ColinB

So I found this stuff called Peronin. Pretty much pre-digested edible food-like substance so you don't have to divert extra blood to your stomach to bother with things like digestion. Anyone on here used it alpine climbing? Seems disgusting but potentially useful. Here's a link. Peronin

That means that pretty much every TR of Ivan's in EPIC. Also, don't diss the taco till you've seen it. It could have been a bear taco.

Geo-tectonically speaking, California would drift south and Washington would drift north if Oregon didn't suck so bad. And you're right in the middle of suckola You suck worse than your avatar photograph. I hope you get goat inflicted sex herpes WOW, got issues? Corgis, and he hates Oregonians? Obviously problems.

Situation resolved. Woo. Everyone enjoy their sunshine this weekend.

I've finally got more than 4 free hours and am looking for a partner for this weekend. I'm in Portland but mobile if necessary. Prefer tools to bare hands, but am open to possibilities. WA Pass, Stuart, Illumination Rock, etc. Drop me a line at colin.bohannan@gmail.com

In a passage from "The Philosophy of Risk" Jeff Connor describes a scene in which a client, who was over-the-top full of himself blathered, "I did this, and I did that" hoping to impress Dougal Haston with his accomplishments. According to a witness Haston "was just standing humming away quietly, and the guy stopped for a while, and Dougal butted in: 'No, tell us some more about how great you are.'" My god, spray is awesome.

Drive to Banff/Canmore. Its an hour more than Bozeman and well worth that hour. Locally, there's ice off of Cooper Spur but its a long walk for something that is probably buried by new snow now. The north face gullies are probably more snow than ice now, even when it is ice, the ice isn't harder than 3/3+. If mixed is your game, there's plenty of climbing on Illumination Rock but its all trad protected. The rime on I-Rock should survive at least until the end of this month. I hear rumors of ice out in NE Oregon but there's no official guide to the area or any such. Good luck out there!

Flamethrowers you mean?

Snargs? Fuck yes. Old skoooool.

I've got a pair of this year's BD Punishers in size large with only 2 days of ice climbing on them. Larges are too big on me; I switched to down to mediums and have this extra pair lying around. 50 bucks takes 'em. Shipping is on me. Locals get priority because its not a pain in my ass that way. -Colin

pjc, with searches further back in time it helps to narrow your search criteria down to a single route so it don't overload the search engine. Good luck with the climbing adventures. You might like the Sandy HW or Cathedral Ridge. Far far away from the crowds.

I haven't seen any Converge yet... [video:youtube]

Whats the pro like? Screws, pins, nuts? Too bad weather rolled in... Congrats on finally getting the line done. A few of us were gunning for the same route on Thurs and bailed because we didn't like the snow stability.

Trip: Illumination Rock - Northern Skylight - II M5+ Date: 3/4/2010 Trip Report: Thursday morning, Daniel Harro, Nate Farr, and I climbed another line on the north (northwest?) face of I-Rock. No idea who's climbed it before or if it has been climbed, not that it matters much. 2 60 meter pitches starting about 100 ft left of Skylight Direct (or about 250 ft left of Skylight). The 2nd pitch had some burly mixed followed by half a pitch of mostly vertical rime. Much more ice than in December, but it was mostly rime with some good sticks in runnels and cracks. Decent gear the whole way, most of it being cams. So much potential on this mini-alpine crag! Daniel leading up the 1st pitch at dawn, right before knocking off a torso-sized block. A boatload of mini-alpine fun. Having two people second makes for better photo opportunities. Myself starting up the 2nd pitch. Daniel fighting his way up the crux. Daniel about to top out on the last bit of steep rime. Gear Notes: Cams to 3", handful of nuts, small selection of pins, 1 picket, 2 screws (not needed) Approach Notes: Walk up under the ski lifts.

Obviously the type that comes with a cat.

What about the Grivel Lil Monster? http://www.libertymountain.com/shop/product.asp?p=6844&pg=2&c=801&o=0&s=5 No experience with them myself, but just an idea.

Too bad the 10th Mountain Division doesn't ride bears into combat.

I'm with you on this. Its 50 degrees and raining here. EPIC WEATHER FAIL.

Tools are sold.

"Our address is our production facility. We don't have a retail store front. That said, CiloGear's "visiting hours" are on Wednesday afternoons from 3 to 5 PM. Please feel free to stop by and visit us during those hours." http://cilogear.com/info.html That said, Climb Max also has some of Cilogear's packs.

Got a pair (one hammer, one adze) of BD Rages. I switched to Vipers and don't need an extra pair of tools lying around. Great solid pair of alpine tools. Asking $175 or best offer. Buyer pays shipping. Preference to local buyers, but don't be shy.

So, ice has arrived. Any word from folks on how the Monster Picks/Quantum/Matrix Tech tools preform?

I second davidk's comments on the 20L Worksack. Its an amazing lightweight and comfy design that I haven yet to notice on my back when climbing. Cilogear's packs obviously have intelligent and thoughtful design behind them, especially in the materials used in their design.

Illumination Rock on Mt Hood -Skylight II M5 -Skylight Direct III(?) 5.10 AI4+ M5 (?) Way more possibilities if you explore the side facing the Reid Glacier.

Ice screamers sold, 8 mm taken, but the other 2 screamers and sabretooths are still for sale.