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marc_leclerc
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Everything posted by marc_leclerc
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That would be interesting to know.. I'm making plans for it and Im 15.. its probably been done by someone younger though... I wonder what the youngest ascent of Slesse's NEB is?
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Stand close to the wall.. when the rope begins to come tight on your partner after he/she falls do a little hop and let yourself get pulled off the ground a couple feet. This makes for a soft catch for your partner and less swing into the wall. This is only for single pitch sport routes
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Trip: Stewart Peak Area - Date: 6/21/2008 Trip Report: So today me and a couple friends went to the area SE of Stewart Peak (cheam range) between Stewart and the Still. It was pretty fun until we saw the ugly weather moving in and turned around. I did get to scope out the routes on the N and NE aspects of Stewart Peak though and the North Butress looks like it could be good. With an easy approach on the deactivated road it took about 1 hour to the end of the road and another hour and a half to the base of the climbs, It will take longer with gear for the climb. Ill post the pics when I get them. Approach Notes: Drive Jones Lake Road towards South end of lake until the part where the bridge is gone.. cross sketchy plants and crap over the river of bring a canoe and paddle accross (recommended) Walk Road after bridge and take first Left, follow this to fork and go right. Where this road forks take the upper spur to countour around Stewart towards the Still or take lower fork to get closer to N face routes. There is some alder getting into the basin below the mountain but if you are smart you can avoid a lot of it.
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[TR] Nicolum Knob - Many 6/19/2008
marc_leclerc replied to marc_leclerc's topic in British Columbia/Canada
Yeah.. i want to try Kemo Sabe too -
[TR] Nicolum Knob - Many 6/19/2008
marc_leclerc replied to marc_leclerc's topic in British Columbia/Canada
Hope.. where Highway #3 and #5 split -
when I watched Behind Enemy Lines 2 I thought I saw some sweet rock...
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problem with soloing around here is alot of the climbs ar insecure slab climbs and most face climbs are above 5.10 wich I admit is too scary for me to solo at the moment
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Trip: Nicolum Knob - Many Date: 6/19/2008 Trip Report: I went to Nicolum Knob today with my girlfriend, Tamara. We climbed: First Blood(5.6) (was dirty but I cleaned it really well) Dead Soles (5.10c), Kyle Hudie Route (5.11a) and Land Down Under (5.10a). All the routes were nice and Dead Soles was a tricky on-sight with a weird crux low down. The trail is still nice and the routes are all clean. I also tried Life on a Chain (12a) and almost got through the hard part to where the crack widens and eases off on my first attempt.. then I took a whipper back to the first bolt and was too pumped out to try again.. its hard... I hope whoever is trying to get the FA does it soon cuz I want to go back and lead it clean. I also did an easy but super fun boulder problem on the way out.. But basically, all the routes are in good shape and the trail is pretty good. Go there! Gear Notes: Gear to about 3 inches is plenty for most routes.. go heavy on the Finger Sizes Approach Notes: Trail past Hubcaps and throught forest.
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Yosemite Mountaineering Fatality Report Posted
marc_leclerc replied to knightrain's topic in Climber's Board
I hear many stories like this... its even more 'neck hair bristling' when they drift back to life and talk about the bright lights... very strange indeed -
Yosemite Mountaineering Fatality Report Posted
marc_leclerc replied to knightrain's topic in Climber's Board
Very weird how he saw a bright light as he died... a truly sad account -
Report Posted: Top-Rope Accident, Yosemite, 2007
marc_leclerc replied to knightrain's topic in Climber's Board
damn good partner to run underneath a falling climber and break his fall with your body -
I solo easy stuff... 5.6 around Its a lot of fun
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the pocket glacier is still sending loads of ice and crap down the approach and as you can see in the pic theres a lot of snow on the bivi ledges.. otherwise it looks pretty dry
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Trip: Crossover Peak - East Summit - Southeast Ridge Date: 6/15/2008 Trip Report: After bailing from Hozameen because of lots of snow on the trail and a super late start nine other BCMC members and myself decided to camp in Chilliwack, picking up my rock gear on the way, and climb crossover on Sunday. We were going to camp at thr riverside campground at the start of Nesakwatch road but Jos offered to let us camp behind his house when we called to invite him along (he ended up going to vancouver intead though) After a late night chatting and hanging out we all got up at 5:00 and headed out. We drove up Nesakwatch creek to about 10 min from the Slesse Memorial Trailhead and started off. The trail was pretty nice, without too much brush on the old road, and we got the group up to the plaque in about an hour. From the memorial plaque we headed down accross the creek and started bushwacking up the old growth towards Crossover's East Peak. As we climbed the snow got less patchy and much nicer until we finally broke out of the treeas onto the neverending snowlope below crossover. We kicked steps up and over several bumps and our goal slowly got closer and closer until, after a bit of a slog, we were all at the base of the route! yay! We decided to split into two rope teams and we would all simul-climb the entire route. I grabbed the small rack and started leading up the ridge. The climbing was a lot like North Nesakwatch Spire but more fun and continous.. less walking and boring stuff. The ridge got steeper as we continued and the climbing got even more fun. I could have climbed easy ramps right of the crest but I took a direct and exposed route up the crest, placing pro every 50-75 ft.. sometimes I didnt place anything for a really long time but the climbing was easy and fun. The group moved really quickly up the ridge and I soon found myself finding a way around the big summit block. I walked around and pulled my self on top of the block and the team all took turns standing on the summit. The register showed that the peak was not oft' ascended and only a few parties had been up there. After descending down the west ridge and rapping back onto the snow the party split up. Me and four other climbers started traversing the steep snowslopes over to the west peak of Crossover. One of the four climbers turned back as the climbing looked fairly steep and we weren't planning on roping up. We climbed a steep gulley up towards the ridge but the rock wasnt great, it was a bit late and we didnt feel like downclimbing much so we sdescended back to the snow and glissaded/ran all the way down to the forest. A quick downhill bushwack brought us back to the road/trail and we eventually were back at the cars at the base. The entire trip took about 10 hours with the group and the climb was a great start to the alpine rock season. Plus I got to get a good look at one of my next goals.... Slesse's famous North East Butress. Over all the route was an enjoyable and easy route, a lot of fun, and is located in an amazing area. All the gear you need is a few cams to hand size, a few runners and maybe 5 mid-large stoppers ... the climbing is quite easy and any challenges can be bypassed on the right. I would solo it for sure... Slogging up snowslopes to our goal Climbing up with Crossover in sight Our route is right in the middle of the mountain, facing the camera Looking down to Nesakwatch Creek Nearly at the base of the route Getting onto the ridge Me getting ready to lead up the ridge Climbing the ridge, I can be seen up the ridge on the crest Typical climbing, somewhat steep, low-5th class Me on the summit in the yellow helmet, Lief beside me also on the peak Me on top of Crossover East Peak Me and Dan on the summit West Peak of Crossover, we climbed the obvious snow gully and the rock for a while before turning around. Traversing snow Me and Slesse
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I took my ice axes and randomly started climbing a telephone pole in town... the cops came and arrested me,
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ouch! thanks for sharing...
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Im in a similar position as Braydon, I am working evenings but I will be free to climb lots around CHilliwack and maybe Squamish a few times. I lead trad to 5.10+ and I sport climb around 5.12a/b I know nothing about glacier travel but im confortable on steep snow and ice WI4+
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I like singing 'come on feel the noize' 'rock you like a hurricane' when im on cliffs but the all time panic song for me is 'you shook me all night long'
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that made my day... im going to put a banana in my ear to forget exams tomorrow
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What is bought by the yard and worn by the foot?
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Escalator was very close... the answer is stairs
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What goes up and down at the same time? Figure that one out.. its easier