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Hey, I wish I could afford a heli for all my approaches. As far as style - I think sometimes you just gotta do what you gotta do to get there in time: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=688171 http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=893003

Strong work! The route looks awesome right now... well, at least until yesterday.

I have Verizon and so far I have used it on N side of Rainier, E side of Adams, Ruth, and summit of Maude.

They usually tow when your route gets in condition and it's time to go.

I used my cell-phone to call my mom on her birthday from the edge of the Carbon glacier. There is no way I'd miss that phone call and she wouldn't really understand "can't miss a good weather window" as an excuse.

Yeah, we were on the Burgner-Stanley and topped out just as it was getting dark. There was another party on top who had done the WR waiting for us so we could untie their ropes that were getting stuck on the first anchor. Our rope also got stuck off the first anchor and then stuck for good lower down. Long day, long night, long story

Hey Dan, were you guys the ones with stuck ropes on the summit?

Nice stoke!!!

Vs Killi, for Cotopaxi I think one of the things that doesn't help is that the only hut, used for the normal route, is at 15,700', the parking lot is at 15,100'. If you go right for it, in four days it just makes it hard to "climb high, sleep low". For Killi you have intermediate camps going up. One thing I would try to do would be to, on day one, take the Teleferico to Cruz Loma in Quito and hike the rest of the way to Rucu Pichincha (15,400'). Sleep in Quito that night and then head to the hut on day 2, rest day 3, summit day 4. Could actually work if you acclimatize well. As far as transport goes, we took the bus too far, just passing the park entrance, but just talked to some random local with a pickup about giving us a ride to the hut lot. Worked out pretty well and I'm glad at least one of us knew Spanish Anyway, besides all my ramblings I do hope you find a partner and good luck!

Nice work, very cool!

She's probably had to shave her mustache more than I ever will.

Not trying to be a buzz killer but that sounds like a very short amount of time to acclimatize properly for 19K. Quito is at 9K but even after smaller acclimatization trips and a trip to the Illinizas and Cayambe we had to turn back on Cotopaxi because my friend had serious AMS at around 18K. Of course, its up to the individual, but still, 9K to 19K in four days seems like a hell of a schedule. I'd suggest hitting up the Illinizas.

Devil's? nice!

Nothing against CC, but I'm wondering why you chose to post this question here and not on neclimbs (where many of the local NH guides post) or neice? Anyway, the only note I'd like to discuss is the goggles. Do take some. Yes, they can freeze up, but there are ways of minimizing that which are better than just having your eyes and that sliver of skin exposed. Even a slight twist of the head into the wind can provide some good air circulation in the goggles to keep them from completely freezing. There are many discussions on NE boards about the perfect setup which will not freeze up your goggles - some ideas are don't breathe up, breathe down, don't rest your goggles on your head, wear two neck gaiters... it goes on. Your list of clothes looks fine. I never had any problem with any down in the Whites. It's just nicely cold and crisp. Have a great time up there and don't you be heading out intentionally into 100mph gusts.

"On The Ridge Between Life and Death" - David Roberts - bio "Moments of Doubt" - David Roberts - collection of writings by author "Conquistadors of the Useless" - Lionel Terray - bio "Kiss or Kill" - Mark Twight - collection of writings/bio - very entertaining! "Eiger Dreams" - John Krakauer - collection of writings by author "Touching the Void" - Joe Simpson "Climbing Ice" - Yvon Chouinard - Snow/ice climbing how-to classic! FOTH Books that I felt were lacking but still interesting if you climb: Annapurna - Maurice Herzog - great story but has a disneyland aspect to it. Free Spirit - Messner - the guy did awesome things and that inspires, but the personal side of it is very dry and curt.

Yep, kev, you're right. I was thinking of the XLC Nanotechs, not the Vector Nanotechs.

One shouldn't need ice tools for the Emmons route - it just doesn't get that steep for "piolet traction". Honestly, if the glacier is pure ice then it is probably very dry. If it is very dry then crevasses should be visible and obvious. If they are visible and obvious then you shouldn't be falling into one by surprise. If you are feeling uncomfortable on the icy terrain I would recommend more crampon practice and possibly try some ice climbing. I find that a lot of people place too much emphasis on practicing self-arrest and not enough on just good crampon technique.

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Unless it is pure snow I like to carry 2 screws, a shorty and a longer for making v-threads. You take whatever pro is appropriate for the conditions. I'm guessing the top half of Rainier would've taken pickets right now. Alpine start - probably true, and you can have rock/ice fall happen at night during the coldest of times when water and ice are expanding, but I'd rather start early to give myself plenty of daylight usage - winter days are much shorter and I'd rather start in the dark than finish in the dark. Plus, you want to get out before the bar closes.

Hey Dan, Aaron and I did Mesahchie last fall around the same time http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=845279 The route was in great condition and a lot of mixed fun - nice chossy sidehilling, easy minor glacier travel, some easy ice climbing through the ice fall, enjoyable moderate couloir, and then from then on almost continuous snow on all the gullies that you get into, with interspersed rock steps. Great route and I doubt you'll see anyone near the area. And good on ya for showing an outsider something other than the volcanoes. Tired of hearing "Rainier this", "Baker that...", "I wanna climb Hood by any route, don't care..."... sigh. If you do go take some pics of the 'beard's NF, eh?

NE face of Eldorado, Mesahchie was excellent last year... Look for north facing things that just need a little bit of snow. Up to this weekend the snow line was at about 4K', but it is supposed to warm up this week to freezing levels above 10K', so hold off on fall for some.

One addition easily picked out and emphasized would be the Twin Sisters. About the dot near Buckner - Looking at the area topo, it looks like that is Booker Mountain. Again, thanks! Awesome effort, this is coming out very nice!

Second on the camping. Its right next to the train tracks on the East side, North from the station. There is also a campground in Tasch, the last town you can drive to to get a train in to Zermatt - a little nicer ambience and a little cheaper, if I remember correctly. A good option for a first night or last night on the way out.

Maybe these guys? http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/910984/Re_Rap_off_S_side_of_Dragontai#Post910825

All they need now is a few more thousand to get something like this with extendo legs: