cheamclimber

well, I did some checking, and the Kay-Zozykian line (red) marked on that photo is wrong. Bruce assures me they climbed the true NW face, much as marked by the purple line (later climbed by Brayshaw and Touche), which was my original understanding. their approach was via the gully immediately behind the foreground telephone pole (light blue) - there were 2 roped pitches in "steep jungle" somewhere in there - the rope stayed in the pack for the actual face. so, the layout is: green: main gully approach (best in trees to left) light blue: B-Z approach (winter) yellow: upper N ridge purple: NW face dark blue: summer West bowl (upper part probably climbed earlier via W'ern approach) red: unclimbed cheers, I must add that on the green gully approach to the angel one must take the actual drainage right to the base of the large cliffs halfway up and then go left into the trees or else you will end up going to the true North face and have to cros 3 or 4 gullies to get back into the angel wich would be really crappy and tiring.

Man I wish I had a pic of the 12a I was working at Elbow Lake, that was sweet overhang on wicked rock!

we are the pirates we don't do anything we just stay at home, and lie around and if you ask us, to do anything we'll just tell you, we don't do anything well I've never been to Greenland and I've never been to Denver and I've never buried treasure in ST Louie or ST Paul and I've never been to Moscow and I've never been to Tampa and I've never been to Boston in the fall we are the pirates we don't do anything we just stay at home, and lie around and if you ask us, to do anything we'll just tell you, we don't do anything and I've never hoist the main sail and I've never swabbed the poop deck and I've never veered starboard, cause I've never sailed at all and I've never walked the gang plank and I've never owned a parrot. and I've never been to Boston in the fall we are the pirates we don't do anything we just stay at home, and lie around and if you ask us, to do anything we'll just tell you, we don't do anything I've never plucked a rooster and I am not too good at ping-pong and I've never thrown my mashed potatoes up against the wall and I've never kissed a chipmunk, and I've never gotten head lice and I have never been to Boston in the fall and I've never licked a spark-plug and I've never sniffed a stink bug and I've never painted Daisies on a big red rubber ball and I've never bathed in yogurt and I don't look good in leggings and I've never been to Boston in the fall we are the pirates who don't do anything we just stay at home, and lie around and if you ask us, to do anything we'll just tell you, we don't do anything

hmmm I wonder then, I still want to try it this year when the conditions improve, it looks like conditions are gonna get a lot better when this storm ends for the rest of this week. I've been in the area where the light blue line goes and that is some steep and gross stuff in there,I dont think I would even want to try that one... I think the red line looks nicer and more aesthetic in general (it was nice when I was in there anyways)

The rock changes dramatically on that face, southeast part of the mountain has some of the worst rock I have ever seen in my life but the farther out you go towards the southwest face the rock improves quite abit. I would still really want a helmet though.

Thats me on my first trad lead^

I've read all about Dru climbing the NW Face but I was reffering to the original West face route that takes the 5000 ft couloir in the forest signifigantly west of their route. Theres a topo somewhere here http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=613895

Ya, I'm going to wait until the snow freezes up tight and it would be nice if there is more snow closer to the bottom of the route. I'm guessin the crux of that route will be on the upper section out of the trees..am I right. I dont think this route is climbed too often though is it? Has it even being repeated? I couldnt find any info on it other than really vague descriptions in a couple books.

No, I'm trying to sign up for one in the North Shore. I've read 5 or 6 books but that isnt much good without real intruction. When I went to Wells to go ice climbing my partner was a guide and he gave me a pile of info but I want to get a full course.

I'm gonna wait until Feb or so when the big slides cover the entire gulley in snow. Looks like a very fun climb with minimal bushwacking though. Has it been repeated since 1988?

It wasnt going to really be an attempt... I wanted to see what the gulley was like, more of a recon trip than a real attempt. I was annoyed that I spent all of 5 minutes in the gulley and the rest was a boring and tiring bushwack.

What are you talking about... I soloed that 'extremo hardman' route four years ago.

The first step in not climbing the West Face of Cheam is to ask two people that dont like snow and love bushwacking to climb with you. Make sure these people are syummer only climbers who like to leave for a climb at 8AM instead of 6:00 at absolute latest. After packing all the gear and rope you will need and start hiking up the gulley to the base of the huge snowy couloir make sure that one of the people you asked to join you leads up into the trees to go around the first nasty cliff. After bushwacking 2000 ft ''around'' the cliff cross the gulley again and as you start to have a lot of fun ascending the snowy gulley make sure that the "avid bushwacker" crosses the awesome gully just to bushwack up more crummy forest. As you explain that the idea was to climb the snow in the gulley it starts snowing and your partner says " I dont really like snow, lets go back down" If anyone who actually like climbing in snow wants to give this a shot with me some other time (in Febuary most likely) PM me please.

and I bet Peter denied it three times

neither..I'm canadian

I think the far right hand side of Lady North Face could be done in winter... and the south face of ABP would make a good aid line up one of the gullies I was looking at or a slightly harder route up the face.... I thought either would probably go at about 5.9 A1 or 2 (some small roofs) I will try it if you want to try it^ I'll give either of these a shot next summer

If you dont mind dying and looking like a retard in the act the North Face of Lady Peak has never been climbed.... :: Its big and Alpine but more of a vertical chos pile that a real cliff

okay..will do. jk

^

Yes, or the last statement would be "dang its hot down here"

Is the snow really loose and avalanche prone?

I was skiing at Hemlock Valley resort two days ago and I took a huge jump under the lift. Unfortunately I attempted a backflip and went a bit big off the jump and managed to cut myself in half on the lift cable. Now I'm dead and all I want to know is when I will be climbing 5.13's again? It's boring up here.

How is it up the coq right now... would the southwest side of Yak make for a good snow climb this weekend?

It is awful in the summer but I think it would make a fun line in the spring time.

sledding is scary