lazyalpinist

Just did this climb yesterday. It was fun. And fatter still. A bit of slush on top from the few centimeters of snow that fell Sunday night. Were able to sink plenty of long screws. I think the issues with the walk off have to do with snow accumulation. If you look at the FA pics, there is little to no snow on the walk off. Plenty on snow the rock when we did it yesterday. Without the snow, it would be more obvious and a litle less sketchy. We actually followed fresh goat tracks back to the base of the route. Pics show the fat third pitch and snow on the walk off. [img:left]http://lh3.ggpht.com/_93XPnSTQ19w/SyfalnydYyI/AAAAAAAAJO0/k9iab8mNgl0/DSCN2809.jpg[/img] [img:left]http://lh6.ggpht.com/_93XPnSTQ19w/SyfX8TWtRMI/AAAAAAAAJNQ/a_Fs8rXC32I/s640/IMG_9116.JPG[/img]

I've owned both the Spot (original) and the Spot II. Spot II is significantly smaller, lighter, uses AAA batteries (like my headlamp and avy beacon) and is more useful. The Spot II is supposed to have better connecting ability too. (A major complaint on the original spot.) I haven't been using the Spot II long enough to make an accurate assessment about its connectivity. I think the Spot II is worth it for the battery compatibility alone. Of course if your headlamp takes AA batteries... Unlike the original, the Spot II has the ability to send two different non-emergency messages. (Like "I'm OK" and "Don't wait up we'll be home late.") They are whatever you choose, so one can be "too drunk to drive home from trailhead" or whatever. Then there are two help messages. One to family/friends that is more of a "need assistance" sort of message. Then there is the 911 button for the real emergencies. My wife and I bought it for piece of mind and to eliminate mixed signals on when to call in a passed due party. And, at $100/year it is about 1/4 the price of an annual cell phone plan. (And I never seem to have cell coverage until we're back on the highway.)

Alpental Falls Fatter in some places, but lots of running water behind them and sometimes on top. Lead most of Alpental IV yesterday. Someone with more skill, shorter screws and more screamers would have led it in better style. Hitting them earlier in the day means less sun damage. (Drop back into shade around 3pm.) They got fatter from Monday to Wednesday, so I assume the same is going to happen before Saturday. Stuff in the woods, and non direct sun climbs were fatter. Last pic is a few lines we found in the woods left of the falls. [img:left]http://lh6.ggpht.com/_93XPnSTQ19w/SyEwWE1AkfI/AAAAAAAAJDw/WWyByu5RtYU/s640/IMG_8980.JPG[/img] [img:left]http://lh6.ggpht.com/_93XPnSTQ19w/SyEwVeyzU1I/AAAAAAAAJDs/tQr29fRkVVE/s640/IMG_8978.JPG[/img] [img:left]http://lh5.ggpht.com/_93XPnSTQ19w/SyEwUdju_-I/AAAAAAAAJDk/Y_B-OTqb8bc/s640/IMG_8975.JPG[/img]

Weather looks like it isn't for climbing (rock) from Tuesday on. I'm available Monday depending on what you are looking to get into I may be interested. PM me.

I'd buy one.

In that line of thought, I've marked yellow circles on peaks I might like to add labels to since they seem to be emphasized. ANyone care to take a gander at what they are? -Steph Top should be Whitechuck. I'll second the Booker note. And I think the one near Marblemount is Big Devil. Not sure about the others, but it is possible that you have Crater mislabeled. Check the map, those two lakes (Jerry Lakes) are on Crater and fed by the Jerry Glacier also on Crater. Best I can tell what you have labeled Crater is Point 2056 on my map. (Why is it in meters?) BTW, I've loved your TRs this summer, and a very fine labeling of the map too!

Being I'm the opposite like of what you like. (Like KKKKK said stay away from Islay or other island Scotch.) I prefer them. You don't have a location, so I don't know if this is helpful... But there is a good Scottish pub in Seattle. (St. Andrews) They have 30+ single malts there. You can easily go in and say I like "this" can you recommend something? And will produce a glass. Also, they will give you a wee dram to sample before you buy a neat glass of it. Although, I was watching travel shows on PBS, Burt Wolf was doing a distillery tour, where the guy at the distillery said single malt should always be drank with water.

Trip: Observation Rock - North Face Date: 9/2/2009 Trip Report: Just a conditions update. The face is in crappy condition. The current look of it makes me think it will be a rock climb in 2020. Ice and snice rule the day. Lots of water running on the upper face. Lots of mud and dirt. [img:left]http://lh6.ggpht.com/_93XPnSTQ19w/Sp_mc9lLWYI/AAAAAAAAIao/0OxwXTg6Lok/s640/IMG_8139.JPG[/img] [img:left]http://lh6.ggpht.com/_93XPnSTQ19w/Sp_mfQfZUrI/AAAAAAAAIa0/LnFHxL71eLk/s640/IMG_8144.JPG[/img] Gear Notes: Rope, screws, pickets, two tools Approach Notes: Took Knapsack Pass. More interesting.

Same here. I've heard many horror stories about the blue Asolo plastics from REI.

Check this out: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=898328 Looks like more rock than snow/ice right now.

I think Layton gave you the best info so far. (Especially about C3s not holding their placements.) I mostly agree with Layton, but prefer DMM or WC nuts to the BDs. (Don't know which is lighter.) And the DMM and WC standard nuts anodized colors match the colors on the DMM offsets. I guess if money is no object, 2 sets of cams is a good idea. I usually make do with one set on most climbs and compliment with partner's pieces if we need doubles/triples. Of course, you could buy one set of C4s now, and wait for the DMM Dragons to arrive to have a set of doubles. Also, I find if I bring a #4 C4, I'll find a place for it, but that doesn't make it worth always carrying, just worth owning. I usually pack it if a route says gear to 3-4".) If I know there will be a lot of gear belays I bring tricams pink>brown as well. (But truthfully, I don't bring them that often, and place them even less it seems.)

I seem to remember someone this past Spring (before the closure) posted something about a descent off the other side. It involved one or two raps and seemed to be a much nicer option. I did a few searches and couldn't come up with the info. But there was a thread about it a while back and I cannot find it...

Trip: Three O' Clock Rock - Silent Running Date: 8/3/2009 Trip Report: More of a note of conditions. Route was in good shape. Seemed a touch dirty after t-storms probably hit the area. Nuts on the top two anchors were loose. (A few nuts here and there were loose on lower anchors, but not as obvious.) Tightened the nuts on the top two anchors as best I could with fingers, then nut tool, but they could use a legitimate tightening with a ratchet/wrench. Just a note if you are going up there. Gear Notes: Nut tool used as wrench. Approach Notes: Great shape.

I have a pair of Venoms. (64 adze, 57 hammer) First, I'd like to say that the 64cm Venom is not lighter than my 75cm Raven. So take that into consideration. I'm 6'3", and the 64cm(longest) Venom often won't touch the snow on mellow angle glacier. (If I just want to use it as a cane.) Not a big deal, but might be a factor. I often use a 57cm Venom for ski mountaineering as I hope never to take it out, and it is lighter than the 75cm Raven. Also doesn't stick off the pack at all. Like said earlier, the classic pick is hard to remove from ice. If you plan on doing any alpine ice with it, they are a little nicer with the tech pick. Also, I noticed they recently changed the design. Don't know if the new design is lighter, but they definitely modified the grip. After only a few trips, my grips started getting a little beat up with just walking. Hopefully the new grip cures this. If you don't really plan on using them as a pair and for ice, I'd also recommend looking at (if you can find it) the Grivel Air Tech Evo. Similar shape, forged steel head. (one piece) And it is lighter than the Venom.

I think CCW makes a nice pack, but their standard sizes don't fit me. (I'm 6'3") FF and Marmot usually stock them if you think they might be the answer. Anyway I'll agree with other posters about BD packs. They're fairly light, won't break the bank but are not built to last. I have a few and they take some punishment, but do have a shorter shelf life. But I'm not complaining as they cost me around $100 each. I use a slightly older BD 50L Predator for up to 3 days. I don't really go out climbing for longer so can't help you with larger size. It fits me well and climbs and skis good too. For day climbs I usually use a smaller 40L pack. And for BC ski trips it is an old NorthFace.(37L) Straight up backpacking over 3+ days I have an Arc'teryx Bora 65. Super comfy, but weighs twice the 50L BD pack. No personal experience, but I know some people who have the Wild Things Andinista and rave about it.

Trip: North Twin Sister - West Ridge Date: 6/19/2009 Trip Report: Too much rain and we turned around at 5000'. No pics either, but wanted to update peeps on approach conditions etc. The Mosquito Lake road bridge over the Middle Fork Nooksack is closing Monday 6.22.09 until April 2010. Judging by the equipment in place, it looks as if they are building a new bridge. So plan accordingly. (Come in through Deming, not Acme.) The logging roads have been freshly graded. (They were doing it while we were there.) They're in really good shape. Someone noted last year that they regraded the turn off road at 2.5 miles. True. There is also a nice newer bridge over the creek on the regraded road. Everything else seemed status quo. Gear Notes: Goretex Approach Notes: Freshly graded roads.

Ivan, you don't need to cloche. I can't be bothered, and I can pull jalapenos off the plants 1-2 everyday once the plants get going. Great for breakfast, lunch and dinner. And while the plants don't appear to be growing this year, I got flowers on the cayenne already. And for the rest of my garden report: Already have pea sized cherry tomatoes on the plants Beans are calf high with leaves the size of my palm All the onions (NY early, Cippolini, WW) are doing grand Leeks just plugging along, but not like the onions I should be able to start harvesting carrots in 4 weeks or less Broccoli coming along fine Potatoes (all blue) are out of control and knee high! Tvash: How do you know when to harvest the garlic? We planted some back in October, and it just put out bulblets last week (which I promptly cut.) I can't tell when to harvest without actually harvesting them to see what they're up to.

Don't know who stole your food, but around 2am Friday morning we saw a cascade fox above 9000' near the Fuhrer Finger. Must be critters up there to keep him fed.

I know the Mountaineer's Bookstore (Magnuson Park) usually has some copies.

Trip: Gold Creek Valley - Gold Lake Drainage Date: 2/15/2009 Trip Report: On Ground Hog's Day my friend Steve and I were headed out to find the route Josh and David climbed: "The Conquering Floormat" However, we didn't locate it as we headed up into the woods too early. After crossing several avy chutes/gullies we came across one that had climbable ice. However, temps were high that week, and it was already late in the day, so we climbed the first pitch and bailed, as it was a major terrain trap. It wasn't until we skied the gully back down to the trail that we noticed how close we were to "The Conquering Floormat." Looking at it then, and having read Josh's trip report since, I can say that I wasn't up to leading it. So, I went back this Sunday with Peter, and we gave the Gold Lake Drainage route a go. The route is short steps interspersed with flat 'pools' and snow gully sections. It had a alpine flavor the higher up we went. We were able to muster four pitches out of it, with the potential for more. We made an unfortunate decision where the gully splits around 3800' to take climber's left branch which went up one more step and stopped in 25° snow. The right branch had at least two or three more ice steps in it. I would bet it could be followed right up to the lake about another 500' vertical or so. Ice was variable, and mostly thin. Plenty of hollow sections, plenty of sections with water running underneath. Chandeliered at times. Some sections with bomber ice. Lots of sections with a snice coating over better ice. Deep wallowing powder in the pools. Decent was some down climbing (hiking) and two raps(one 30m, one 60m) off skier's right of the top. I would say the route was WI2, about 200m. Probably a grade I If you were bold enough to try out the right branch to the lake, you would be looking at a grade II. The route: (February 2 photo) Top of second step looking down: Gully split: Gear Notes: Screws and screamers. You had to look hard to place anything longer than a 19. Upper pitches we could tree belay. Two tools. Approach Notes: Park at Gold Creek SnoPark. We followed the trail/road in past the houses, then turned right just before the "no fishing" sign on the trail. Ascend the gully until you reach the icier bits.

A jacket. Email me a description and we can work out the return.

Beta here: http://mountrainierconditions.blogspot.com/ (Although I couldn't find Muir specific.) Possible better beta here: http://www.turns-all-year.com/skiing_snowboarding/trip_reports/index.php?topic=10896.0

Better than what you got so far, but not great. I haven't been that way, but this is from the DOT mailing list Monday morning: The first day of fall brought snow to the North Cascades. While the air temperature at Washington Pass at 1 o'clock this morning was 37 degrees - it was below freezing about a thousand feet higher and the precipitation that started falling came down as snow. By 6 a.m., the freezing level had dropped to 5,000 feet and the temperature at Washington and Rainy was down to 32 degrees - low enough so the 2 inches of snow that had fallen in the previous six hours started sticking on the shoulders. By 10 a.m., it was 41 degrees, but still snowing off and on, according to our maintenance crews. The pavement temperature is still 46 degrees, so nothing has stuck to the driving surface, but there's some slush. The forecast says we can expect an inch or two of snow today, but it will turn to rain on the westside by tonight(none on the east) as the freezing level starts rising for the rest of the week (up to 9,000 feet by Wednesday). Telemetry indicates that the temp at 6600' was below freezing on Tuesday, but above freezing the rest of the time. I'd be willing to bet that snow will melt in the sun, but probably will remain on routes that are shaded.

Called a Flemish Bend. (Essentially a rewoven figure 8.) Supposed to be easier to untie after loading than a double fisherman's. Also supposed to not get snagged as much. I haven't used it enough to determine the snagging, and how much are you loading a rap rope anyways?

Uh, I doubt it. The earlier part has huge berms that would be motoX doubles if they were built correctly. Dirt was loose on them. My partner (a former MTB racer) was not interested in riding the big berms. I think the rest of the overgrown part would work fairly well for bikes if it was cleaned up. Some of the drainage crossing might be portages, but the rest is a roadbed.