tvashtarkatena

I'll take it to work on my roof. Just drop it off at mine sometime between 3 and 4 today. TIA.

Bring your dog to the beach, too. [video:youtube]I2MzfWbVUbo

Anchor off the horse and re-ascend.

Always a pleasure to get your TRs.

Blake Herrington, ladies and gentlemen. Bear n ice.

Getting out with your friends and a camera: Not complicated.

Sounds complicated.

BTW, a dead horse dropped from Snow Creek Wall would have the kinetic energy of a 6 pound cannon ball fired point blank at a baby's face.

I'm just fuckin wicha, dude. I know what you meant. But 9.8 isn't all that fast in the acceleration department. Can we dodge them? YES WE CAN. Christ, I DODGE THEM. Think about it.

or descend at 9.8 m/s. The roof is not aidable?

Well, in that case just kill Kenny.

In general, exactly what I said, which, in one specific case, is exactly what you said. There is always the option of tying two ropes together, rapping and swinging to a climbable crack or route below the roof, ascending a rope length back up on top rope, anchoring, then having the top guy pull up a rope length and double rap to you. Why is this party blindly rapping over giant roofs again?

Once more, with feeling: Falling things don't travel at 9.8 m/s^2. They accelerate at 9.8 m/s^2. They can be travel at any velocity between zero and terminal (or faster when ricocheting) I've dodged a fair number of rocks, doing all of the above you say is impossible in the very limited time available, so proof is in the doing, I guess. Sure, fast moving rocks from high up can sneak up on you. They are the exception, however. Most rocks bounce around, or don't come from that high up, and are quite avoidable if action is taken. If full cover is available, take it. If not, track and dodge. A 5" dia chunk of granite at terminal velocity has the kinetic energy of a round fired from an AR 15. At that point or larger, it doesn't really matter whether it hits you in the helmet or the face, so don't let it hit you. Perhaps a climber's not always as focused as a batter, but climbers get pretty tuned in to the sound of rockfall, and react pretty quickly, a lot of times not even consciously, when the shit comes down.

re-ascend until you can swing to a new anchor, move anchor, descend, repeat until dead or down. Is this a trick question?

It's not too fast at all in most instances unless you're in a coma. Of course you're gonna take cover, but I've dodged a lot of rocks that way, and I've got the reaction time of a traffic cone. I'd be dead about 3 times over had I just 'ducked'. Batters dodge baseballs traveling at 3/4 terminal velocity all the time. Pretty much anything bigger than a basketball is going to kill you regardless of whether you're face up or down, so you might as take an active part in avoiding it. A softball sized rock traveling at terminal velocity will take your head off, helmet and all. In addition, not all deadly rocks are moving at terminal velocity. A 2000 pounder sliding at 20 mph will do the job just fine. BTW, 9.8 m/s is pretty slow. I think you've got 'velocity' confused with 'acceleration (of gravity)', which is 9.8 m/s^2. Rocks can travel at any velocity up to terminal (up to 75 m/s, depending on shape). The Baby Jebus helps those who help themselves. Track and dodge.

I've had problems with Snoseal solidifying and cracking at low temps. Then when the temps warm up, water gets through. That was years ago. Don't know if the formula's changed or not. Apply your Nikwax, then hit the boot with a blow dryer (without delaminating anything). It should last a long while. Delamination, of the protective outer rubber for example, is a common cause of leaking. You can repair any delaminating of the protective rubber with Shoe Goo by wrapping electricians tape round and round the entire boot in the delamed section as a clamp. Clean first with alcohol and a Q tip.

I use this Nikwax product on both leather/synthetic boots and it seem to last a good long while, better than anything else I've tried, anyway: link I also clean any abrasions on my Charmoz's fabric with alcohol and tamp it down with super glue. Really extends the life of those light and fast boots...but they do eventually look like Hell in the process.

I did a route near the SW face in '88 with some Russian exchange climbers and the rock wasn't too bad. The rock on the FT Traverse side famously sucks, however.

...and zero whiners as friends. All the world loves a complainer.

It's not so much that I want a new car, it's more that I really, really want to trundle my current one.

The crux was at the TH, when Don finally convinced me not to trade up to the new Subaru parked next to us with the keys sitting on the front tire.

DOES IT ALWAYS NEED TO BE ABOUT YOUR BALLS, PEOPLE?

Trip: Colfax - Date: 9/6/2012 Trip Report: Mr. Brooks and I braved weather, moats, a deadly labyrinth of crevasses, and dirt to finally conquer Colfax yesterday. THIS is what two indomitable spirits can achieve when they face off with Mother Nature in all her fury and just say YES, WE CAN. SLIDESHOW Gear Notes: A wiffle bat for the two mice who fought all night over Bugles crumbs in my front seat as I attempted to sleep in the back. Approach Notes: THEM'S THAT DIE WILL BE THE LUCKY ONES

That was my dog. He was just being obedient after I issued the command to "sic pack". Not all humans are like Raindawg: and not all dogs poo in other people's shoe. If the crag scene frosts yer tits, take em to the hills. It'll be one less dick on the dance floor to have to deal with.

REI: You'll hit it, but don't admit it.