cheamclimber

Yeah, I cant wait to get my liscence but nowadays with the whole Learners for a year rule I'm looking at a two year wait still... I'm guessing that Sumallo Bluffs is an avalanche death trap right now ith all those snowy cliffs and gullies above the climbs, whats jarvis bluffs like? I've also read about seabird Falls right by my house but its too warm for ice this low right now...

I was thinking about williams today... the hardest part for me is finding people to climb with... the south ridge of Welch sounds good too.. but hows acces right now?

I saw a lot of snow blowing over the NW Face today on my way to school, I guess windslabs and cornices are really forming with the outflow wind... does anybody know of some climbing around chilliwack that is leass avalanche threatened and more than juat a snowshoe trip?

I'm worried about the arctic outflow winds this week making slabs this week but Its supposed to stop snowing all week and be cold so maybe the conditions will be a bit nicer next weekend

I got so hot with my fleece on I stopped and sat tin my tee for a while to cool off, not surprisingly it was very effective!

ya, I'm in Agassiz. I've seen some massive slides come out of there too. I just have to try again on a good day I guess... my friend says he scrambled up it 20 yrs ago when it was dry but for the 2nd two thirds he was climbing up the forest to the rightr of the gully. So I dont think it's been done in winter or by staying in the last part of the gully.

couldnt agree more...

His soloing wasnt that stupid but I think his rope jumping was....

dano was anything but a genius... ur prolly right, I read somewhere that he was super smart with all his jump calculations though. ...except his last one. nt he move his jump spot and make two ropes rub together and melt?

It was wicked fun, I'm planning another go for tommorow in the sun and without all the gear... more speed... more ascent...more FWA= yay!

thanks man, I might go again tomorrow, its suposeed to clear up and be sunny .. the pics are up now.

dano was anything but a genius... ur prolly right, I read somewhere that he was super smart with all his jump calculations though.

Trip: Cheam Peak - Big NW couloir thingy attempt #2 (solo) Date: 1/19/2008 Trip Report: The avy conditions were good and I thought it was supposed to clear up today so I got my Dad to drop me off at the popkum Exit to try and solo the big 5,000 ft couloir on the NW side of cheam. I had way to much gear because my parents said that if was gonna try to climb this thing I had to bring a rope and harness and pins and..... ect. I think the idea was that if I got into trouble I could retreat or self belay. So I arrived at the foot of the mountain at 7:00 and started hiking up the gully, I hit the avy debris in the gully after about 10 minutes and when I hit the first big cliff in the gully I headed left into the forest and hiked around it. I moved into the gully again about 20 ft above the cliff and started climbing the icy gully, after rounding the first corner I could see 3 vertical cliff bands in the gully and instead of dry-tooling them I swam through the ugly forest directly to the right of the cliffs... to me this was the worst part of the days climbing because I hate dense bush and this stuff was nasty. It took me forever to get back into the gully but I made it around all the rock bands alive and climbed 45 degree avalanche runnels for what seemed like a long time until the gully got skinnier and steeper and there was another cliff in front of me. It was really starting to snow heavily and I was going too slow so about halfway up the couloir I headed into the forest on my right and put all my stuff back in the bag and bush thrashed down the ridge. I found a bunch of pink trail markers in the forest that took me directly to the base of the first cliff and saved myself a buch of routefinding down the treed ridge and I got picked up by my Dad at 1:30. I turned around because the weather sucked and I am a wimpy 15 year old and the gully is 5,000 ft and thats kinda big for me when I can't see more than 100 ft either way, but I really have to go back and climb this f*#cker on a sunny day. The route from Agassiz The gulley from the base, I got about 1/2 way up. The beggining of 5000 ft of snow First big cliff, I took trees on the left to avoid this one. Me at the base of the first cliff Where I hit the gulley again at the edge of the cliff. This is what the climbing is like for the most part, my battery died before it got much steeper than this. The first of four little cliff bands, I swam through the bushes to the right. Looks like it would be easy if it froze. Gear Notes: Ice tools, crampons, good snow for pickets if you need them, and some rock gear if you plan on climbing the rock steps (in colder temps they should freeze into short WI2 problems) Approach Notes: popkum exit off Highway #1... walk through field directly into gully, cant miss it.

Alright I think I'm doing the unclimbed red line this weekend but only to the top of the couloir I think...

No kidding! I figured you were young and gung ho, but didn't realize you were that young. Sounds like you've already done a lot of climbing. ya, I started climbing indoors when I was nine

what a retard... Dan Osman was a freaking physics genius and he still died..I wonder what this guys chances are

One time I trusted myself to such a thing and as I was being lowered off it It came off the wall and I quicky jammed my hand in the crack I had just lead and downclimbed the rest

I sound comparable to your son. I've led 12a and TR'd 12c in squamish and I've put up a 5.11 or two at the bluffs near my house. I won canadian nationals in 2003 but now I'm content to climb in the 5.11 range and dont train as hard as I used to... but I live near chilliwack so Its a couple hours for me to get to seattle

8D

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Is the navigator the East Face.. that looks wicked hard! the nav wall goes up a sub summit to the east of the east pillar. Are you reffering to the face between NE Butress and N Rib?...has that been climbed? both are ED1, both are hard. the one positive of the east pillar may be the additions of fixed gear (20 year old bolts and pitons), while the nav wall has not a single piece of anything resembling fixed gear, prior ascents, hints of human life, etc. Nav Wall TR East Pillar TR but really those are just warm ups for the real hard climb on slesse, the NE Face.

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one sunny day I was hugging a rock for dear life, I slowly and smoothly reached a nice juicy jug and then shoved my nuts into a nice clean crack. It wasnt a perfect fit and put my nuts in and out of the crack for a while until my biggest nut got stuck!!! After 1/2 hour of pushing and pulling on my nuts a grabbed my hammer and started whaling the shit outa by nuts. It tooks six good hits until my nut came outa that crack and now I;m telling ya... its quite a bit wider... almost stacked hands now!!!

I'm 15 and I'm up for any rock, ice or alpine climbing with other guys my age.

Is the navigator the East Face.. that looks wicked hard!