DRep

Nice job! a couple of pics look different from what we saw on Sunday. Crazy how much that face changed in only one day.

Right on guys, glad you made it up with those enormous packs. cool pics! NW coulior was definitely in.

About 17 hrs

Trip: Mt. Shuksan - North Face Date: 1/26/2009 Trip Report: On Sunday, January 25th my friend Eric and I climbed the North Face of Shuksan. Judging by the previous inversion and the forecasted temps to be very cold up high we thought this would make for a good ice/neve route. We left the car at 1:00am and botched the approach somehow. Arrived at the base of the climb just before sunrise where we brewed some water and studied our route. Temps had to be in the single digits, but we were fine. The top of the col between the face and the White Salmon was a posthole sufferfest. Here we met two parties of skiers going to attempt the face as well . Once we passed the schrunds, conditions turned to low angle alpine ice and then hard neve. The climbing on the face was easy and alot of fun, we didn't rope up . The top out onto the glacier was loose jumbled rock frozen together. We descended the White Salmon and found the most variable conditions ever (2" breakable sun crust, wind slab, pow, and ice) making it a real slog. At the bottom of the valley there was a gargantuan avy debris field that took a long time to stumble through. The hike back uphill to the truck really really sucks after a long day. A great climb with a great partner on a gorgeous day. Eric had the camera maybe he'll post a pic or two, or you can just go see for yourself. Gear Notes: Simul soloed. Skis would have been nice for the descent. Approach Notes: From the White Salmon Lodge take the left cat track for about a half mile to a Y. Take the left and descend down an obvious clearcut to the White Salmon Creek. Stay on North side of valley until you reach the face.

Damn Rudy, looks like I passed off some of my awesome karma to you! Sorry to hear about this dude. Good luck.

go for it.

back to work tomorrow.

-HELLO DAWG FANS! Its a little late but it is hillarious. An angry Hitler about the Dawgs last place finish. [video:youtube]

Glad to see old Carocciolo is climbing strong again!

Congrats Bryan! Thats been on my list for a while. No Juvenile Delinquents

Better skip class if you really want it back, the new meth van across the street might steal it. What did it get stuck on?

I contemplated this but wasn't sure. However, due to insane wind I decided my objective for the day would be to avoid as much actual slab climbing as possible. I chose to stick to the trees instead. I can't believe DNR is going to take out the bridge. This would really hurt access not only for us but for some classic hikes in the area. The actions of the DNR are very similar to the original access plan proposal in Hyalite Canyon (reservior/access/ignorant officials). The hostility towards recreational groups which MattP talks about is understandable. I grew up in Sultan and frequented the Sultan Basin for hikes and such, my lingering impression of the area is that it is a dump and dangerous (garbage and shooting). The City of Everett and Snohomish County Sheriff have really cleaned the area up in recent years. Are there any other user groups we can associate with in protest ie. hikers? Or Is it already too late to do something about this plan?

Why minimize future blowouts if the road is abandoned and it's 100+ yards to the river on a low angle slope? Rat, if you haven't noticed, there is a huge dam on the Sultan River making it impossible for fish to reach the north and the south forks of the Sultan. It was clear to Argus and I that these were made to keep people out and it was money terribly spent. An indestructable gate at the entrance would have been more relevant in keeping deuschbags dumping garbage out. On another note, Lost Charms is a cool route. Note to self: wind makes slab climbing really scary.

That's where everyone who gets off-route goes off-route at. It didn't seem too difficult when we were there, you just needed to head up and right on the slabs and then back left so you put yourself 100' above your belayer. It's more of a gully than a chimney. Sounds like a full on adventure for ya!

Effin sick man! Who'd you partner with? Lets see a TR.

It depends, if she is always asking to go climbing with me then a good place to take the little lady would be Index. The way I see it, if she doesn't like the place and freaks out, then it's an early sign that things just won't work out. However, if she loves it, thats a keeper. Call me selfish but GNS, The Tooth, Ingalls, and Midway get pretty boring after a couple ascents.

The Gash?

Congrats man! NEB of Slesse at 15? Keep up the good work!

ALERT: this year for the first time ever there were more registered female freshman than males. Damnit, I knew I should have stayed in Bozo this year. Not many cuties in Sultan.

Respect, he likes offwidth and his nine year old son climbs harder than me. I can't wait for Raindawg to post on this thread!

Oh, how I miss Bozeman, only a ratio of 5 dudes to one female. This would further explain why Bryan has this one tied on. Way to stake your claim dude. Five+ years in that town has taught you proper technique, not only in Ice Climbing, but in 8D. Hopefully for Johns sake, Bryan will untie her for a day while they blast the route.

I think I did that a year ago in two weeks? Definitely needs a good dumping on the summit snowfield with a little melt action for the route forms up. Hey John, you should go for the Lowe Direct.

So, I recently got a cool job giving me Sunday, Monday, Tuesday off. I thought this would be sweet except my partners usually can only do Saturday climbs. So now I find myself scrounging around the crag for partners, scrubbing routes, or TR soloing (can't find a soloist for lead) out of bordom and desperation. Anyone else have these days off? I have been climbing for 10 years. Lead 5.10+ trad, WI4, and beginning aid climber. I prefer to go alpine climbing most of all. I live about 15 minutes from Index but don't mind driving to dry areas if needed. Leavenworth?. I'm looking for a regular partner with a similar schedule and abilities to rope up with. Pebble wrestlers and spandexit 32/38ers need not apply . PM if interested.

Mr. Frieh, is that your photo?

Mmmmm, first pitch of the Lowe Route on the Sphinxter. Fun stuff!