marc_leclerc

BTW, we only had general ice axes and no crampons. With ice tools and crampons it would be fairly easyas soon as the tower near the base of the bypass ledges collapses. The only way around that tower is below it and it looks quite unstable. Remember someone was killed on that glacier last year, for the most part it isnt bad but onve you get into the seracs near the back of the glacier be very careful, we had our misadventure because we were not willing to back track around the tower at the back of the glacier, either wait for it to collapse or wait for the glacier to slide.

Pocket clacier is sui-fucking-cidal right now... we had seracs collapsing every few minutes and many crevasses to be navigated. WE ended up having to finish the crossing becuase is would be dangerous to go back but you should wait a while because it is very dangerous right now. BTW we made some bivy ledges part way up but got fogged in the next day, had an epic getting off the mountain, ended up leaving half my rope on the mountain cuz we had to rap to the north glacier as the pocket glacier couldnt be descended.. will post TR

Beckey route on liberty bell and Cave route on Concord Tower both look like great moderate climbs. Does your bro lead 5.8/9 or follow? And slab runouts are not scary... not like runouts on big steep walls. If you take a whipper on a slab you sort of just slide until your hands hurt then backpedal until you stop... no big deal.

Has the pocket glacier conditions changed much from these pictures? How would the crossing to the bypass ramps be?

Trip: Lady Peak - South East Ridge Date: 7/12/2008 Trip Report: Me and my Dad met up with some other Hikers and scramblers at Vedder Crossing and we all drove up to the Cheam Peak trailhead and started the trail to cheam. We stayed together as a group until Me and my Dad headed right up the slopes of Lady Peak. We followed the snow patches until we were near the base of the cliffs and headed south towards Point 6800, where Laughington Ridge meets the Lady/Knight col. I had done this traverse before without snow and it took about 1/2 hour but because it was covered in steep mushy snow we belayed a couple exposed sections. We eventually headed up to the ridge between Lady and the small spire just SE of the mountain. We had some water here and then started Simul-Climbing up the ridge, it was all 3rd and 4th class with occasional 5th class steps. The rock was loose but the climbing was fairly enjoyable until we arrived at the edge of a steep exposed notch. All the rock was crap, the boulders were loose and we couldnt find a spot to safely rap into the notch. I tried to free climb it but it was quite steep (even a bit overhanging in spots) and would have been very dangerous to downclimb. We eventually managed to sling a somewhat dependable boulder and I backed it up with a single tied off nut. Luckily it held us and we both survided the exposed rap into the notch. Climbing out of the notch was harder than I expected. It was 5.7-8 with sloper holds and no protection (one cam 5 ft above the boulders at the base - crux moves 20ft above the cam) I managed to lead it all right and my Dad followed it, nearly as scared as I was leading! Once we made it out of the notch it was easy scrambling to the summit. We put away all our gear, had a drink and walked down the standard route. I wouldn't reccommend this route as the rock is bad and it is scetchy in spots but I would do it again only if I was doing the entire Cheam Range Traverse. The crux is in the notch and it is quite exposed and the rock is pretty rotten. The only reason I wanted to do this was because I had backed out of traversing this peak from the NW because I couldnt comfortably downclimb the crux. There was no sign of other parties leaving slings and such on the ridge. I don't think this route is often climbed. Route up = red Route Down = green Gear Notes: A few cams - all the common sizes, fingers to hands. a set of nuts and a light rope. Approach Notes: Head up west slopes of Lady shortly after Spoon Lake, traverse exposed gullies towards pt 6800 to base of ridge.

wow... evolution working backwards... no offence if you rockfall near victims are on this forum

seriously.. in the last pic he looks just like Cedar Wright....

has anybody ever told you that you look like Cedar Wright?

dang.. that looks like a super tough route! I've got to try that sometime, thanks for the TR and Topo guys.

Holy Crap... a 500 ft fall down a steep choss gulley. Im glad everybody is okay.

Still looks fun.. I dont care if it is an FA or not... I also wouldnt mind trying the South Pillar of Rexford's False Summit.... as long as I can climb that 5.11 crack... if I fall off too much I could always aid it.. but thats not my style

Hey Dru... last time I went up the trail there I saw some cool looking lines on the cliff above the trail. What do you think about climbing putting up a route on that??? It looked pretty fun when I was looking at it.

Breaking down climbs helps me a lot too. Instead of being like 'OMG its goiung to take 3 hours to slog up this cree slope', think, 'OK I can get to that rock in 10 minutes' that helps . Joe Simpson talks about this thinking when he was crawling out from Suila Grande with a broken leg...

Crossover descent would be soooo easy right now with the snow. I was checking it out a few weeks ago when I did crossover

Karakoram???? Alaska

I am seriously confused about why a handcrack is called 'thin fingers' I didnt see much finger jammin happening in the vid..

Labour Days looks pretty good but expect it to be sandbagged. I think the guide says 5.5 or 5.6 but I heard there is some 5.7 crack climbing. Its about the same size as the Nesakwatch Spires so it shouldnt be too long. Another option is to do the SE ridge of Crossover's East Peak... I posted a TR on it a few weeks ago. Its a bit easy though, about the same as North Nesawkatch Spire. I personally think it would be nicer to stay at the Rexford Bivi site and climbing the SW ridge of the north spire. Its about 5.9 and Ithink it has 6 or 7 technical pitches, looks like a super good line.

thats a sweet line... i think its funny that its called 'thin fingers' when it looks mostly like a hand crack

stop arguing and just climb at Squamish...

HZu1KXubB1g&feature=related Joe Perry/Brad Whitford/ Aerosmith rock!

Joe Perry of Aerosmith - love the style he plays, interesting slides and stuff with cool melodies and rythm. You dot realize just how good he is until you try to play one of his solos!

shut your fucking fucks you fucked up fucking fuckers! Why the fuck do you have to fucking say the fucking 'fuck' word so fucking much you dumb fucks. All the stupid fucking shitty ass swear words you fucking guys fucking say fucking piss me off!

60 degree overhangs are the best walls in the world! good work out, challenging routes, builds core strength and is much longer than a vertical wall.

BTW.. that was a fun looking solo.. whats the grade?

Yeah, Im glad I'm 15.... but seriously, when I was 11 I was climbing 5.12+ and 5.13 indoors and regularily flashing gym 5.12s.. I went outside and almost shit my pants on a well protected 5.10c and couldnt crack climb 5.9