cbcbd

Good article touching on the mental aspect and some tips to help calm the mind: http://neice.com/2007/TechTips/Inpractice2_ScottB.html

RIP Ryan and my thoughts go out to his family and loved ones.

Of course it helps to get oneself fit for a specific activity. It doesn't hurt to be stronger, leaner, and fitter. I just think that climbing, especially ice, is very much about energy conservation. The better you can do that, the longer and steeper you'll be able to climb. And energy conservation comes with technique, skill, and experience. When you learn how to read the ice better to get those good one swing sticks, place your screws more efficiently, find good feet and rests and keeping off your toes as much as possible... that goes a much longer way than fitness. So I say, yes, get stronger. But I still like to approach a climb not as a fit powerhouse (overconfident in my strength), but as a stingy weakling refusing to give too much energy on a climb. A comment I read from a guy who watched Steve House guiding at an NH ice fest last year: "It was amazing to see all the no-hands rests that he would find" All right, all this talk... I need some ice now

Good work, man!

Man, I'm out of shape now but should start getting ready for the ice... ok, just got out the tools (Petzl Nomics) on the pull up bar and... 1)5'8", 170lbs 2)1m30s 3)5 (lame!! I usually try to be ~15 mid season) 4)WI3+, WI4 - South of the Border/Katahdin/Baxter,ME; 3 seasons Pullups don't hurt (especially staggered pull ups) for ice, but I think they are more important for mixed.

I also have and used the Trangos on the DC this past weekend and 3 weekends ago. Although I think boot choice and foot temperature is really personal these boots were awesome and more than enough for the temps. Freezing level 3 weeks ago was at 11k and this past weekend at 14k but with 30mph+ winds. Honestly, I wouldn't expect any of my summit day clothes to keep me warm for 40 minutes of inactivity. As it is, my feet perspire with the lightest of activity. If I had used my Nepal Evos my feet would've chilled themselves cold with sweat.

Lol, I would, but that's my b-day and I'll be out with the gf Hope you get on it, though. Cool mountain. love the adks... -doug

Yes you can use it on static line. Be careful of soft falls with the Grigri - soft falls don't always activate the camming. Always tie a backup knot just in case. You can buy many diameters of static line. I think the popular black Sterling static we used to sell was 11/16" thick and 200m long... or you could buy it by the foot.

U the same chrix on NEice?

Used once, size 1, which means: Size 1 - 52-57cm, 20.5-22.5 in - 285 g, 10.05 oz Blue Comes with the plugs for the vents from the winter kit. Ear covers not included. Retail $99 Asking $50 obo -Doug

Nikwax Tx-Direct spray on. Although I haven't tested it and it makes sense, the wash in does supposedly ruin the breathability.

In the same line... Do your homework with a map/compass before the climb. Take important bearings for your route and write them on the map and on the back of your compass. I tape a piece of "write-in-the-rain" paper to the back of my compass and write down important bearings and elevations. On a nice sunny day you won't even look at it, but if the weather turns bad and visibility to nil you'll have that key info right there. Plus, its nice to have the elevation of certain features so you can recalibrate your altimeter if needed. Yeah, buy an altimeter.

Freezing level has been much higher than Muir and looks like it will be getting much higher from here on. Hiked up with boots on Sat, saw maybe 1 person going up in snowshoes (lol). Crampons not needed, waterproof boots and poles would be nice, especially for the boot glissading down.

alex and waka... sent PMs

Looking to get on it this weekend, 2/3. I've done Baker, Hood, Adams before, new to the area and need to shoot a monkey off my back before its too late. If you'd like to do a credit check to see that I'm legit, PM me and I'll send you my testosteronian credit score. Doug

PM'd

Awesome report and pics... looks gorgeous out there.

I'd pick Fall...late August-mid/end Oct. You get cooler weather, less bugs, trees with fall colors. Haven't climbed too much on Cannon except for the classic, Whitney-Gilman. You can make it harder with the 5.8 and 5.9 variations. That one and Moby Grape are some Cannon must-dos. Gunks is filled with classics... too many to list. Just walk down the carriage road and take your pick. High Exposure is one of the moderate classics - you can pick the 5.8 finish if you need more spice. Others... CCK, Easy O, Drunkard's Delight... Haven't climbed in the ADKs too much except for at Wallface - along with Cannon and Katahdin, one of the NE's biggest walls. I did Diagonal, the classic, but Lewis Elijah looked pretty damn cool on the descent. Acadia is a gorgeous park and there's very accessible climbing at the Otter cliffs, right on the water. On my designated climbing day there it rained... so can't help with specifics. Katahdin is more of a haul, but there's nothing else like it in the NE. There's climbing from Chimney Pond in the South Basin. Didn't do rock there, but climbed excellent ice! Doug

Placing first piece on my first trad lead ever... cleaning out this 2-finger wide horizontal pocket near face level when mouse pops out of it and runs down face and I realize I was digging at his nest... bet he was pissed.

When I was there last year we and everyone else seemed to be camping at a spot around 6500' http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2664048180064115915rWplCU?vhost=good-times Lazy start at around 4:30am and still made it up in time to avoid slush on the way up.

Corn snow would've been too boring... nah, I hear ya... but hey, still beats slogging down.

Wow, gorgeous stuff. Thanks for the excellent writing and pics!

You might as well wait longer anyway and get to go in through Bird Creek Meadows in the reservation - much shorter approach to Sunrise camp and the Mazama that way (and legal). Last year they opened access to the reservation July 1st - we were tempted to cut into the Mazama from Cold Springs a few days before opening but weather made us push it to opening day and I'm glad it did.

On Devil's tower - Soler 5.9 - for a quick 2 pitches to the summit Durrance - the classic El Matador 5.10(a?) - lots of stemming, protection, and spectators We passed through the Black hills quickly, but there is tons of belay-from-your-car climbing along the needles highway. We went into the Cathedral Spires area and got a climb in passing. Both areas awesome... the Black hills are gorgeous.

Wow, that is excellent looking stuff. Thanks for posting!