cheamclimber

Why???

I went to Elbow Lake on the chehalis FSR today to see what the climbing there is like and it is SWEET! I did an overhanging sport route right near the beginning of the trail but there is so much there to do. Does anybody have any idea if there is a guide book in print for this area?

theres a crapload of snow on the mountains in the valley right now...down past Elk even.

I took the picture because I liked the Pi Pillar, but we were on the flat part of the west ridge when I took the photo.

I took this beautiful photo of the sun risinf between the South peak of Rezford and the actual mountain. Tell me what you think!

cool, that will be on my list for sure then. It can't see being super difficult when its all frozen together, thats when the Cheam Range is the best.

thanks a lot guys. also..has this ridge has a winter ascent yet?

thanks for the pic, we were way off at the very bottom of the dihedral and out to the left.

Ok, me and my Dad were in runners and just looking around. We went just left of the dihedral and went to a big rock horn but still didnt see anything. The rock horn is just out of the pic to the left of the centre.

I scrambled to the base of the climb to day but never saw a bolted station. Where is the first bolted belay?

Hey, the guidebook says that the NE Ridge of Cheam Peak is only a Class 4...but I looked at it just a while ago and I thought that It looked much more difficult than a class 4. How accurate is the description in Fairley's Guide?

Trip: Mt Reford - West Ridge Date: 9/8/2007 Trip Report: I joined the BCMC trip up Rexford on September 8-9, It was great...we did it as an overnighter and a couple other climbers and I did the North Ridge of the North Nesakwatch Spire too. A great trip and a great area!

I very much agree!!

Apparently he was the most experienced member of the group as well...must have been awful to be there.

The area is easy to find though and the climbs are very obvious.

Heres the report on the accident: http://alpineclub-edm.org/accidents/accident.asp?id=612 It's an unpleasant sounding slip.

and isnt Pig Pen a bit harder than 5.9?

Yes, the Falcons Crest is 6 pitch 5.9 and A1 I believe (its the big giant cliff you see from the road) and theres some other 3 pitch climbs on tyhe East Wall to the right of the cliffs in the pics.

that look a lot like Mt Hozomeen in Manning Park Area

what?

Hey, does anyone know what the NE face route is like on the ABP

Oh, I read that the route was called Motley Crew (5.9+)

Here's some pics from Harrison Bluffs, the area is being cleaned and re-bolted and is absolutely awesome. I'll post more soon!

Trip: American Border Peak - Southeast Face Date: 9/15/2007 Trip Report: Ever since I saw the Border Peaks from Mt McGuire three years ago I wanted to climb them, so when I was looking through the BCMC trip schedule and found a trip going to the ABP I instantly joined. We met in Chilliwack at 5:00 AM and drove up the Tamihi Creek FSR until we could drive no more, then we walked up the road until hitting a spur road at 5,000 ft of elevation. From the end of the spur road we bushwacked through forest and some slide alder for a while until we reached a large scree slope below the ABP. We dropped our big packs and set off up a ridge of trees heading up to the SE Ridge the people in the front went around a small grey bluff by the trees but Me, my Dad and another climber named Andrew thought that the bluff looked simple enough and would be faster than going through the trees. The bluff however, was the cliff of death because rocks were constantly falling on top of us and just about killing us. Once managed to get up the cliff alive we moved into the trees and scrambled up to the ridge were we scrambled across East facing Slabs made of awful choss. But soon enough we were off the slabs and scrambled along the face until we reached the "great chimney" me and my Dad soloed thw chimney (5.4) and the climbers that used ropes came up shortly after. From the top of the chimney it was a quick scramble on the ridge to the summit and we waited for the rest of the group to join us before heading down. Overall the climb was just a scramble except for the chimney, most people who are confident on rock could probably just solo up and down the chimney but ropes are advisable if you dont often climb 5th class in the Alpine. Also I recommend doing a two day trip (like us) because the area is so spectacular.

Thanks..that helps a lot. I'm really excited for this climb!