Le Piston

Trip: Ruth Mountain - Ruth Glacier Date: 7/14/2012 Trip Report: I had wanted to do Ruth for a long time, so with a rare weekend free and good weather I decided it was finally time. My original plan was to camp at Hannegan Pass and climb Ruth on Saturday, then head over to Copper Ridge Sunday. We all know how plans change. The approach trail is in pretty good shape (thanks to a WTA work crew also there for the weekend) except for a couple minor blowdowns and a dicey waterfall crossing. There is still a lot of snow up in the hills, but I was able to find one of the few flat bare patches on which to sleep. After a quick lunch I headed up and around Point 5963 traversing on perfect snow (no crampons needed). The views on the way to Ruth of Redoubt, Challenger and Whatcom were pretty nice. But I mostly wanted an upclose view of the Nooksack Cirque. I could see Shuksan through a gap...a teaser. I headed up the gentle slopes of the Ruth Glacier, visions of great panoramic views in my head, when seemingly out of nowhere the clouds boiled up and I was totally socked in with visibility about 20 feet. I waited, hoping it would pass, but it didn't. Not wanting to wander alone I followed my tracks all the way back to camp. I got up at 4:00 a.m. the next morning and headed back up in marginal weather. I waited on the summit for the weather to clear and improved the rock wall on one of the bivy sites...But the clouds hovered over Shuksan and Nooksack cirque. As I headed down, a big thunderhead came up over Ruth. I packed up and got back to my car just before it started to rain. Gear Notes: Ice axe and trekking poles. Snow conditions required no crampons. I didn't see any crevasses on the route Approach Notes: Snow pretty much continuous after Hannegan Pass, but a pretty good boot-path to follow.

Way to get it done! Sorry you didn't get to enjoy the awesome view from the top. I don't feel so bad about my socked in summit on Cashmere Sunday. Did it start to clear up for you on the way out as well?

One of the poles broke and a corner seam ripped.

Like a lot of gear choices, tents and tarps have trade-offs depending on the anticipated use. Unfortunately, there aren't too many shelters that "do it all" in every situation. Personally I like free-standing tents in most scenarios, (though I have a BD Megalite that I like)for bug and storm protection. Like JDCH I love my BD Firstlight. I did seam seal it and have stayed dry in rain storms. I use it solo and it will sleep two adults...very snugly. If the weather is looking marginal I take a bigger tent with a vestibule (BD Skylight or Hilleberg Jannu) I got a chance last month to try a friend's Mountain Hardwear Supermega UL2. It's 2 1/2 pounds, can sleep two, has a 6 sq. foot vestibule and is free standing. It seemed a bit flimsy though for real windy conditions. Big Agnes also makes several ultralight tents you might look at. As for the Eureka Zeus, I had one and would only consider it for car camping or hiking...it wasn't very durable. Hope this helps.

Only thing I'll say about getting cheap poles is consider durability. I once bought a pair of cheap poles and they broke on my third trip with them. The Black Diamond Flicklock Expedition poles I got after that are still going strong after many years. Sometimes you get what you pay for. If those poles are good quality, then you've got a bargain.

Thanks Pac Man! As a definite gearhead and convert to lightweight climbing (gettin' old), I appreciate comparing gear weights...though that isn't my only criteria for choosing what I put in the pack. Keep up the good work!

Trip: Colchuck Peak - Colchuck Glacier Date: 6/3/2012 Trip Report: This feels pretty tame after reading Ryanl's Prusik Peak TR (nice work by the way!) I do want to remind a certain partner what weekends are for. Can you imagine preferring a weekend in Tahoe with a hot girlfriend to climbing? I thought about soloing the North Buttress Couloir, but didn't feel burly after 3 hours of sleep. I figured to get a workout and hopefully some views. I joined the line going up the glacier. I was suprised how many people were on the route. The snow was just about perfect for booting up. The snow above the col was a bit harder, and I was glad for the bucket steps...especially coming down. I at least had 10 minutes alone on the summit to enjoy the view. A nice couple joined me we swapped summit shots. Thanks Neil and Sally!I thought about going up Dragontail and down Aasgard, but the little snow squall made me wonder if the weather was going to get nasty, so down I went. The snow on the glacier made for excellent glissading and speeded me down to the lake. Wouldn't you know by then the sun came out. It was still a good day for an old fart...and better than the gym or Mt. Si. Better than Tahoe? Gear Notes: Ice axe and crampons for the descent.

Thanks for the reminder. I went out to Tahoma National Cemetery with my family...lots of graves and flags. A good reminder of the price payed for our freedoms. Too bad most of our holidays have evolved away from their origins.

I have the Firstlight and it's bigger cousin the Skylight. It weighs about a pound more, but has a lot more room. I've been in North Cascades and Olympics rain in both and stayed dry, though condensation can be an issue. If you like the Firstlight, but want a bigger tent but still want to keep the weight around 4 pounds, take a look at the Skylight.

I used to have the pre-Ti Jetboil and moved on to the MSR Reactor...love it! The Reactor wins hands down for melting snow, where a bigger pot is much better. If you're only heating water for one person, go with the Jetboil, but .8 liters of water doesn't go very far between two or more people. Just curious though how the Jetboil manages to minimize carbon monoxide output more than the MSR?

I'm curious too, when I went up there a few weeks ago there was snow on the road the last mile or so. I was able to get to the trailhead using 4 wheel drive, but I'm sure there's a lot more snow now. If "thunder legs" doesn't break the trail, I'll go back up there gladly!

Another Julbo Advance fan here. They have served me well in all sorts of conditions. I always use Croakies so I don't lose or forget them.

I also used the BD Speed 30 for quite a while, but last year bought a Deuter Pace 30. I find it much more suitable for alpine day climbing. It has side pockets for pickets or other gear, a rear shovel pocket, and a mesh pocket on the waist belt for small items (GU, lip balm, sunscreen, etc)...very handy. So far it has proved very durable, light, and comfortable to wear on approach and while climbing. Good luck finding a good pack for your needs!

Great pictures! It brings back memories of my trip in 2005. That looks like a fun route...glad you had such primo conditions.

I second Devin27 and Genepires on Sahale, Ingall's North Peak, Colchuck, and Liberty Bell. Ruth, The Tooth and South Early Winters Spire are other favorite fall intro to the Cascades climbs. Check out some of the Trip Reports and enjoy!

Stout work. Now THAT is a TR! You guys are animals. Thanks for sharing your adventure.

It is a great looking mountain. Here's a tease from Saturday.

Stout work gentlemen! I really enjoyed your report and especially the pictures...Damn you got some great shots! Made me feel like a wimp just climbing Challenger in July...you guys are animals!

Thanks Dane...very informative. I just wish I had seen this before I bought my Cyborgs! Perhaps I can find a kitchen use for them...meat tenderizer?

That first picture says it all!...classic. I hate to admit I've had that look a few times. Superb pictures and TR. It appears the approach is scarier than the actual route...typical North Cascades fun. Thanks for sharing a great climb.

One of my favorites, and my first as a youth, is Little Annapurna. It's a long day, but I did it 2 years ago and was out before needing a headlamp. It takes you past Colchuck Lake and into the upper Enchantments...great views. You might be better off easing into this with shorter hikes and build up...depends on how adventurous your wife is. Just up to Colchuck Lake or up Asgaard Pass might be enough. Good luck!

Very cool! I'm glad you can do these trips with your dad...that is very special. I hope to be doing this when I'm 66. Thanks for sharing your trip. Too bad you didn't climb Snowfield, it's fun and offers great views. You guys are animals! Also, check out Psalm 19:1...one of my favorites in the alpine. Cheers!

Way to get after it Val! Sorry you had such grief from the Rangers...I've never had any bad experiences with them and hope to keep it that way. Looks like you enjoyed a beautiful climb anyway with good friends. Life doesn't get much better. I also agree about rapping the couloir...the hungry moats await!

I got a pair of the Endeavor pants this year. It's got a full length vertical zipper, as well as horizontal zipper, so you can take 'em off or put 'em on while wearing boots and crampons. I really like mine, though as Water states, they're not full on 4 season Softshells. I like being able to get shorts or pants from the same garment. Cloudveil used to make a roll-up softshell (Peak or Prospector) pant that I also found worked well for adapting to changing weather/temperatures.

Thanks for posting...appreciate the beta. Looks like fun! Have much problem with bugs?