spionin

i agree - a discussion among the climbing parties is very important prior to posting, and definitely shows tact and consideration. however, on this forum we rely on posters' objective, honest, and complete representation of the climb. this site isn't exactly a peer-reviewed publication - the trip reports aren't curated and data isn't verified. therefore, an accurate report is all we can hope for when reading. to me, the trip reports serve three main purposes: 1) data on route (i wouldn't want to be mislead when following beta presented here), 2) information about potential climbing partners (i wouldn't want to be mislead about someone's ability if, say, zloi contacted me and asked me to go climbing), 3) and entertainment value and stoke for the lucky climbers who get to have the good times. this particular report gives a lot of great info. it was made publically available by choice. ed has a question that doesn't seem all that unreasonable to me - most people chime in when their partners put up climbing trip reports, and "stfu" isn't really the most polite (tactful, considerate - see above) of responses.

1) why isn't this a forum to discuss climbing safety? why isn't it relevant, all of a sudden? 2) not all eastern europeans are crazy/reckless/suicidal/etc. let's not get into nationalistic typing. 3) i may be wrong and you did actually mean slovaks, but i'm pretty sure that most of people steve climbs with are from slovenia, not slovakia.

wow, really loved reading this one! beautiful photo, very unusual.

right on, val! great climb!

woo-hoo! what an awesome place! got my ass kicked on a sweet 5.6 called shockley's ceiling (and more) this weekend. here's a historical picture (yes, dick williams is naked on it) of the crux move.

nice pictures, and good to see that you guys made it back down. why zero love for the skier who fetched the rangers for ya? edit: cool.

great work! love the stoke in your report!

yeah - when i was looking for value options for the burgundy and chablis (pernod is not even a wine), i was rather disappointed. couldn't they have called one of the spires franzia or carlo rossi? or at least something that comes in a two-buck-chuck option at trader joe's? i like where this "lost and found" thread has veered off to

TR: doug and i took a little drinking/camping trip up to the wine spires by dragging a bottle of burgundy and bottle of chianti up there. we climbed a little (on burgundy and chianti SHA-HAH!), but it was so hard, and drinking was so much more fun that we just stuck with that for the sake of continued enjoyment of the trip. the end.

no problem! hey, i never got your p.m., but sent one to you.

how appropriate! i brought a little vodka bottle to our ascent of borah last year, and doug and i dragged a bottle of burgundy and a bottle chianti to... burgundy and chianti peaks in north cascades a few weeks ago. cheers!

wow, some scramble! awesome! and nice to meet you, mark - have a good rest of your week in the PNW!

don't get me wrong - i agree with most of what he wrote. i mostly agree with previous posters about the sugar statements, exercise, etc. the assertion of reasons for vegan diet (combination of ethical/spiritual/mental factors that go beyond "I want to lose weight/have ripped abs/climb ----/etc") is not necessarily true for everyone. there's a pretty strong physical component to this lifestyle. i just think it's possible that some individuals eat the way they do because they happen to truly like it, because it just happens to actually work for them - even if it looks like deprivation, or "bizarre" or "radically exclusive" to some. sorry for the tangent.

awesome. thanks for the condish update.

i wonder what he means by "radical exclusion". i think the extent of "radical", and what we may consider essential for ourselves may mean different things to different people. i think the pedantic, critical, and prescriptive approach here is inappropriate. in a previous thread (i think it may have started with a question about post-exercise nutrition or something), dean karnazes's diet was used as an example of not discriminating (and practically inhaling ham pizzas on the run). my personal favorite example of an elite athlete who excludes a whole category foods is scott jurek. arguably a much more accomplished ultramarathoner than karnazes, and a vegan. many people would probably consider his diet "radically exclusive", even nytimes called his diet "extreme", but i think it'd be hard to argue that it doesn't work for him. just an example. it's not a "bizarre diet", as gadd puts it. but i think that the laissez-faire approach that's advocated here seems somewhat mocking of those for whom mainstream meat and potatoes diet is not right.

susan chan (i think that's the name on it) - i have your nut tool. let me know if you want it back!

totally agree with above comments. we had a party of two last august, and simuled with a 30-m glacier rope (essentially putting the same length of rope between us as a doubled over 60m, as gene suggests), 3 screws. i used two aztar tools, my partner had a quark and a c.a.m.p. corsa nanotech (ultralight axe), and we both loved our respective setups. good luck!

climbing partner as a bird feeder? nice report and outstanding photos!

unbelievable. amazing!

i'd be surprised if the fluxring was made out of titanium (since it's a very poor heat conductor, and its purpose would be to transfer and disperse the heat from the source, it'd be extremely inefficient). i'm guessing it's aluminum, just like in the regular setup. from the description it sounds like the cup is made of titanium. i'm not sure what the heat transfer coefficient of Al->Ti is, but i wonder if cranking the heat up too high fried the aluminum and the plastic just by the virtue of them being available heat sinks. and since titanium doesn't distribute the heat uniformly, maybe having heated up a small spot due to the tilt has caused the water to evaporate rapidly, and scorched the snow. did the bottom of the cup warp? if the Ti cup was allowed to fry dry, it'd be bluish (oxidized) and likely warped. was this on the first go? p.s. as noted above - don't place your fuel container directly on the snow, it'll make things more efficient. p.p.s. was confused looking at the picture at first, then realized that it's upside-down.

hmm... i'm pretty sure from your pictures, and the recent entry in the rainier climbing blog that the ice was set to "kill" mode this weekend.

wow - amazing photos and vid, miss hazard

wow - awesome pictures, everyone! alpine - stuart range, wa ice - pre-dawn, reaching for a screw. cirrus mt, canada. bouldering - going totally core in richland, wa. (photo taken by my mom) cragging - val zephyr sends at banks lake, wa scenic - mt baker, wa skiing - standard fare. paradise, wa

nice! safe! much better style than the prior weekend.

...blue sky and white snow should complete the color requirements happy upcoming birthday zman!