denalidave

BTW, how has the Via Ferrarta ruined our lifes? I still have yet to run into a genuine one. Sure looks like there is plenty of rock left without them. Seems to me, in a hundred years from now, your great grandson's protege, will dig up the remains covered in the big blast of aught-twelve. This archeological discovery may prove to be as important as finding the lost ark.

I've noticed you gone off and gotten all growed up since ya got hitched a while back... Yer spray is so tame and calm. Pink not stirring pot, WTF?

So, back to an earlier question: would you care to discuss how unrestrained sport-bolting jives with a leave-little/no-trace ethic subscribed by most every other outdoor sport? - "Raindawg" Just for the record, I don't support grid bolting and also believe in bolting as a last resort. I place plenty of gear and clip plenty of bolts too. I've seen first hand the problem of over-bolting and routes put up in places MOST of the climbing community would not endorse. This does not in itself make sport climbing evil. It is always on a case by case basis. (IMO). Wasting my a time beating a dead horse is fun exercise and should help me on my next proj, dude. Once I heal up and can actually climb again...

Seeking attention today? I'm actually off to the wet mountains....late...for some exercise, so I'm going to keep this short for now. As repeated numerous times here: 1) From my perspective, I advocate "clean climbing" which is the practice of leaving as little trace as possible of your passing. I don't know how old you are so I don't know if you were even around or interested when that concept took off. A version of this is practiced today by probably every outdoor with an exception being sport-climbing. Bolts should be FEW and a last resort and each one should require ethical contemplation as to its impact. From my perspective, lines composed solely of closely-spaced bolts are irresponsible. I think it's better to leave the rock alone then to "create" such a "route". Do you think I'm the only one who thinks this way? Why are their bolt and power-drill restrictions in Joshua Tree and many other places? Have I ever clipped a bolt (cue the childish smokescreen ad hominem attack). Who hasn't? But they are perhaps best justified as fixed belay/rappel/top-rope anchors to avoid an accumulation of even more garbage. And as a rare publicly accountable last resort. Do I climb sport climbs? (routes solely composed of closely spaced bolts) No. I don't. I boycott them for the reasons described above and encourage others to likewise do so. Is sport-climbing fun? No doubt! Convenient (and profitable!) in so many different ways. Driving a dirt-bike around the Wonderland Trail would be fun too...but again there's a principle involved. Another popular comment around here: the "it's all good", "get with it, everyone's doing it", "it's here to stay".....blah, blah, blah. That's really, really shallow. I thought I'd keep this short but looks like I lost half an hour of outdoor time....so I'm outta here. So, back to an earlier question: would you care to discuss how unrestrained sport-bolting jives with a leave-little/no-trace ethic subscribed by most every other outdoor sport? - "Raindawg" P.S. You clearly didn't understand my point about rehearsal but I have no time for this. Instead, you may enjoy this picture from the Mt. Rainier web-cam c.11:20 AM today: It took you a half an hour to come up with that? I thought you were a super intellectual type. Have fun in the hills. Be sure to walk all the way there and only eat foods that were provided by nature along the way. Otherwise, you are still part of the problem and leaving a trace in the form of more pollution in our mountains. I'm sure you already considered your eco-footprint while you walk the distance (in 4 ft of snow - both ways)in your home made Moccasins/clothing that you whipped up from bear skin off the bear you killed bare handed . Go hardman, go. We worship your dedication to such a pure style of living. Someday, we will all be so cool, if we can keep up with you. Then again, I'm sure no climber will EVER live up to your rigorous approval standards... You will surely find something that makes even the most trad/old skool climbers less than you and your ideal. This strategy will keep you on the top of the pile and the holiest of the holies. At least in your own mind, anyway.

Sure about that? [video:youtube] I love cherry pie! What's not to like?

WHO LET THE DAWG OUT??? RUFFFFF!

Yes, so true... Training, or repeating/practicing is the root of all evil and there is no way one could improve overall climbing skills with this horrid tactic. We should not practice in any other arena or discipline in life either... When we send soldiers off to fight in a war, practicing over and over back at base camp is cheating and only dumbening down the soldiers to the lowest common denominator. We will only be hard, when everything in life is onsite, unrehearsed and fraught with danger.

Well? At least throw me a Scare Bear if your too scared to answer a simple question, Dawg... Maybe he is just off pioneering a new ultimate alpine route and far to busy to waste time talkin trash?

On the contrary Dawg... You, among the other usual suspects, espouse this altruistic "ethic", which is always out of reach of the "ordinary" climber. I really don't believe the climbing community is for grid bolting every piece of rock in the world. Yes, bolts should be limited, and only when gear cannot be had, and also only when it will have the least "permanent" impact on the "wilderness". I'm just curious if you, Dawg, have ever, in your climbing career, clipped a bolt? If so, why was that/those bolt(s) acceptable, when the rest are trash? Where does Dawg draw the line? Serious inquiry. Inquiring minds want to know.

Just eat em. That's what we did back in the last century (I know, most of ya'll were still suck'n mum's breast back then) but we could not afford to waste any calories cause we had to carry a rack made of real iron and just get'n to the crag usually took a week or so, going up hill in 3 feet of snow...

Just eat em.

I'm so thirsty for YOU, WATER, YOU!... Hick-up!

I'm so thirsty for YOU, WATER, YOU!...

FREE SOLO OR NOTHING, that's the way is should be. THIS F'ING SPORT HAS BEEN SO DUMBDEDED DOWN, IF YOU FALL YOU SHOULD DIE. THIS IS THE ONLY WAY TO PRESERVE OUR HERITAGE, AND KEEP THIS ELITE ACTIVITY FOR ONLY THE MOST DESERVING, COURAGEOUS AND GIFTED ATHLEETS. NOT TO MENTION OUR ENVIRONMENT... SURE WOULD KEEP THE LEARNING CURVE TO THE LEASTESTEST DUMBDEDED DOWN. ROPES ARE FOR SISSIES!!!

I guess the moral to the story might be: A) Anyone that clips a bolt has no business climbing. B) The world will never see any "real" climbers again, now that bolting has taken ALL the challenge and danger out of climbing. If you climb hard nowadays, even if you place gear, you musta cheated your way up the dumby-gumby system and only do well with "artificial" means of ascending a chunk of stone. C) There is absolutely no rock left in the world worth climbing if it requires a/some bolt(s). And, even if if there were, placing bolts would ruin the challenge and danger from the climbing experience. D) All of the above.

Yeah, hard to beat the strength to weight ratio, the challenge is of course, to still hike that shit after puberty and adolescence. Have seen that turn more than couple of hikers into wrestlers until they either bailed or put in the work to recover as young adults. A drive up Boulder Canyon says it's just getting warmed up. And hell, U.S. via ferratas are only just birthing but no doubt will be starting to branch out in the coming years (can you say Infinite Iron...). They both appeal to a demanding, risk-averse demographic that will not be denied in the coming decades. Can't wait for the day sportos are bitching about via ferrati. Except it all keeps coming true, or at least it has consistently for the past three decades. I don't expect the next two to be any different. Perception is reality...

I'm often ascared when I climb. Whether I am looking down at a bolt fall, or a trad fall, the further away I am from that bolt, or personally placed piece, the more ascared I get. Course, I was as bout as dumnded down as one could be afore I started climbing, which is prolly what drew me to the sport in the first place... In spite of numerous falls/injuries early on my climbing "career", I was still dumb enough to keep at it and now might someday get me an official Dawg-Care Bear Badge. Come on Dawg, throw one of us little guys a bone already. I'm hungry for a hamburger. Better yet a BACON cheese burger...

when the rains set in, I dream of Bacon slabs frying... Serenity now, serenity now.

who said anything bout a metifer, I thought we was talkin trash?

Back in the olden days, when I learned how to drive, we did not have fancy seatbelts, air bags, or high tech computers. We took our lumps and shook off the dust when we crashed. Nowadays, these young punks can drive "safely", dumming down the driving experience to the lowest common denominator. Course, we always drove uphill in 3 feet of snow, too. I'll be damned I'm gonna roll that way. Seat belts are trash and an entire waste of resources...

Trashie, DUH!

Holy shite, now that's aiding! Nice!!

what dog-repecting non-sporto-head climber slums around in or-e-gone anyhow, dood? thought you were pretty much the scene 'rouuuuuuund here! steins was well worth the trip - if'n i dragged you along could we keep you sober enoughgt to rig that sweet looking tyrolean? I climbed Beacon Rock, everyone tells me it's the best climbing in Oregon. Pretty sure you can even call it a pinnacle. If I dig through my files, I might even have a photo.