Crillz

I couldn't get myself to make the jump to a netbook in lieu of a notebook. Check on the cost of good internet and factor that in too. Good luck - this type of thing is a pain in the arss. I don't think running any of those programs at the same time will be quick.

That's an ok deal, but that processor is weak sauce. Good enough for making spread sheets though. It's still fairly expensive to get a minibook with really good performance = $1K+ I just bought a new notebook and had to settle for a 15" screen to keep the cost down. Look into Intel's new itype chips - they can be more "green" too. If you need a machine for more than surfing the web and checking your email, you may want to reconsider the netbook idea. They're not sufficient for most work/office usage - YET. My opinion after pondering my purchase for a while.

Just lieback that shiznit. There's no bear hugging.

Whatever floats your boat man.

We don't need to monitor no stinking volcanoes! Hell, we don't really need to learn anything because godz will save those of us who trully believe.

Not worth the extra weight. Single rack through #4 BD should be good.

Also to add to the real OP's question: The orientation of the autoblock device will have an impact on how easy/ hard it is to pull in slack. Too low and pulling becomes difficult.

JosephH, usually I find your posts pretty ensightful, though I don't always agree with them. This has got to be somewhat of a troll. It feels as one of those - I'm set in my ways, I'll be dead soon, so I'm not going to change anything, even if it can be better. Using the autoblocking device, can be extremely useful in multipitch situations. I think it makes belaying two followers safer in certain situations (though you don't climb this way, many do). Also, it makes the act of belaying more enjoyable without reducing safety - example, I've been in many hanging belays where I've wanted to lengthen/shorten my tie in (I generally use the rope only). This process is much safer, and easier if you can take your hands off the rope.

What's climber's left of Timberjack? (Timberjack is that one with the offwidth at the top right?) It was pretty dirty, but if it got cleaned would be a pretty good route. I remember some thin moves to a hard lieback, and then into a squeeze chimney. My shirt got ripped up from that chimney.

What 5.7 feels like 5.9? Just curious.

The concesus between the 2 people that I know who have climbed it is 5.9. Wait... What climb are we talking about? baa

Anyone in the know? Is it wet? Heading over shortly from Seattle. Should I be more prepared for aiding?

Tolling is supposed to start in Spring of 2011. The tolling system is supposed to be similar to the one that's used in the carpool lanes on 167. I couldn't find any information on the possible toll charge on the DOT website. Anyone drive on 167 without the good-to-go and get a bill in the mail? Is the fee the same? Is a stamp required to mail it in? I didn't look up the bill that passed, but have heard that the money collected from the 520 toll doesn't have to go to the 520 bridge project - WTF. Also, thoughts of tolling I-90 to get bypassers has been talked about. The only conclusion I have come to so far, is that work totally SUCKS!

Best get me a #6 cam right away.

Wow! Fauk Yeah!

I had a blue Petzl, 10.3 I think. It was sketch after one season. I could pinch the rope between my fingers and fold it in half like a piece of cardboard. Fuzzed like crazy too. Always had static shock syndrome after rapping.

That's part of growing up. Not against the law. Maybe biking on US2 is illegal? I have no idea, but I don't recall seeing people biking on it much, if at all. If it is legal, I guess the oinker was just being a douche. Biking hwy 2 is totally legal. Maybe because he's underage? Or maybe he didn't have proper reflectors and headlight? http://www.wsdot.wa.gov/bike/closed.htm Shizzle. He didn't have his papers! That's all.

Don't know the legal status either. I've seen bikers on it well past the towns. Everytime we drive home on Hiway 2 there's at least one punk-looking kid or dirty old guy cruising on a bike. Usually wearing black or camo clothes, somewherez near Goldbar. Come to think of it, there's always some dude on the side of the hiway by Goldbar that reminds me of Rambo First Blood when Stalone's strollin' around town.

Oh snap! Best chance is for the chains under the roof though. You donate another 3 hundy and I promise by the end of the year. The Index shirts are pretty pimp. I've been sporting mine around.

$$$ I may have to check out this crack next time I'm in the area. How's the setup for a TR? Biggest pro I have is #5 BD.

I've fallen on a green C3. The cam held, but one of the lobes dented a bit, and it was close to being fixed - I would guess a fairly low force fall. Recently, I fell a few times back to back on a Metoliuos #00 - short falls, but near the deck, nothing happened to the cam. Sometimes it's pretty hard to see into the tiny crack and see all of the lobes on the small cams. I'd think if one lobe isn't as engaged the other two get all or most of the force, mix in a slight rotation, and I can see the lobes getting beat-up.

First of all, 1 in 20 is 5%, not 30%. Also, do cams really need to be "set?" That sounds weird. Sure, I'll tug on a cam sometimes to make sure the placement is good, but I don't really think it's getting "set," nor do I think that the simple act of tugging on it makes the placement more secure. Why would it? I can only think, by tugging, it could get the cam to bight a bit and ensure that enough friction is in play to let the cam do what it does - push outward. I rarely tug on cam placements. If you place them in front of your nose (not always possible), then you can pretty damn well tell if they're going to hold.

Did you try shoving your leg as far as in the crack as possible, then pull your foot out, forcing your thigh to expand in the crack? If the knee was only good for balance, more thigh in the crack should do the trick. Then let go of the stack and use your abs to hold you up. I've never done Carnival, but I've played around with wide cracks and the levitation technique really does work! "Similar" to what he said. I think it's called a knee-lock. You pull your foot outside of the crack and it makes it super secure. You can remove your hands using this technique. It works for me for about #5 and #6 C4 size. Check out widefetish.com

Ouch. You could see that inverted fall coming. The dynamic belay was probably helping that alien hold a bit. In this Roger's Corner case, it does sound like a bad judgement on gear placement. The hard moves on that climb protect really well with #.75-#2 cams. Again, hope he's ok. I think if 1/3 of "good" cam placements failed, people would be decking/getting the chop every week at Index, no?

Hope the climber is ok. Summitdude - Sagitarrius is f*n burly - no shame in being pumped on that one!