lazyalpinist

We used a new #5. Judging from the OP, he is hoping not to buy a #5, which I'd assume if he was buying one would be new, not old #5. New #4 was a little shaky in the bear hugs.

I'm average. The climbing on the bear hugs was not difficult and was short (10'?) But the cracks don't really take gear smaller than a #5. (There is a spot in the back of the left crack where you can get a #4 in but that is due to a loose flake making up the difference in size.) When entering the bear hugs, you'll have a small cam at your feet IIRC. So depends on how comfortable you are with the climbing. PS, we used the #5 on the flake pitch as well. (Although not needed there.)

Probably not the thread for this (as it is someone's TR...) but... I don't have good approach info other than park and walk toward mountain. (It is literally less than 2 miles from car to summit.) I believe the road is open now, but I am not sure. Not sure what you are looking for in ratings? I'd say all are a Grade I, and snow to 50°. Perhaps some 3rd/4th class rock depending on conditions. (I climbed Lover's Lane in February and there was some WI2 on it as well.) Prefer a rap to a walk off? Most people walk off the other side or return down The Zipper skiing. There are rap slings near the summit on a small tree if you feel the need to rap off the summit. You have to cross the creek, how is decided by the conditions and you. And The Zipper is easily done car to car in 5 hours.

Depending on mounting of the finished product, I'd buy a couple.

I got mine at the OR store.

Gene's got the right description. You rapped into the gully that can be downclimbed. Pic from the top of correct gully: [img:left]http://lh3.ggpht.com/_93XPnSTQ19w/SyU8BCT51LI/AAAAAAAAJHo/zfwRFSZ34mM/s512/IMG_9058.JPG[/img]

Alpental I+IV are running water. From my crappy binoculars, Humpback looks blue and under snow. But, hard to tell for sure the health of it.

Sold.

Two BD Turbo Express Screws. Used 2-3 seasons. One 22cm and one 19cm. $30 each. Prefer local (Seattle) sale. [img:left]http://lh5.ggpht.com/_93XPnSTQ19w/Sz7HLVZ1LCI/AAAAAAAAJcI/5f24uOMUIx4/s640/IMG_9210.JPG[/img]

That's sleeping in the car, not in a tent right?

I'm hoping to be in the area Nordic skiing for a few days. Looking to go cheap and not needing 4-star accommodations. Wondering if there is cheap or free car camping in the area? Of course the national forest says all their campgrounds are closed, but are they accessible? (Many Washington campgrounds are similar, but you can often park a car off the road and walk in a bit.) I don't expect water or open bathrooms, but if there is an independent campground that would be good too. Thanks.

How did Lover's Lane look?

Too much traffic? That argument has no weight. You can skin all day on the other side of the highway, no problem. A major snowshoe hiking area too. So a few extra skinners isn't a traffic issue. As far as the unregulated lift, well that could be a reason all of the resorts have. Many upper lifts at the resorts are unregulated and if you skin in to them you can ride them all day without paying. I can see this as a reason the resorts are fighting for uphill closures. I totally oppose an uphill pass. On another note, Alpental bombs the valley. Which is not part of the ski area. (I haven't been to Bachelor, but I believe the upper bowl is not either.) Many guidebooks advise you to talk to Alpental Ski Patrol before doing fun things up the valley in case they are doing avy work. You know, so you don't get shelled. If this was truly an issue with avy work safety, then us skinners should be proactive and check with ski patrol before heading up. (Hey, I'm like you, I don't wanna tell the cops I am going out to break the law either but...) The patrollers I've met usually are not bad people. They might be miffed because you got first tracks and they didn't. But perhaps if we are more proactive, they won't think we are poaching lifts etc. and it may cut down on restrictions.

Just did this climb yesterday. It was fun. And fatter still. A bit of slush on top from the few centimeters of snow that fell Sunday night. Were able to sink plenty of long screws. I think the issues with the walk off have to do with snow accumulation. If you look at the FA pics, there is little to no snow on the walk off. Plenty on snow the rock when we did it yesterday. Without the snow, it would be more obvious and a litle less sketchy. We actually followed fresh goat tracks back to the base of the route. Pics show the fat third pitch and snow on the walk off. [img:left]http://lh3.ggpht.com/_93XPnSTQ19w/SyfalnydYyI/AAAAAAAAJO0/k9iab8mNgl0/DSCN2809.jpg[/img] [img:left]http://lh6.ggpht.com/_93XPnSTQ19w/SyfX8TWtRMI/AAAAAAAAJNQ/a_Fs8rXC32I/s640/IMG_9116.JPG[/img]

I've owned both the Spot (original) and the Spot II. Spot II is significantly smaller, lighter, uses AAA batteries (like my headlamp and avy beacon) and is more useful. The Spot II is supposed to have better connecting ability too. (A major complaint on the original spot.) I haven't been using the Spot II long enough to make an accurate assessment about its connectivity. I think the Spot II is worth it for the battery compatibility alone. Of course if your headlamp takes AA batteries... Unlike the original, the Spot II has the ability to send two different non-emergency messages. (Like "I'm OK" and "Don't wait up we'll be home late.") They are whatever you choose, so one can be "too drunk to drive home from trailhead" or whatever. Then there are two help messages. One to family/friends that is more of a "need assistance" sort of message. Then there is the 911 button for the real emergencies. My wife and I bought it for piece of mind and to eliminate mixed signals on when to call in a passed due party. And, at $100/year it is about 1/4 the price of an annual cell phone plan. (And I never seem to have cell coverage until we're back on the highway.)

Alpental Falls Fatter in some places, but lots of running water behind them and sometimes on top. Lead most of Alpental IV yesterday. Someone with more skill, shorter screws and more screamers would have led it in better style. Hitting them earlier in the day means less sun damage. (Drop back into shade around 3pm.) They got fatter from Monday to Wednesday, so I assume the same is going to happen before Saturday. Stuff in the woods, and non direct sun climbs were fatter. Last pic is a few lines we found in the woods left of the falls. [img:left]http://lh6.ggpht.com/_93XPnSTQ19w/SyEwWE1AkfI/AAAAAAAAJDw/WWyByu5RtYU/s640/IMG_8980.JPG[/img] [img:left]http://lh6.ggpht.com/_93XPnSTQ19w/SyEwVeyzU1I/AAAAAAAAJDs/tQr29fRkVVE/s640/IMG_8978.JPG[/img] [img:left]http://lh5.ggpht.com/_93XPnSTQ19w/SyEwUdju_-I/AAAAAAAAJDk/Y_B-OTqb8bc/s640/IMG_8975.JPG[/img]

Weather looks like it isn't for climbing (rock) from Tuesday on. I'm available Monday depending on what you are looking to get into I may be interested. PM me.

I'd buy one.

In that line of thought, I've marked yellow circles on peaks I might like to add labels to since they seem to be emphasized. ANyone care to take a gander at what they are? -Steph Top should be Whitechuck. I'll second the Booker note. And I think the one near Marblemount is Big Devil. Not sure about the others, but it is possible that you have Crater mislabeled. Check the map, those two lakes (Jerry Lakes) are on Crater and fed by the Jerry Glacier also on Crater. Best I can tell what you have labeled Crater is Point 2056 on my map. (Why is it in meters?) BTW, I've loved your TRs this summer, and a very fine labeling of the map too!

Being I'm the opposite like of what you like. (Like KKKKK said stay away from Islay or other island Scotch.) I prefer them. You don't have a location, so I don't know if this is helpful... But there is a good Scottish pub in Seattle. (St. Andrews) They have 30+ single malts there. You can easily go in and say I like "this" can you recommend something? And will produce a glass. Also, they will give you a wee dram to sample before you buy a neat glass of it. Although, I was watching travel shows on PBS, Burt Wolf was doing a distillery tour, where the guy at the distillery said single malt should always be drank with water.

Trip: Observation Rock - North Face Date: 9/2/2009 Trip Report: Just a conditions update. The face is in crappy condition. The current look of it makes me think it will be a rock climb in 2020. Ice and snice rule the day. Lots of water running on the upper face. Lots of mud and dirt. [img:left]http://lh6.ggpht.com/_93XPnSTQ19w/Sp_mc9lLWYI/AAAAAAAAIao/0OxwXTg6Lok/s640/IMG_8139.JPG[/img] [img:left]http://lh6.ggpht.com/_93XPnSTQ19w/Sp_mfQfZUrI/AAAAAAAAIa0/LnFHxL71eLk/s640/IMG_8144.JPG[/img] Gear Notes: Rope, screws, pickets, two tools Approach Notes: Took Knapsack Pass. More interesting.

Why are you getting rid of these and the Miras?

Same here. I've heard many horror stories about the blue Asolo plastics from REI.

Check this out: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=898328 Looks like more rock than snow/ice right now.

I think Layton gave you the best info so far. (Especially about C3s not holding their placements.) I mostly agree with Layton, but prefer DMM or WC nuts to the BDs. (Don't know which is lighter.) And the DMM and WC standard nuts anodized colors match the colors on the DMM offsets. I guess if money is no object, 2 sets of cams is a good idea. I usually make do with one set on most climbs and compliment with partner's pieces if we need doubles/triples. Of course, you could buy one set of C4s now, and wait for the DMM Dragons to arrive to have a set of doubles. Also, I find if I bring a #4 C4, I'll find a place for it, but that doesn't make it worth always carrying, just worth owning. I usually pack it if a route says gear to 3-4".) If I know there will be a lot of gear belays I bring tricams pink>brown as well. (But truthfully, I don't bring them that often, and place them even less it seems.)