cbcbd

Looking to get on something this weekend... could be one of these things or something else: -Forbidden West Ridge - i know the snow gully is out. I'd like to do this as a 2-day unless you've done the climb before and we could use that knowledge to not get lost and be more efficient. -dry rock in the East somewhere? Leavenworth? Vantage? -climb something icy - could check out Colfax (but maybe better next week), Crazy mtn looks good, any others? I lead weak rock (5.7s in the Gunks, apparently around here I can lead 5.8s), ice up to 4 but might like an easier warmup to the season... or not. Doug

Lots of new boots this year. BD has their new line, which I've heard good things about, and Garmont came out with the Axons, which are supposedly a do-it all sorta boot. What kinda weight boot are you looking for? Aren't the G-rides the same as the mega-rides as far as stiffness? As far as skis... I love my BD Havocs and know lots of folk here like the K2 Shuksans and Baker.

I have the Spot and it is great. Between the PT Apex (also the Pro) and the BD Icon go for the PT. Even though both are advertised as 3W, only the PT puts out that much power - actually, 4W. The Icon only puts out 1.7W.

I don't know what's going to be in, but if you're heading up let me know

Lol, nice demographic summary Honestly, I know my vote is not going to her and I don't like her BS style. She didn't bomb at the debates and had no substance. It is sad that her standard was set so low that people are happy that she was able to throw out at least one possibly correct figure about something. It is obvious that she has not gone through the ranks to get where she is - I liken it to a software project manager who has never been a junior programmer. You do a much better job when you know what the ones "below" you are talking about. But I do think I know how she got and keeps her job. She is extremely personable with that small town/tv sportscaster wit and charm, is a delegator and an administrator - she is good at telling others what to do and using her darn to goodness sweet charm on the Joe sixpacks out there, you betcha. She's got heels and she's dangerous... Excerpt regarding her 2006 debates: "Palin saved her most devastating riposte for the final question of the debate, when Persily asked the three candidates whether they would hire their opponents for a state job. Knowles and Halcro offered halting jokes. But when it was Palin's turn, she pounced. Smiling at Halcro, who recited reams of statistics by rote, Palin observed that the businessman "would make the most awesome statistician the state could ever look for." As the debate audience laughed, Palin pivoted to Knowles, who had owned an Anchorage restaurant. "Do they need a chef down in Juneau?" Palin asked, smiling as she twisted the verbal knife. "I know Mr. Knowles is really good at that." Two years on, Halcro and Knowles admit they are still baffled by how their mastery of policy and state issues was trumped by Palin's breezy confidence and feel-good answers. "When you try to prove she doesn't know anything, you lose, because audiences are enraptured by her," Halcro said. "And her biting comments give you a sense of how competitive she is. Anybody who doesn't take her seriously does so at their peril."

How much winter camping/hiking/climbing experience do you have? Because climbing these volcanoes in the summer months really don't teach you about being out in the cold/snow. The only thing I would say is that for a winter ascent I'd probably wait until later when snowpack is deeper and snowbridges solid. I'm also guessing that whatever fireroad you take now to get to the trailhead will probably not be plowed, adding a lot more mileage to a winter trip - probably an approach involving a sled pulk, because it would take days. Sounds like a lot of fun, but it would just take a long time and getting the right conditions... Baker does get a s#$t load of snow and traversing over to the N ridge might be deadly with the whole N face wanting to slide towards you. So... if you don't have much real winter experience (snow, cold, winds), then I probably wouldn't learn them on the N Ridge. Going up the Easton in winter would probably be a good test as it is.

Snow, wind, cold... sounds fun to me, but I'll probably be taking my vacations days and doing other things with it.

You just really have to try all the tools out. I have the Quarks and Nomics. I tried my tools against a friend's new BD Vipers and I just couldn't get a good stick at first with them... it just felt like it took a completely different swing/technique to get first sticks like I did with my Quarks. He, of course, had no issues with his Vipers. Can't really go wrong with a Petzl or BD tool. They both make quality tools and once you get used to one just stick with it and have better peace of mind on the climb. Ice climbing is, afterall, very much about gear and your comfort/familiarity with it.

Good article touching on the mental aspect and some tips to help calm the mind: http://neice.com/2007/TechTips/Inpractice2_ScottB.html

RIP Ryan and my thoughts go out to his family and loved ones.

Of course it helps to get oneself fit for a specific activity. It doesn't hurt to be stronger, leaner, and fitter. I just think that climbing, especially ice, is very much about energy conservation. The better you can do that, the longer and steeper you'll be able to climb. And energy conservation comes with technique, skill, and experience. When you learn how to read the ice better to get those good one swing sticks, place your screws more efficiently, find good feet and rests and keeping off your toes as much as possible... that goes a much longer way than fitness. So I say, yes, get stronger. But I still like to approach a climb not as a fit powerhouse (overconfident in my strength), but as a stingy weakling refusing to give too much energy on a climb. A comment I read from a guy who watched Steve House guiding at an NH ice fest last year: "It was amazing to see all the no-hands rests that he would find" All right, all this talk... I need some ice now

Good work, man!

Man, I'm out of shape now but should start getting ready for the ice... ok, just got out the tools (Petzl Nomics) on the pull up bar and... 1)5'8", 170lbs 2)1m30s 3)5 (lame!! I usually try to be ~15 mid season) 4)WI3+, WI4 - South of the Border/Katahdin/Baxter,ME; 3 seasons Pullups don't hurt (especially staggered pull ups) for ice, but I think they are more important for mixed.

I also have and used the Trangos on the DC this past weekend and 3 weekends ago. Although I think boot choice and foot temperature is really personal these boots were awesome and more than enough for the temps. Freezing level 3 weeks ago was at 11k and this past weekend at 14k but with 30mph+ winds. Honestly, I wouldn't expect any of my summit day clothes to keep me warm for 40 minutes of inactivity. As it is, my feet perspire with the lightest of activity. If I had used my Nepal Evos my feet would've chilled themselves cold with sweat.

Lol, I would, but that's my b-day and I'll be out with the gf Hope you get on it, though. Cool mountain. love the adks... -doug

Yes you can use it on static line. Be careful of soft falls with the Grigri - soft falls don't always activate the camming. Always tie a backup knot just in case. You can buy many diameters of static line. I think the popular black Sterling static we used to sell was 11/16" thick and 200m long... or you could buy it by the foot.

U the same chrix on NEice?

Nikwax Tx-Direct spray on. Although I haven't tested it and it makes sense, the wash in does supposedly ruin the breathability.

In the same line... Do your homework with a map/compass before the climb. Take important bearings for your route and write them on the map and on the back of your compass. I tape a piece of "write-in-the-rain" paper to the back of my compass and write down important bearings and elevations. On a nice sunny day you won't even look at it, but if the weather turns bad and visibility to nil you'll have that key info right there. Plus, its nice to have the elevation of certain features so you can recalibrate your altimeter if needed. Yeah, buy an altimeter.

Freezing level has been much higher than Muir and looks like it will be getting much higher from here on. Hiked up with boots on Sat, saw maybe 1 person going up in snowshoes (lol). Crampons not needed, waterproof boots and poles would be nice, especially for the boot glissading down.

alex and waka... sent PMs

Looking to get on it this weekend, 2/3. I've done Baker, Hood, Adams before, new to the area and need to shoot a monkey off my back before its too late. If you'd like to do a credit check to see that I'm legit, PM me and I'll send you my testosteronian credit score. Doug

PM'd

Awesome report and pics... looks gorgeous out there.

I'd pick Fall...late August-mid/end Oct. You get cooler weather, less bugs, trees with fall colors. Haven't climbed too much on Cannon except for the classic, Whitney-Gilman. You can make it harder with the 5.8 and 5.9 variations. That one and Moby Grape are some Cannon must-dos. Gunks is filled with classics... too many to list. Just walk down the carriage road and take your pick. High Exposure is one of the moderate classics - you can pick the 5.8 finish if you need more spice. Others... CCK, Easy O, Drunkard's Delight... Haven't climbed in the ADKs too much except for at Wallface - along with Cannon and Katahdin, one of the NE's biggest walls. I did Diagonal, the classic, but Lewis Elijah looked pretty damn cool on the descent. Acadia is a gorgeous park and there's very accessible climbing at the Otter cliffs, right on the water. On my designated climbing day there it rained... so can't help with specifics. Katahdin is more of a haul, but there's nothing else like it in the NE. There's climbing from Chimney Pond in the South Basin. Didn't do rock there, but climbed excellent ice! Doug