Julian

I'm wearing a pair as we speak that I got while I was up in Raleigh. They were actually discounted down even more than the 117.83 on the tag, and I was also allowed to apply the 20% off coupon to them. I ended up spending $70 on them, and bought some extra pack straps with buckles to use as a belt for them (and another pair of soft shell pants I have). Great pants and the Schoeller Nanosphere fabric is awesome. I haven't yet had the courage to subject it to any of the abuse they show on the test videos though (honey/ketchup/red wine/etc.), to see if it really will just rinse off with water. The Raleigh REI also does something they call the "perpetual garage sale", so they have a garage sale rack that they restock continuously rather than doing the big one-day events. I got an Arc'teryx Theta AR jacket for 9 bucks (retail $500) that has a small rip in the back I can repair with tape and seam glue.

No-stink synthetic hoodies: Outdoor Research is on the freaking ball right now with their Radiant hybrid hoody and it's slightly beefier jacket cousin, the Centrifuge. I own both and they make a really flexible, highly technical layering system with a great fit. Full-length zippers can be an upside or downside depending on your perspective (I personally like them). I've worn both extensively between washings on some high output activities without any noticeable smell developing. Each has a well designed hood that fits easily and comfortably under a helmet, and I suspect the Centrifuge at least can be stretched over one (although I haven't tried that). Both use OR's Radiant light fleece on the side panels and underarms for superior breathability in those areas. The Radiant hybrid has a thicker version of the fleece fabric on the main body, while the Centrifuge uses a wind and moisture-shedding hardface fabric on the front, and has the light fleece fabric on the back. Brian Harder at getstrongergolonger.com turned me on to these items via one of his blog posts and I'm incredibly pleased with the results. http://www.getstrongergolonger.com/journal/2011/11/22/zipper-modification-for-light-gear.html [img:left]http://c632628.r28.cf2.rackcdn.com/470x500_52181_195_33.jpg[/img] [img:left]http://c632628.r28.cf2.rackcdn.com/470x500_56125_941_28.jpg[/img]

One other nice use of a cordelette is that if you are short on gear you can always tie it into an appropriately-sized knot and jam it for pro.

Rolo Garibotti managed to get possibly the greatest ensemble of climbers to ever collectively put their signatures to anything in support of the de-bolting: http://www.climbmagazine.com/news/2012/02/cerro-torre-petition

Sold.

Still available since neither guy who PMed me has replied to PMs or emails.

Some routes specifically set up for drytooling.

"Look at this asshole climber" (LATAC) is a great variation on "Look at this fucking hipster" (LATFH).

For sale are two lightly used Petzl Aztars (approx. 10 days of use on both) which have been modified by Dane to take the Quark griprests for leashless climbing. Included is a BD Spinner umbilical leash as well as the two Petzl freelock leashes that come with the tools. The shafts have been wrapped in 3M temflex tape for extra grip. If you wanted to put on the traditional leashes it would be simple to either attach them to the tool head or unwind some of the tape to access the shaft holes. These are great lighter weight leashless tools for pure ice, especially if you have smaller hands. I've switched to BD Fusions and I'd like to put these towards materials for my home woody. Plenty of life left in the picks and I can sharpen them up before sending them to you. See cross-post at MP for pictures: http://mountainproject.com/v/fs-petzl-aztars-w-leashless-mod--bd-spinner-leash---250/107465480

One of my friends, who likes Patagonia's jackets (or at least gets them on pro deal) went to Alaska last year with a DAS, nanopuff hoody, and one of the older models (don't remember the name) as his insulated jacket selection.

Outside of the greater ranges I have a hard time believing there are that many conditions that are too cold for the Atom LT/SV combo. Also with regards to the comments about Arc'teryx's pricing, the Atom line is way below their usual price points and easily competitive with anything else out there of a similar quality. Patagucci's synthetic and down garments are not that much cheaper considering their inferior design and build. An LT/SV pairing would cost $450 retail and can be obtained at a considerably better price than that by shopping around or using Ebay.

"There is a reason the Patagonia DAS is likley the most used belay jacket ever producted." Advertising, sponsorship, and market saturation? I semi-kid, but there's also a reason Arc'teryx is kicking Patagonia's (and everyone else's) ass six ways from Sunday lately in terms of almost all design and cut related aspects.

The Atom LT/SV combo may be the best technical insulated outerwear system ever designed (whether or not Arc'teryx actually intended them to be used together). Both garments are designed and cut absolutely perfectly.

Rolo isn't mincing any words in support of them and ridicule of the whiners: http://www.climbmagazine.com/news/2012/01/rolando-garibotti-interview

I text messaged one of my friends who's in the market for Nomics to let him know about this deal.

A lot of those "locals" are just other foreign climbers living there for a portion of the year.

Rolo Garibotti does a pretty good job of dispelling the whole "locals" thing over on SuperTopo and other places. The city of El Chalten has only even existed since 1985, and almost all the "guiding" and other such services people have referred to are trekking/hiking companies or guiding up easy routes on the easiest mountains. By the way, in Kruk and Kennedy's statement it sounds like they were met with resounding approval from a group of Argentinian alpinists they encountered.

I'd love to have gone on a honeymoon where a Bora 80 would have been part of the trip. Good luck selling the pack, that's a good deal and I'd buy it myself if the wife ( ;) ) didn't have me on a gear allowance (probably for the best).

I really like the Black Diamond Xenos.

PM sent on 10cm screws.

Rather than re-posting and re-formatting the whole thing, I'll just link to my posting on MP: http://mountainproject.com/v/fs-bd-harnesses-montrail-ice9-m105445-armaid-various-soft-goods-arcornike/107348665

Can someone post a picture of this (or send it to me)? I'm certainly not looking to snag the FA (from down here in South Carolina ), just curious where this feature is and what it looks like.

Nice write up and photos, cool adventure! Good decision-making is worth more in the long run than any summit.

Didn't Steve Schneider also get into a fist-fight with Bean Bowers in El Chalten over bolt-chopping on Cerro Torre? Or is that a different Steve Schneider?

Damn nice deal, someone is going to jump on this quick. My rack is full with these sizes or I'd have sent a PM already, mostly looking for 13s and 10s.