alpinemorg

Thanks for the advise.

Scrambling between snowfields this fall on Ptarm. Ridge I popped a buckle clean off. Does anyone know if shops are able to rivet a new buckle on through the old hole? Thanks for any advise.

Very cool, thanks.

Well if she's a professional "lady" I would expect that as I'm prepared to pay her for an experience, which is what I'm doing if I'm looking for knowledge and/or experience from a professional guide or instructor. Though a true lover of the mountains, Rebuffat was also a film star and mountain guide. Sadly...that is what happens to me before kisses from a nice girl, she's called my wife :-D.

Harsh man! You make earning a living sound so sinister.

How was the snow, did you end up in boots or approach shoes?

Is that the lone teva at easy street?

8-10' on a #6 ABC Nut (same sizes as BD) on some 5.8 route in Crow Hill, MA. This was my first education in how much older graded routes can vary in difficulty from a "modern" 5.8....I also just am not that great of a climber :-).

Found a pair of brown glasses 6.1.08. Please PM if they're yours, I'll mail them back to you.

PM Sent

Good choice.

Thanks all. Say hi if in Leav. this weekend. Silver CRV w/ black box.

Do you mean at the free place he just mentioned? What is that free area? What land is it on? Thanks!

I know there are a bunch of NF campsites up the Icicle Creek Rd., though have only been there in the spring. What are the chances of finding a site if not coming in until Saturday night? Anyone know other options? Thanks.

Thanks y'all.

Info on Ingalls Peak states four 60M raps down S. Ridge Route. Has anyone done this in two raps with linked half-ropes? Or does the route zig-zag/have to many knot traps? Thanks in advance. Morgan

Does anyone know how I can contact him to see about getting a book?

...more shorts over poly-pro with mountaineering boots at Vantage (I thought this was a phenon that was a bit played up until I realized it was a new possy each day, is it like gang colors or something?). Blue jeans or fleece pants seem to work fine. ...Party crew rolling in at 11:30, taking shots within 5, surprised that after midnight their high decibal herbie hancock was a problem. I think about 2 of them actually climbed, the rest nursed hangovers and watched DVD's in the car the next day. Three tool-boxes hooting and hollering, talking shit to people, losing the shirts as they got pumped out, taking three rests all before 10AM on 'Don Coyote'. Seriously, WTF....leave the non-climbing 'bros' at home and let them do their drinking/partying elsewhere (note: am ALL for revelry and ingestion of certain substances, though not for letting them be an excuse for ignorant and rude behavior). But the climbing was a blast. Yay for high desert, driving home through the mountains. I'll take this place over Boston any day!

YES...but usually just the locals.

Ok, I know it's out of print and none of the stores around here have them. How can I get my hands on a copy of "Rock Climbers Guide to Frenchman's Coulee"? I have to beg one from some kind folks each time (this weekend will be no different). Thanks.

Nice, just sent you a PM with a couple questions. Thanks for the TR.

The Pinnacle is comfy and all it's special stuff works great. However, they don't seem to have nailed the craftsmanship yet on this new pack as I've already been through one because of a strap pulling out of the stitching when I tightened the lid during my second tour in it. When I returned it they seemed surprised, and said no one else had that problem yet. But they also said it's a new pack and might not have gotten all the 'problems' worked out yet. My replacement looks like it's about to do the same thing. If so, I think it'll be time for something else...REI replacement or not.

In about 1980 my wife, who was working in a mountaineering shop, gave me a copy of Chouinard's book for Christmas. Inside was a note "You will spend Christmas vaction learning from the author". I spent three days taking an ice climbing lesson from Chouinard and Jim Donini - I can still remember him french stepping up the Smear with one long piolet. Dates me, I guess. And, yeah, I've still got my bambo piolet and my Terrors in a box somewhere. Very impresive story! I once met and learned from Jack Tackle at an ice-fest in N. Michigan...that's my closest to a throw-back story (i'm only 26). He was amazing.

That's exactly what I heard...#1 advise was all members of the party wear a helmet. We'll see Monday.

Sounds good...though not much free time till Fri or Sun.