ColinB

Good to meet you out there! Glad you folks got the Moratorium. Looks like you had a blast.

I've got a pair of older step-in Sabretooths(the black ones) without anti-bots. 50 bucks. 3 Yates Ice Screamers. 10 bucks each. All 3 for 25 bucks. 2 Zipper Yates Screamers (the ones wrapped in yellow). 10 bucks each. 30 meter 8 mm dynamic rope. Free to anyone local who wants it. Don't climb on it or at least lie to me when you pick it up. Its 6 years old and I wouldn't trust it. Buyer pays shipping if you aren't local to the PDX area. I'll put up some photos tonight. -Colin

Kickass routes you guys got done. It was good to meet y'all in Bozeman. BTW John, that camera sure took some purdy photos. Congrats on that.

One thing to note is that the heat loss when matching hands or using your tool in high-dagger with the Viper is pretty intense. Taping up the grip helps but tweaks the swing a bit.

My thoughts exactly. We should be allowed to make potentially fatal decisions. Its part of the life process, not time for the state to have a say. In regards to rocky joe, I have only rarely seen copies of the wilderness permit available at Timberline and have never heard of checkups on left permits. My understanding of them is that they are there as a reference for climbing route plan and equipment for rescuers only after someone else (family, etc) has called for a search.

Kickass! Good to see some folks out enjoying this weather.

1) About the same 2) Its super easy to find partners even for easier stuff and most people are really friendly there. There's a bulletin board in the campground that is used for finding partners and lost gear. 3) There aren't really (m)any easier sport climbs in J-Tree. Almost everything is gear. 4) What you mentioned should be fine. Its usually easy to look up a route and guesstimate what you'll need. 5)One 60 m is fine for almost everything. There's one classic 5.9 in the Wonderland of Rocks that's 2 pitches, but most folks don't do the runout slab finish and bail with 2 ropes. Can't remember the name of it. That's about it that needs a second rope. 6) Load up on water and beer so you don't have to leave every day or two. 7) Your books should be fine.

Trip: Illumination Rock - Skylight - II M5 Date: 12/3/2009 Trip Report: Last Thursday, Nate Farr convinced me to play hookie with work to get some local climbing in. There was no ice on the south/east aspects of I-Rock, so we dropped around the backside and found great conditions. We climbed 2 full 70 m pitches up and through the skylight, then a short bit of rime to the ridge on top. Rapped off slung horns down the South Chamber. A marginal 1st anchor lead to great thin ice & mixed climbing with good gear. Nate enjoying the moderate climbing. Took a picture of the screw to prove we placed it. Thin corners were a treat. Nate stepping out onto the 2nd pitch. Almost up in the skylight. The view down the 2nd pitch. Pulling through the last corner into the skylight. The quality of the climbing and protection surprised me. I had heard rumors of Illumination Rock climbing being worth it and its all true. Thanks to Nate for letting me follow him up such a stellar route! Gear Notes: Cams to 3", handful of pins, 1 picket, 2 stubbies, and a few nuts. Approach Notes: Walk/skin up under the ski lifts.

Screws are sold. Gloves and axe are still around.

Nice job up there! Good luck on the recovery. How long till you get to go out climbing again?

bump

The Spinners are available already but BD is regularly running through their stock of them. Special orders or reserving them through shops is the easiest/only way to get your mitts on a pair it seems. If you're in Portland, Climb Max just got some in and had a couple left after special orders.

Here's some gear that I don't use/have replaced already that I'm letting go cheap. Locals get preference, but I don't mind shipping it either. BD Ice Gloves XL used 1 season - 40 bucks + shipping Some wear on the trigger fingers from doing that whole climbing thing with them. Go figure. 2 BD 13 cm Ice Screws - 20 bucks each + shipping Minor cosmetic rust on the hanger of one. Some sharpening could do em good. BD Raven Ice Axe 70 cm - 40 bucks + shipping Don't really use this ever, so might as well pass it on.

The science building is getting a major (multi-year) overhaul/retrofit and is largely fenced off now...

Thanks for the good ideas from you all, especially shapp and kurthicks. Back to the searching I go. But now I have real places to go find.

So I hear that the stuff exists. That's about it. Where does one go to find more info on Strawberry ice/stuff in the Elkhorns/ice in the Wallowas? My meager Westsider brain cannot conjure up data alone. Any help is appreciated. Finding more ice in this state sure seems like a novel concept. -Colin

Gonna be representing PDX Friday through Sunday.

You ripped half the Screamer, not half the sheath/rope, right? Sounds invigorating.

WTF. I thought the dead bird already was overpriced menswear.

Hot damn! Nice work. Puts our climbin' on the west side to shame.

@pdk: Yup, pretty much just a big sheet of it. I think its all gonna turn to slush before more snow comes, so hopefully we won't get shafted by it.

@dorianlee: The Old Chute is super icy and steeper than usual. There was a team of four from out of town downclimbing it when we got there and one of them fell about 400 ft to the snow bowl right next to the western fumerole. Somehow he managed to not snag a crampon and go ass-over-teakettle. Only a few scrapped knuckles, but he bent his aluminum ice axe trying to stop himself. Lucky day for him.

Trip: Mt Hood - Reid Headwall Early Season Date: 11/1/2009 Trip Report: Yesterday a few of us local Portland boys went up to check on the west side of Hood and gang-soloed the Reid Headwall. The rain turned all the recent snow into slush that froze solid overnight into stellar early season ice. Moderate ice for over 2k feet. Fucking stellar. Calves and hands are sore today. The weather should hold and the ice should be in tomorrow if anyone can get their ass up there. You can stay high on the Reid and don't need to rope up to get over the 'shrund cause there's a huge bridge over that. Here's the photo stoke I know you want. The start of the Reid HW Clamboring on up I-Rock in the dawn light Ice looking might fine Neat clouds on the way down High res copies can be found @ Reid HW Photo TR Thanks go out to Michael and Skander for such a fun trip! Michael kept his zombie facepaint on from the Halloween and it survived all the way to the summit. Cheers, Colin Gear Notes: 2 tools for sure. Brought 30 m rope and a bit of pro. Didn't need any of it. Approach Notes: Ski lifts...

No, I'm discussing Calvin and Hobbes.

http://metaphilm.com/philm.php?id=29_0_2_0 Discuss.