cheamclimber

there were ice steps continuing up the gully but nothing climbable, If it was thicker we could have continued up the ice steps though. The gully was facing NW (i think) and was pretty shadowed. It was pretty easy to see from where we parked but not the other areas. If its an FA or FRA I could start thinking of a name but it was WI3 and would be really good in fatter conditions.

the pineapple express is supposed to be over by wednesday and the temps should drop way down again, we'll probably have snow in the valley again sometime next week.

I thinks we pulled over at the Sumallo grove Parking lot... a big pullout on the right about a 1 or more kilometers after you pass the Bukowski/Kippan and landmark routes. Heres a really dark pic of the route from where we parked

It was a fair bit East of the cabins where there is a big pullout on the road and a clump of trees on the north side of the river. It would be cool if my first ice route was an FA

mountains = big slab between place ments...NO BOLTS FOR PRO! crags = get hurt... buddy helps you home! mountains = fall and break leg...your pretty much f**cked mountains = avalanches and rockfall...not so much at crags

24 km past Hope on Highway 3. You have to cross the Sumallo River on logs and shallow sand bard and then bushwack up to the climbs. Takes about 45 mins from car to climb.

^thanks^

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Trip: Sumallo Bluffs - Unnamed WI3 - 60m Date: 12/1/2007 Trip Report: I went up to the Sumallo Bluffs today with Matt Kidd and his buddy Cam. We climbed a WI3 a few hundred meters to the left of 'the mess'. The ice was super thin and sketchy for Matt to lead because of lmited screw placements. We all made it up and I was ecstatic after my first ice climb ever. Here's some pics... Here's details about our climb. We drove past the Buzowski Kippan and Landmark gullies for at most 1km and pulled over at a small parking lot across from a couple small clearcuts. We headed into the trees about 50ft back from where we parked and crossed the creek on a small log bridge we contructed over a shallow area. We bushwacked up the trees for 20 mins to find ourselves at the base of a small gully with some low angled ice at the bottom, we then traversed east into the next gully and ascended snow covered rocks to the base of our climb. The 60m rope was about 15ft short of making it to the anchor tree (above and left of the route)..so a 70m rope would be a good idea unless you want to simul climb 15ft of the route while your partner climbs to the anchor. To descend we did one single rope rappel down a cut in the trees to the left of the climb and then one double rope rappel down the last bit of trees. These two rappels bring you to a little slope 25m left of the base of the route. We then bushwacked straight down through the forest back to the car. If this is an FA I dont really know what to name the route..suggestions would be cool.. I was thinking of calling it Stairway to Heaven because the route reminded me of three big steps.. but I'm pretty sure that that name has been used a million times before.

sweet, last two winter were gay, Hemlock didnt have enough snow to board on.

scarpa summit GTX are sweet and the Mantas are good for more moderate terrain.

Is this up towards the Hope Mountain Trail? How far up the road do you have to drive?

Thats no fun, a big slide came down Cheam today...the drainage gully for the NW bowl is all clogged with avalanche debris.

Does anyone want to go ice climbing around Hope this Saturday? I'm new to ice climbing and want to try some easier climbs around WI3 or so. PM me if you're interested. Thanks Marc Leclerc

I'm inspired to run water down my house when the temps drop now...or just sobotage one of the new pipes my dad put up last week...

P.S- I'm planning to start and finish by headlamp and I would need someone fast to pump this off in one of our short December days.

wtf? thats like triple price!

I tried some drytooling yesterday by myself and on my first dry tool attempt ever I did a backflip off the cliff from about 10ft up...luckily I was fine but my advice for you is...learn from someone who knows what they're doing because it is very different from rock climbing.

Hey, I'm trying to find someone else who wants to do the NE Ridge route up Cheam Peak next weekend (1st weekend of December) If you're interested PM me or just reply on this thread. I'm only 15 but I usually climb with people more than twice my age so there's nothing to worry about there

mec.ca has Koflach Degres, I almost bought some but I decided they were a bit heavy for me.

I wouldnt buy a mad rock boot, scarpa and La Sportiva are, in my opinion, the best footwear companies for climbing. The Scarpa Freneys and Charmoz are nice boots for sure!

I just bought a pair of Scarpa charmoz for 319$ CAD and they are fantastic. I went for a hike wearing them straight out of the box and I had no hot spots or discomfort at all, they are ridgid enough for alpine ice climbing and nice and warm. The only problem in the lack of toe bails, they are working well with my BD Sabertooth Clip Crampons but a toe bail would still be nice.... I can definitely recommend these boots fore any alpininst who wants to go fast and light without sacrificing warmth or comfort.

Those Couloirs look pretty nice, probably the best descent if I try the rib and G-Spotters right...I don't think theres a big line up for this mountain at the moment.

ya...that was meant to be sorta sarcastic...

I'm really screwed than at 5ft 10' and 125 pounds Rather mystifying since according to my calculations you shouldn't even exist. Go straight to the fridge and don't stop eating until you hit 198.65 lbs. hahahaha...I'm also only 15...