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Skinniest setup I've used is 8mm with a 5mm. The knot does walk but I have not tested exactly how much it can walk, for obvious reasons. No issues with my Petzl Reverso. Most cases you can setup the rap so the knot jams at the rappel anchor point preventing it from moving, with the knot on the skinny-rope side. If you're rapping off chains it will jam easy, if you're making your own anchor just tie a small anchor point (overhand on a bight) with the sling. With V-threads on ice I just thread the ropes through it and the knot jams against the screw hole naturally. The biggest issue with skinny ropes is tangling. Excellent rope management is a must unless you want to waste a lot of time undoing a rat's nest.

Nice work, bud!!!

That line is an affirmation of the term "aesthetic"!! Wow!

Cool pic through the scope!

Nastia, nice job realizing this one!!

Hope you guys brought extra SPF juice for this one. Ouch

This TR blows my mind! Awesome stuff Tim

Have had the spot for a while. Like it a lot.

No matter how much I have tried in the past I have never seen a pattern in ice fall. One of the biggest seracs I saw fall happened overnight on Adams, where nothing collapsed during the middle of the previous sunny warm day. Looks like lots of debris kept falling off the cleaver during the weekend, with big events happening at different times during the day. I personally could never rationalize crossing under the Nisqually Cleaver/Ice fall after it saw (and personally seeing) a series of the biggest rock/ice fall events in a long time. Looks like you guys have some serious higher power on your side.

daaamn!

Incredible video! We also saw a big brown cloud from rock/ice fall at the Nisqually cleaver around noon on Monday. Pretty dangerous weekend. Mito, did you guys climb the icefall after seeing this rock/ice fall?

Hard to beat the last post Alpine: Dan S. takes a break on Gib Ledges, Rainier, WA Cragging: Aaron Z reaches for the end of the rainbow on Infite Bliss, Mt Garfield, WA Scenic: Resting in the presence of the illustrious Staubbach falls, Lauterbrunnen, Switzerland Skiing: Austin enjoys one of the many bowls at the plateau-like Mont Albert, Parc national de la Gaspésie, Quebec, Canada Ice: Jesse S. and the ice complete each other in photographic synergy. This House of Sky, The Ghost, Alberta, Canada Humor: Troy and Veronika avoid the strike of the elusive tarn shark. Unknown location, Mt Baker, WA

Cool stuff Tim and Jason! Really dig all the pics, 4th from last is pretty cool. You gotta keep that dog on a leash, he's a wild one

What a grim year it's been condolences to friends and family.

Route look dry now! Again, nice work on saving the healthcare system some money

bad ass!

That looks like it's taken just South from the end of the Cowlitz cleaver, near the notch between it and Gib rock. This "notch" is where in the pic below the line goes from solid to dashed and is basically where you leave the Cowlitz side (pic 2) and drop to the Nisqually side (pic 1) of the cleaver. The solid line in pic2 is the dashed line in pic 1. From a different angle: Looks like the photographer was standing to the R of the rocky point on the R edge of the pic below, taking a pic toward the climber. The "notch" I keep talking about would be to the L of this rocky point and this is where the cleaver meets Gib rock.

No sketchfest. Pro was all there, just had to dig for it. Is this an open invitation for Yocum? Is this your best presentation for me? Gotta work on those marketing skills Did a linkcam treat you wrong in the past or something? You know they don't work that well on rime, right? Hey, it only happened if you have the pics to prove it. You can PM me those... <3 Save your bacon and you give me pepperoni. I think it's a fair trade. Gotta keep you alive, I need tolerant belayers who won't be weirded out by my language when I'm... struggling.

Trip: Stuart - Stuart Glacier Couloir FBA Date: 6/6/2011 Trip Report: Did a samba on the summit of Stuart celebrating what I believe is the First Brazilian Ascent of the route. Any other Brazilians who can claim this title please let me know and I'll give you due credit on this TR after a round of caipirinhas. Zman, the ever gracious friend, agreed to repeat this route with me so I could enjoy it for my selfish reasons. Cover still good, the 'shrund crossing was just doable on the right rocks, couloir is mostly snow with a few swinging AI 70deg sticks at the constriction. The upper W ridge ended up having more snow than we expected. Sloppy snow, or just warmed up rime. This was no issue until the 6th or so pitch where a corner crack required a lot of cleaning from snow and unusable ice. Lots of aiding, jackets filling with water, soaking wet gloves/boots/spirits, and lost time followed. After much swearing and exasperation we got through it and Z was able to follow it free. Z ran the last pitch and we simuled the rest to the top in great weather. Some Brahmas appeared and after a quick toast to the great Pelé we were off. I didn't bring my flag but I figured my green jacket/yellow backpack combo should represent my Carioca pride. And guess who's b-day is coming up, and what unexpected gift just showed up at my feet in the woods? Meant to be. lots of pics: Gear Notes: 30m rope ice screw, 2 bugaboos, nuts, 3 tricams, cams - 0 C3/.2/.5/.75/#2 linkcam Approach Notes: Most snow found was in Mountaineer's drainage. We had snowshoes and used them for that stretch.

Sheesh! But is it really a successful climbing trip if it's not concluded with a post trip to the ER? Pretty cool bivy spot! minus the wall of shedding ice above

On which pitch? 1st pitch. Must've been when the Jello Tower toppled over in the beginning of April, during the mudslide events in the Tumwater and Icicle. Related to that, SF of Jello Tower felt like a Gunks 5.7 to me when I first climbed it, having just come from the EC.

A couple weeks ago I headed in there with mtn bikes. We biked the extra mile of icicle road, got onto the forest road and then pushed the bikes the rest up the hill to 1/4mi before 8 mile TH, so about 1.25mi from stuart lake TH. From there on there was too much snow back then to ride the bikes. Could possibly be more melted out now = more biking. Sure it took about 2hrs from car to TH with the bike pushing/stashing but the ride down was awesome, much like taking skis up the road in the winter. The Sherpa was all snow and in great conditions. Bergshrund easily passable on climber's L (two weeks ago). Go!

Hmm... didn't the site use to accept full size files? Anyway, here it is somewhere else: And a sideways pic of part of NW face of Dragontail.

Lol, of course. I'll try to get those out later today. Looked melty and the LK memorial crux wasn't in.