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mountainmatt

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Everything posted by mountainmatt

  1. Carebear scare
  2. Nice work! Looking forward to seeing some pics
  3. That video took 45 seconds of my life that I can never get back. I hope your happy.
  4. This TR is turning into the spray section pretty fast. In the end, we did find the right ramp, the question is whether or not the route has changed or not. If any of you head up there in the next couple weeks, please send out a TR so solve the mystery...
  5. Teddy's glasses are aid...
  6. A lot of that section seemed to be washed away, but I may not be remembering correctly. There was a lot of debris in the area and the route may have changed a little during the winter thaw out. But since I have never been there, it will take someone else heading up there to confirm it. I have pics of the route and the surrounding area, however I can't seem to figure out how to put pics up. Lil' help?
  7. The mossy 5.7X was because we were on the wrong side. As we hadn't gone up the slabs, we were too far left (I didn't know this) and thought that I would go up the slabs to the left (my mistake).
  8. This is the exact spot in which we departed into the trees. There was no good way to get around the waterfall/slab area. I had intended on getting back to the slabs, but when we tried a few hundered vertical feet later, the dirt slope was a little too steep to get back.
  9. There were three washes that covered the road. The first of which was passable by a high clearance car (~0.9 miles from the road fork). I did not go up this route. The second wash (the one we went up) was where the road was impassable due to avalanche debris (tons of trees, dirt, rocks). On this route you could go several hundered vertical feet until the slabs were all covered in water (~1.3 miles from the road fork). When walking through the forest near here, I found an old nalgene as well as orange flagging tape near the road. The third wash was made almost exclusively of downed trees. I walked well up that route and found the slabs too wet and covered in moss to proceed (~1.4 miles). Did I hit the wrong start?
  10. I figure it was just some bad luck on my first time. The route looks absolutely spectacular though, I can't wait to head back for it
  11. Nice photos! Sounds like a good time
  12. Climb: Darrington-Exfoliation dome - Blueberry - Attempt Date of Climb: 5/14/2006 Trip Report: My girlfriend and I left late Saturday afternoon to head up to Darrington with plans on camping near the trailhead and heading up early the next morning to climb Blueberry on Exfoliation dome (10 pitches, 5.8). After a good nights rest, we headed up nice and early to the start of the climb which we had scouted out the day before. We went up the first section of granite slabs that were still covered with a great deal of pebbles and sticks from avalanches that came down during the winter. We made it to the next section of slabs that were completely covered in wet moss and a lot of water. When attempting this path, I fell and slid down into the steam. We decided to head for the woods and bushwhack the remaining portion of the approach. This turned out to be a really bad idea. Hundreds of small scrapes and branches in the face and a couple hours later, we were near the start of the route. We then started making our way up what we thought were the easy slabs to the start of the route (mind you that we were off route of where the trailhead lets you out). I decided to rope up just incase the climbing was harder than it looked. This turned out to be a good idea. 2 60m pitches later on what I would call dirty, sandy, terrible climbing (5.7 X) we were at the start. Unfortunately, we had wasted so much time in the approach that it was too late to start up the route. We attempted to get to the base of Westward Ho, but there was a great deal of snowing making the approach dangerous in trail running shoes. Gear Notes: Some slings for the trees. Wished I had long pants on. Approach Notes: The road was clear for a high clearance vehicle all the way to the start of the approach (where the road is completely destroyed by avalanche debris). If you do not have a high clearance vehicle, you will have to park where the stream washes through ~0.5 miles from the "trail" start. Climbing this route by bushwhacking through the trees is not recommended unless you have a great deal of spare time and enjoy scraped legs, arms, etc.
  13. Holy crap man! Glad to hear that you are ok!
  14. mountainmatt

    American News

    I couldn't even stand to hear her finish...
  15. Did something similar recently, this website was helpful: http://www.climbinginjuries.com/Finger.htm But basically, you have some rest time ahead. Good time to do come glacier climbs
  16. This movie is sooo bad, you will have problems finishing it. However, if you make it through, you will find yourself quoting it for the rest of your life. Best with friends and beer http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0251422/
  17. At least they got out and gave it a shot. I say kudos to all that gave the route a good shot
  18. I can't wait to see that film!
  19. That is a bad story, and I had something similar happen to me when I was starting to climb in Colorado. I got to the top of a 30 foot climb, looked back at the belayer and checked that they were ready for me to decend verbally. She said she had me, I leaned back and started to walk, which turned into a run until I hit the ground. I didn't move for a while to let the adrenaline settle. I ended up walking away with a limp (really bruised hip and thigh). Strangely enough, I had also worn my helmet which likely saved me from a concussion. Luckily I hit the the dirt, 2 feet to the left and I would have hit a pointy rock and it would have been a different story all together. When I asked the girl what had happened, she told me that the rope burned her a little, so she let go. Although I still climb 14 years later, I still grab the other rope when being lowered off unconsciously.
  20. Did the same, I think there will be a bigger voice of disapproval than Patagonia realizes. Perhaps such a stunt would have been better played out on the not so pristine faces at Mt. Rushmore. Either way a faux pas and a blow to the credibility of our sport and another "chalk one up" for land managers everywhere. I did the same, hopefully we will see some kind of response from Patagonia in the next couple days?
  21. If there was a question about access, he would have asked. He did this knowing in full that it was against the rules. What a rebel
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