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alpinemorg

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Everything posted by alpinemorg

  1. Nice, just sent you a PM with a couple questions. Thanks for the TR.
  2. The Pinnacle is comfy and all it's special stuff works great. However, they don't seem to have nailed the craftsmanship yet on this new pack as I've already been through one because of a strap pulling out of the stitching when I tightened the lid during my second tour in it. When I returned it they seemed surprised, and said no one else had that problem yet. But they also said it's a new pack and might not have gotten all the 'problems' worked out yet. My replacement looks like it's about to do the same thing. If so, I think it'll be time for something else...REI replacement or not.
  3. In about 1980 my wife, who was working in a mountaineering shop, gave me a copy of Chouinard's book for Christmas. Inside was a note "You will spend Christmas vaction learning from the author". I spent three days taking an ice climbing lesson from Chouinard and Jim Donini - I can still remember him french stepping up the Smear with one long piolet. Dates me, I guess. And, yeah, I've still got my bambo piolet and my Terrors in a box somewhere. Very impresive story! I once met and learned from Jack Tackle at an ice-fest in N. Michigan...that's my closest to a throw-back story (i'm only 26). He was amazing.
  4. That's exactly what I heard...#1 advise was all members of the party wear a helmet. We'll see Monday.
  5. Sounds good...though not much free time till Fri or Sun.
  6. Temps up and little precip. over the weekend. Any one have any advise on whether it's worth checking out on Monday? Any thoughts appreciated. Morgan
  7. Though it's understandable that on the surface it appears that way, it is NOT in fact 'standard procedure' to give a gri-gri to a beginner. Every time belaying is taught (Intro to climbing classes, Junior Program age 10-16, Little Rockers age 6-9, college school groups, lead clinics, etc...) it is taught no different than most other climbing gyms/companies are teaching belaying...with a locking carabiner and an ATC, using the proper hand motion and the brake hand ALWAYS being on the line (the last part the MAJOR emphasis). Further, anyone new to the gym who chooses not to take the class and wishes to simply take a standard belay test must also demonstrate their proficiency first with the ATC method, and THEN with the VW fixed anchor/Gri-gri set-up. Hope that helps shed some light on the methods. Cheers.
  8. That's a good question/side that trad climbers don't always seem to factor in. I think one would have to evaluate what the local custom of the site was, i.e. if it's a sport climbing locale then you just have to respect that. But what if it's not a sport site, or what if bolts are only accepted if placed ground-up by hand?
  9. Check out NECLIMBS.com...ongoing battles about this topic in New Hampshire given the large mix of sport v. traditional. You could certainly get a mix of answers (opinions) to your question.
  10. Am new to AT and backcountry, but just purchased a pair of 404's to make approach ski for climbing/starting to play around with some light touring. Want to get a cheap used ski that is light enough and has some life in it. Please let me know if you want to get rid of anything that may be u$efull. Cheers, Morgan
  11. PM Sent. Going to go to exit 38 Thursday AM if things stay dry. Anyone else?
  12. It was nice to see neclimbs.com and neice.com in the list. Any other former New Englanders feeling the love?
  13. Not so sure about leaving my car unlocked. I'm not always sure about that either...it just seems cheaper than replacing a smashed window. What about rocket-boxes on the top of cars, anybody have problems with those? I'm moving out from the NE in a week to Issaquah and was planning to do a lot of my local climbing around N. Bend...I'm glad to have this warning as I'm used to the back of my car being the gear shed. I'm going to need a new system! Damn you northwestern thieves!
  14. So is it best to leave the vehicle un-locked to (i.e. so there is no window breakage)? Or if the car is empty I should be ok?
  15. What is your height/weight. PM if you're shy to post it . I'm 5'11'', 175. Starting to look at AT set-ups, but alpine ski on 167's, so it seems like yours might be to long (and fat?) for me. Morgan
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