hafilax

I only took up skiing again a couple of years ago and have only skied one setup, white 168cm Gotamas (105mm waist) with dynafits. I'm 5'9"ish and about 155#. I like the width but I will go for a longer ski with my next purchase and probably something with a more early rise tip profile and flat tail. If you only have one set of skis for everything I would shy away from the fully rockered skis since the advantages disappear on hardpack and corn. My Gotamas are mounted near the FR line so pretty far back. I find the tails too short and am often fighting to keep from spinning around backwards but I like the length in front of my foot. The early rise tip of my future ideal ski should allow me to add a bit of running length to the tails for turns while still being able to ski pretty centered while going straight. Something like the Coomback or a PM Gear or DPS ski if I suddenly win the lottery. I will probably go to somewhere in the 175cm range for my next ski. jon, are you on the new fully rockered Gotamas? Do you like them? I checked them out at REI a while ago. It's a totally different ski. I'm surprised that they threw away the old design like that.

In Squamish there's the Split Beaver which goes from fists to knee bars. I think you can toprope some of the stuff up in the Cirque of the Uncrackables on the backside of the Chief like March of the Kitchen Utensils. If you really want to go for it I think you could toprope Pipeline by belaying from the top.

People are working on it. Genuine Progress Indicator http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Genuine_Progress_Indicator Gross National Happiness http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gross_national_happiness Gross Green Domestic Product http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Green_gross_domestic_product

But Canada's health care is so much better than ours! WTF?!?!?! Americans would never leave the states for medical care.

Where's the crazy part?

My nuts are too small and I don't have any friends.

Supertopians know something about bolting from hooks on first ascents. http://supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1082617/HOOK_AND_DRILL

I thought the Manaslu was the ideal at first but I'm a little worried about durability with the thin edge and base. IIRC they have a new freeride ski out (for next year) that looked good. Can check wildsnow. I'd look at the Coomback, Kilowatt, Zenoxide and if you're not afraid of spending a lot of money the Bro (the new 183 is a glass carbon fiber hybrid) or DPS Wailer 105 might be options. I'm on an old set of 168 Gotamas and like the 105 waist although I don't have a lot of experience on modern skis since I recently returned to skiing after a 16 year snowboarding hiatus. The only complaint I have about the Gotamas is that the tail is too short. Right now I think my ideal ski would be similar but have a more centered mount with the same amount of ski in front of the boot, a bit of tip rocker and less upturned tail with more of a pin profile.

Avatars tell you something about the person that the name their parents gave them doesn't. There is obviously a market for allowing people to post anonymously and to say things that are socially taboo. Isn't it better to have these arguments out in the open instead of everyone smiling and nodding to each other (where is the nodder anyway (For that matter I've never understood the whole nodder thing))? Who's going to run the background checks to make sure that the people are who they say they are? I've never trusted that rooster guy. I've always suspected that she's a hen. I do find it frustrating that a lot of people here are just in it for the mud slinging and I find it difficult to have any kind of meaningful discussion. I don't post anything that I wouldn't say to someone's face but I also don't want some nutcase messing with my life. The Pass the Pitons Pete saga on RC actually both fascinates me and freaks me out and there have been a few awkward situations on TGR where people have been messed with IRL. I think that anonymity protects the innocent more so than enabling the attacks (not that I'm calling PTPP innocent).

Please enlighten me. Where am I going wrong?

No, your post is dumber. When Bachar wants to bolt something ground up from hooks it's bold and traditional. When Marc wants to do it it's dumb?

so he wants to climb with a "pure" style, does he? yet all you can do is moan and whine about those who suggest a "pure" style potentially might entail eschewing bolts.... strange canuckian logic you've been dealin' out in yer posts. I wasn't whining trying to avoid bolts. People were talking about leading this thing on gear which isn't an option and should have been obvious from the OP. There are tons of slabs in Squamish that are bolted just like this route and some of them are even area classics. Trying leading Local Boys Do Good without bolts. For the record I think it should probably be left as a top rope if there's an easy walk off. If not then bolting it is a reasonable option IMO.

I trust his judgment on evaluating the natural protection available on a route and I know the local rock patterns. You guys are niggling at points that should be obvious from the OP. He just wants to climb with a pure style and doesn't have a lot of experience bolting on lead. There aren't really a lot of locals for him to talk to. In fact G-spotter is probably the best person for him to ask. He's probably the only person to respond who knows exactly the line in question, the history of the area and I know he's climbed with Marc. Anyway, this is turning into a waste of time.

I know Marc, I know what he's climbed, I know his opinions on climbing style and I trust his judgment.

Marc is basically the only developer in the area in question. There are no overuse issues. His real mistake is asking Americans for advice on what to do with Canadian rock. squamishclimbing.com would probably have resulted in a much more meaningful and shorter conversation.

We're talking about granite slab with no chance of natural protection. In Canada we protect those routes with bolts. It has nothing to do with vogue.

How much drilling have you done Marc? 12a slab might not be a good place to learn how to bolt on lead especially since you think it will require hooks. Does it look like there are lots of good hook placements that won't break off or at least for the first 2 bolts? You might be the only person to ever climb it. Is it worth the investment and risk? If you want to go Bachar style then I believe that the procedure is to lower after every hook placed bolt and pull the rope so that the top is only reached by free climbing on the last push.

It could be difficult to cancel out the ring tone if there is an important spoken part at the same time.

I think if you play music and don't give credit, plus you don't even have permission to use it you make it look like your own. "Borrowing"- how neatly said! Maybe I will "borrow" a few bucks from your wallet without your knowledge. I am sure "a borrower" will return it soon. In case of a film how do you you think you can "return" the item? Hence my title: a theft is a theft, regardless of what you are stealing. On the flip side, someone making a documentary had a cell ring while filming. The song was the theme from Rocky and EMI wanted $10000 for 6 seconds of cell phone ringing. They ended up settling for $2500. This wasn't intentional use. It just so happened that the subject at that time had an expensive ring tone. http://www.nytimes.com/2005/10/16/movies/16rams.html (2005) I wonder why people don't want to ask about royalties? When the label owns the rights the artists probably don't get much, if any, money anyway. I support bands I like by going to their shows. That's where they earn it. I agree that for small bands it is worth contacting them. 9 times out of 10 they'd probably be happy to let you use it if they are credited.

It's plagiarism if you claim it as your own. This is more borrowing without permission.

I guess it's a bit of a catch 22 for the artists. They're getting some free promotion out of the deal but aggressively pursuing royalties might backfire. It seems to depend on the scale of the use and the depth of the user's pockets. The honorable thing would be to get permission, royalties or not, and give credit to the artists. The problem is that it's generally not worth the hassle for the artists to collect and it's slipped into the collective unconscious that you can put music into presentations or movie clips without getting permission.

Do DJs or clubs pay royalties when they spin tunes with a cover charge?

I want pics!

Thanks Dane. I'm a physicist not a materials engineer so I don't have a good grasp of the finer points of steel manufacture. That was why I wanted you to clarify the volume of metal involved. Rereading your posts I did find that you talked about it but I missed it the first time. I guess I was looking for proof that there wasn't any weight savings in the crampon frame itself from using thinner stock or by larger cutouts in the under foot area. BDs being pretty coy about the specs so I guess we'll just have to wait and see about the durability. I will say that I appreciate the environmental spin of using recycled SS and the lack of coatings. I just got some new Sabertooths for general mountaineering use so I'm sure they'll see quite a bit of rock and I might find out sooner than later about how durable they are.

No experience sharpening tools but for skis it's a good idea to take the burrs off with a diamond stone before hitting it with the file. Really nasty burrs can wreck the teeth of a file.