ericb

or find out where he parks and take a crap in his parking space

Research paper or lawsuit?

Thanks for all the input...very helpful. So I´m about 2 weeks since my injury, and have surgery scheduled 3 weeks from Friday. I left for a scheduled vacation in Costa Rica (currenlty in CR)last Saturday and will not return until next Monday. I was just able to get my consultation with Zorn before I left thanks to a cancellation, and asked in parting what I could be doing pre-surgery to prepare. His PA mentioned stationary biking to recover range of motion, and straight leg quad raises to maintain quad strength....nothing about the hamstring. Perhaps they are assuming that I´m in pretty good shape already, and will not lose much in the 5-1/2 weeks between injury in surgery....who can say. I´m just now able to walk w/o brace comfortably, and am using the recumbant bike here at the resort. What else did you guys do pre-surgery to prepare? I´ve got five more days down here, and with limited facilities, and then basically 2.5 weeks in Seattle to do whatever I can. Appreciate any advice you can offer....Thanks!

Thanks for the input all....a friend of mine recommended Dr. Zorn, same practice as Holland, and the ortho for the Sonics. Looks like March 23rd for me unless they get a cancellation. He's a hamstring guy. Ryland - I think your fast recovery was as much due to personal factors as the fact that you used the PAT method. Generally there's not much difference in recovery times, although the PAT tends to be faster right out of the gate due to bone-to-bone bonding, the recovery curves converge at ~ the 4 month mark. I've had some mild patellar tendonitis in the past thanks to soccer in my youth, so given the risk of patella complications in the graft area, I've decided to go the hamstring route.

and apparently someone has his stapler

Conveying condescension through the written word is far beyond KB's writing ability

If by an act of God or whatever, a piece of ice breaks off and kills your partner when climbing. Is that poor judgment or stupidity? Please connect the dots for me Kevin (a figure of speech for help me to understand). How does your new and revised statement relate to my original post? The press - who is feeding this public frenzy about MLU's and Rescue Cost Recovery in Oregon specifically - is crawling this site looking for little gems and you guys are sitting around bantering about imparing yourself before during and after an activity that requires good judgement and fast decisions - and apparently Oregonians are particularly prone to this behavior. I realize that you guys seem to mostly be talking about rock climbing, and I think the press is focused on mountaineering, but I doubt many in the press or legislature are savvy enough to make this distinction.

AE....your turn to come up with a question from this statement - I'll be equally impressed

So.....if your climbing and on a bluebird day and a piece of ice breaks off and kills your friend next to. The temp was perfect for climbing, conditions were perfect. The only bad thing was God decided to take your friend that day......Is that poor judgement for stupidity? What's God have to do with this Kevboner?

Ironic that we're the same community that's trying to make a case to lawmakers that taxpayers shouldn't pay for our own stupidity and poor judgement.

all of us for that matter....I don't think I've ever laughed harder than when I read the story about his crampon incident. It's the only climbing board story I've ever read to my wife.

Near term, tri-mode phones are the way to go - which currently only verizon offers. They can receive an analog signal which gives them far superior mountain reception. The phones are being phased out as the analog network is being phased out, so this reception advantage may only be around for a year~ish. There's a very detailed thread from a few months ago discussing this very issue. The exact timing of the analog phase-out is a bit muddy.

i cook in any lofted insulation if I'm working hard, unless it is extremely cold, but that's me. Patagonia has a capilene 4 which is fleece inside but smooth on the outside, so this might not bind up underneath your shell

try a medium weight merino wool zip t....that should keep you pretty damn warm as long as you are moving.

I use a old SD for climbing (~3MP) and like it fine. My nicer cameras are too heavy to haul around. One thing to consider, that I have had issues with, (this and other cameras) is the camera getting cold and the batteries going dead. With this in mind, I think something to consider is getting a camera that takes AA batteries vs. rechargable manf. batteries, so if you they do go dead, you have other options. You can then carry a single set of extra batteries as a backup for headlamp/camera/gps, etc. or carry no extras and assume that you will not need all of them at the same time. Also, I've found that for climbing pictures, the single biggest thing I regret not having is a better optical zoom. Being able to zoom in on your lead climber way up on a pitch is pretty sweet We've got a powershot which takes great pictures, as well as a nikon SLR and both are very high quality. Here's an example of a Nikon that takes AA batteries and has a 5x optical zoom...much better than some of the canon offerings. I think canon's take great pictures but I think battery compatibility and optical zoom are very important features to consider as well. http://www.nikonusa.com/template.php?cat=1&grp=2&productNr=25550

I had the La Sportiva Trangos and I suspect I'm in the minority, but I didn't love them, and took them back. My principal complaint was that the same ankle flex that makes them really good for moderate rockclimbing left something to be desired on hard snow cramponing. I found the flex led to a lot of ankle fatigue/soreness on sustained moderate hard snow traverses where the natural foot motion is to roll to the downhill side. They are also not particularly warm, and although I've heard others say they served them well on glacier routes, I got cold feet. I ended up with the Garmont Tower....similar to the Trango, but slightly heavier, warmer, and better support. If found it works fine on rock up to mid 5th, beyond which I'd opt for rock shoes anyways. If you plan on spending more time on snow vs. rock, something to consider.

Klimber....you might think about softshell vs. hardshell pants. You can go two ways with pants...either get something that can be taken on and off easily, or get something that comfortable across a wide temp range so you don't have to take them off (important consideration if you are wearing a harness). I have a pair of Mammut (meteorite???)pants....very light nylon softshell (3xdry) with stretchier light shoeller knees. I don't think they make them any more, but got them at Feathered Friends. They are my most worn piece of clothing...love them. The are windproof and water resistant, and I'm less worried about fully waterproof on the bottom end. They are very abrasion resistant which is great for rockclimbing. Light waterproof shell pant tend to tear easily. I've worn them on a one day Prussik peak approach/climb/return to car in 90 degree temps and climbed the Kautz glacier to the summit with nothing else on...above or below so very wide temperature range. They were also pretty cheap (~ $90). I think there are a number of quality manufacturers with something equivalent.

Yikes!!!!! coug

ready, aim....

Just trying to back up my friends. I would hope, you would do the same. As for my experience. I do not have a lot of mountaineering experience. But lots of blizzard like conditions while skiing and back country skiing. I do know what bad weather is all about. Making decisions can be difficult. All and all it really does not matter what I think or you think. All that matters is nobody got killed. Including Velvet! If you are trying to recapture CC.com credibility for these folks, perhaps making it clear that they are friends of yours is not the best strategy

Ditto on Soles.....higher arch than superfeet, and more padding...especially in the forefoot which is nice on steep foot-pounding descents. I've found the arch is more similar to my orthotics, without eating up all the headroom. Ultimately, the best insole is the one that fits your arch the best, and this is best determined by (at a minimum) someone at a better athletic footwear store (shoes & feet, etc.). I've also brought some off-the-shelve in soles to my PT for guidance. As to the thread topic, my spin is that the "quiver of one" concept isn't the best in boots. I have two primary pairs, Koflach Degres for winter and volcano slogs, and Garmont Towers for summer/alpine.

Ryan. You must love to speculate. I suppose we all do in some fashion or another, because that is what you are doing. You were not there any more than I was. You say “simply taken a waypoint at the top of the Palmer lift and easily made it back down to Timberline” In bad weather, nothing is “Simple”. I would not have brought a dog on Hood, but Matty is my friend and I am going to back him up to the end. KB...if I remember correctly you yourself have admitted to having zero mountaineering experience....rock only, so is it fair to assume you know little about winter mountaineering??? That said, other than a personal connection to one of the parties, your defense should have little if any credibility here. I'm thrilled that you are finally attempting to contribute something of actual substance to this site, but I'm not sure that this is "your time".

good point...we climbers are a magnetic bunch

Been spotty on CC.com the last couple weeks, so not sure if this has been brought up, but I find it interesting that 6 snowmobilers died in avvys last weekend (many with beacons), and yet I don't see a whole lot of news chatter about regulations to protect slednecks....or really any press at all. Most of these guys started the avvys that killed them, but I don't see a lot of speculation about their judgement....going out in high avalanche danger, etc.

I'm looking for a good orthopedic surgeon....specifically someone adept at ACL reconstruction. According to an MD buddy of mine hamstring graft is becoming the preferred method, and from what I can tell, you are pretty much picking a method when you choose your surgeon. If anyone has any personal experience (pos or neg) with any local Docs, I'd love to hear about them.