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cbcbd

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Everything posted by cbcbd

  1. Sounds like a pretty recent update: "Gated and closed at mile 20, Eldorado Creek, 3 miles before the end of the road. Road is paved to ~ mile 10, then gravel with some potholes and washboards, but generally drivable for low clearance vehicles. Not suitable for large RVs due to steep and narrow sections and some sharp switchbacks. Please drive SLOWLY, road is narrow. Newly fallen trees may also block the road on occasion. As of Jan 6, rockslide blocks road at ~mile 12 (Hard Creek Bridge)." http://www.nps.gov/noca/planyourvisit/road-conditions.htm
  2. Nice string, looks like an awesome time!!
  3. Excellent, looks like an awesome time!!
  4. I was born in Rio, which is just outside of Olympia, so my birth cert was no good, but they did accept my work shirt which has my first name and last initial
  5. btw, if you have a birth certificate you can get in/out of CA. I was just in Canada around thanksgiving and used my expired passport. All they need is proof of citizenship.
  6. Lol, so are they classics or not? Ames ice hose just looks like an awesome climb. Nice work
  7. Best $5 bucks I've ever spent!! Coconut trees, ice sheets... same thing, different season. and at least monkeys aren't trying to jump on your face on the ice
  8. My friend Kevin's pic on the north face.
  9. Trip: Banks Lake ice with ropegunning wife - various Date: 12/11/2010 Trip Report: A week ago I tied the knot with the decision to secure myself a partner for life. Now a week later I tie a different knot. We both love ice, had never climbed WI together, so on Sat, 12/11, we finally got the chance to test our new marriage against some icicles!! Banks was looking promising so we drove up late from Seattle on Friday and slept in the Osborn bay Fish and Wildlife camping area (none of those climbs are in). Sat we got a lazy start, overcast, temps around 34 degrees in the morning, and headed to the Devil's punchbowl area. Lots of big ice debris below many of the climbs although we didn't see anything big coming down during the day. Trotsky's folly looked delaminated at the top and ready topple so we skipped it and headed up to start with Trotsky's Revenge. The wife asked me if she could have the first lead of the day. Now, I might be new to this but I know you should not be arguing with the wife. Gotta please the woman! The topout was a little hollow, but doable. The chimneying was great fun! At that time we saw two cc.com allstars coming up - John Plotz (telemarker)and Kyle Flick. They hopped on the punchbowl while we finished off Revenge. We chit-chatted and swaped climbs, running up punchbowl before the last remaining icicle falls off. Feeling good we finished off, waved adieu to Plotz and Flick, and headed over to Pee Wee's. We beeline to the right flow, which is the better looking one of the area. It's steep but the blobs, previous traffic, and thankfully short length (we just doubled up our 70m half rope), made it doable for me with much shaking out Pretty tied up When V runs up it I'm getting antsy to get off this flow since every small kick or swing she makes just reverberates all the way up the climb, reminding one that ice is a temporary ever-changing medium Very happy with our pump we packed up and headed a little north to complete the day with huge plates of delicious Mexican food at La Presa. Here's looking to future climbs and following some hard stuff my wife puts up for me!!
  10. These are some features I've seen jackets employ that I'm a fan of: -Outside side pockets that are high enough so they are not in the way of your harness. -Waist not too long but long enough to go below your harness waist line and not ride up above the harness when stretched out. -Minimal bunching below the waist to avoid interferring with gear. -Thick Schoeller softshell material. I believe my jacket has Schoeller 400 (I can't get to their site now so I can't check to see if this still exists in this name). It's not too thick that it restricts movement but not too thin so it adds a little bit of warmth. It's pretty thick Schoeller so it is very water resistant. New features I would like to see: -What I've seen done in one jacket (although it was a ski jacket) that was pretty neat was a 2 cuff system. On the inside end of the cuff shell there was an added fleece/synthetic cuff stitched to the inside sleeve, about 2" long that had the thumb hole. This way you would seal off the sleeve from the elements and keep the sleeve from riding down but still have the protection of the outer shell all the way to the wrist. The outer shell had a velcro closure to tighten it. -Talking of cuffs, one thing I would like to see would be a simple bunge cinching system for the end of the cuff. Every velcro cuff I've used just becomes useless after some time. -Something I've never seen before but might be interesting to implement on a jacket would be something similar to a draft collar on a sleeping bag. If you're not familiar with those, what many manufacturers include on cold weather sleeping bags is a cinchable insulated cuff inside the sleeping bag at neck level. When you zip up the sleeping bag you can close off this insulated cuff (usually with a velcro flap) and cinch this around your neck. The idea is to isolate your lower body from the gaping hole that is made by the face area of the hood of the sleeping bag. This way the heat generated by your body is kept inside the sleeping bag and doesn't escape up past your shoulders and out the hood. I wonder if putting a fleece collar in the neck area of the jacket that would sort of bunch up around your neck when the jacket was fully zipped would add to the general warmth of the jacket. I know I have definitively felt a cold draft down my chest from air rushing in from the top. It would at least give you a chance to remove ice debris that falls in your jacket through the collar, before it made it's way to your abdomen or back
  11. Nice! None of that AI stuff? I think the only thing this TR is missing is a reference to the ice rating from a Cody WI perspective
  12. That looks awesome, good on you dudes!
  13. Haven't tried, but you could try to get in touch with this guy: Last winter when skiing Colchuck glacier we saw a dude who speedflew from near the top of the glacier to the lake. Looked very cool!
  14. Agree with the looseness, but it wouldn't keep me from recommending the route to someone. Sure, some pitches were scary loose, but the climbing is never too hard and it has it's fun moments (like the hand crack slight overhang pitch). After doing it I better understood why the guidebook says that some people just do the first couple pitches and rap off with double ropes. Still, I enjoyed doing the whole route, looseness included. What I found odd about the summit of goose egg was the fact that not only were there loose blocks, but unlike other talus I've come across, this talus was not settled like what you would see in a rock gully. The blocks up there seemed almost placed in a way that whatever you touched, moved and slid. If the area had a good earthquake I believe it would make the climb 3x safer
  15. Still looking. Either days alone also work, thurs preferable.
  16. Weather is looking to be pretty good next week and I'd love to get out in the alpine or semi alpine rock. Stuart range, enchantments, WA pass. Pm me Doug
  17. A friend of mine had both of his replaced. He guides rock in the Summer and is ski patrol and instructor in the Winter. Said his skiing got a lot better (compared to before the surgery).
  18. Tues forecast is looking ok for some east side venues. I'd like to get out both days but tuesday only would also work. Thinking SCW or Tieton's goose egg.
  19. Beta for a car-to-car... hmmm... Leave your sleeping bag, stove, and tent behind. Finish that day. The early bird gets the worm. Leave the rope (or at least take a short one) behind - if you see a hole just don't step in it. Don't take too much water from the car, you can usually find a trickle higher up on route to refuel. Save weight on food, eat marmots. Coleman-Deming or Easton will be as technical and as fun. IMO the views from the CD are better. Do it now before the days get shorter.
  20. Trip: Mt Baker - North Face climb, Coleman-Deming ski Date: 8/1/2010 Trip Report: V and I were tossing around ideas for the weekend and finally decided that we'd tick off the N Ridge but make the endeavor a little more enjoyable and take some skis with us for the way down. The end result was a supermaxed, relaxed, chillaxed, hootenanny of a day. We kicked it off at the poor man's TH (before the forest pass sign) at 2:30am, fudged the approach and ended right next to the seracs, took a leisurely stroll across the Coleman glacier, and got to the 'shrund at a "good enough" 9:20am. Steps were pre-kicked by groups ahead and so we rejoiced and were at the base of the ice at 11ish. V had spent numerous hours sharpening her tools in anticipation of bulletproof dinner-platiness paradise and instead found some AIfun-times. We pulled the rope out for about 250' of this goodness. Some more walking and you can see the summit bosom. We get there about 1:30pm and the summit was as small and pimply as I remembered. We were looking forward to sliding the fark out of there and other climbers walking down wished they were as cool as we were. All they had were lots of plunge-stepping to look forward to. We took it easy and made it back to our sneakers at 4ish, back at the car at 6pm. One word to describe the day - SICK AND EPIC!! Is this the CD? These dudes are the dots: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=971636 Delightful The hills are alive with the sound of "Man, I'm freaking tired. Let's get some food" Gear Notes: 3 screws Approach Notes: Keep an eye for the sign that points to climber's trail. Go there and not to the Glacier vista.
  21. Nice work, Bram! Good to see you on the cc
  22. I'm glad you got on the big one!
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