hafilax

So, straying away from the tendon argument, I've noticed something. I went back a pages or three and re-read your example work out plan. the plan you wrote does not appear to endorse the "climb as hard as you can every time you climb" mantra. I think you need to make sure that we all understand exactly what you are trying to say, because here is how I (and i would guess many others) understand your proposed philosophy. An example schedule for clarity (for a v6 climber). Day 1 Climb V5/6 as many times as you can until your exhausted. Day 2 Climb V5/6 as many times as you can until your exhausted. Day 3 Climb V5/6 as many times as you can until your exhausted. Day 4 Climb V5/6 as many times as you can until your exhausted. Day 5 Climb V5/6 as many times as you can until your exhausted. etc. this is the idea most of your earlier posts conjure for those who read them. Quite different from what you proposed for the V4 Squamish climber. the schedule you proposed, while not standard periodization, is not far from what many climbers do; a lumping together of three of the four non-rest phases: hypertrophy, power endurance, endurance. Your schedule seemed very reasonable, except I would encourage some caution with the fingerboarding routine, doubling the number of hangs to failure after only one week might be a bit much. That is what I was trying to get at by having him write out a schedule. Even Hoerst recommends skipping a lot of the endurance stuff and working maximum strength if you're a boulderer and concentrating on endurance for the alpinist. If you want to train all aspects especially if endurance is a key to success then I believe that periodization will maximize the benefits for that time span especially if timed before a big trip. For bouldering and powerful sport climbs working just maximum strength and power endurance might be a better use of time.

I was looking for a full winter's program or at least something that would span the time of a periodization program. What you've given IMO is a pretty standard mesocycle of the power phase of a periodization program. I'm trying to figure out which aspects of periodization you think are bullshit and I hoped that a concrete example would show what your alternative program is like. You guys can spew all you want about tendons but if Kimmo's program is not that much different from those used by people training then it's all just mental masturbation. I know of lots of climbers that just kind of choose a weakness and work it for a while without strictly adhering to the all round improvement philosophy of periodization.

sorry my bad. only homer i know. whether or not your post was serious, my response was. trying to outline some form of generic "improvement" program without knowing the goals of the individual is kinda tuff. I figured you'd make something up for a generic climber or for yourself. The Homer thing was facetious. How about a V4 boulderer in Squamish looking to improve over the winter at the gym.

Not that Homer. A different one.

for who? Homer.

Kimmo, why don't you propose a training program. Something more than do a bunch of campusing and a bunch of finger board stuff.

Is that a mitten for pointing at things?

"Hurry HARD!!!!!"

I found it humourous that someone described a thread here as "...a very serious conversation..." From: http://alpineinstitute.blogspot.com/2009/11/sin-of-sponsorship.html

I'm afraid that in my humble opinion, the above is total BS. It's really not that hard, but there is a bit of a paradigm shift involved. And I am right, with little to no room for argument. If I was wrong, companies across the value spectrum from New Balance to some cheap yoga clothing companies that I know of would not be bringing their production BACK onshore. You would know better than I. My statement was the party line for Arcteryx and MEC last year. American Apparel seems to pull it off and I guess a few others that you have mentioned. Maybe there will be a shift back to NA factory production? It made sense to me that it would be difficult to keep a solid employee base for stitching in NA even at a reasonable salary for high volume production but I'd be more than happy to be wrong.

The Ascent of Rum Doodle- Bowman

As much as companies would love to be able to have gear stitched in NA it's become unfeasible. The cost of living is too high and better work for better pay too available. They can't keep seamstresses(sters) through the deadline crunches which compromises getting product out on time and at the market price. You can call BS if you want on MEC's (and every other business that outsources stitching) position but they do the best they can with the resources available IMO.

One nice thing about a large(ish) pack is that, if you're disciplined and don't fill it, it can be much easier to pack, unpack and dig out things from the middle. It also gives you more options for exchanging some weight around in the party if someone ends up lightly injured or overloaded and for distributing communal items at the trail head. If you pack with a scale then you won't over load it. I'm not saying that a huge pack is the best pack but that pushing a small pack too far is no better. You really need to know the volume and weight of your own gear to decide the best pack size.

Make up your own problems. Especially to work on skills that you want to develop. Get a laser pointer or a stick and have someone point to holds to move to. Play Add-on with someone of the same level. One person chooses starting holds and does a move. The next person repeats that move and then adds another. Continue until someone can't do a move.

The rant just seems jaded and closed minded. People that buy magazines like that shit and there's nothing that can be done about it. It's like ranting against pop music. You can't fight pop culture. As for honesty in self promotion, the frauds get found out in the end and the gravy train gets dumped in the river. I have no problem with people that aren't the best getting sponsored if they present a positive image of somebody that is passionate and out there climbing or doing whatever they do. If the 'more deserving' climbers aren't getting sponsors then they need to work on their self promotion skills. Sponsorship is part advertising and selling one's image is an integral part of the process.

I don't really want to know about your grandmother's hot flashes.

damn... I wish my middle name was 'Fucking'.... thats badass you know... go in for a job interview and be like, 'hey sir, I'm Marc Fucking Leclerc... that would be sweet! For $137 I'm sure that could be arranged.

Pressure breathing sounds like a pile of hooey!

Don't OverDo, Go Easy

Looks like a mini Dodge Sprinter.

Hammerfall cracks me up. [video:youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FIhxfZ23o4Q

I love my Patagonia Alpine Guide pants that I bought last year. I used them for all skiing including a big wet storm at baker and the Garibaldi Neve traverse + summit. Dry and comfortable the whole time.

Prog is geek music.

Death Magnetic is pretty damn good. I'm sure it is but I'm completely biased at this point and Hetfield's voice is unmistakable. I still listen to And Justice for All every once in a while but I don't enjoy it as much as I used to.

Lars is a shitty drummer and they're a bunch of arrogant, immature windbags. I can't stand to listen to Metallica any more. I don't really like Megadeath either but I voted for them out of default. Give me some Mastodon or Bison!