pdk

Bill is right - knock yourself out with this stuff (or don't, as that's the point I guess)... https://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/index.php?category=275

I agree with the cross bike recommendation. I've steered friends that way as well for commuter bikes. But most cross bikes don't have dedicated rack attachments if you use a pannier system for commuting/errands. You can still get a rack/pannier setup to work, but its not as clean. Plus, no fender attachments. Re: made in the usa - very few bikes are made in the US anymore. Those that are made here are sweet, but really expensive. Forget about almost anything you'd encounter in a regular bike shop if you want to stick to made in the US. And I disagree with the mtb slick statement. No mtb w/ slicks can keep pace with a real touring bike on the road. I have yet to encounter any hipsters out touring, so I guess I can't comment on that.....

I'm sure you'll get a million different responses to your question. Here's my 2 cents: http://surlybikes.com/bikes/long_haul_trucker_complete/ I have one that I use for everything. Commuting, errands, road rides, centuries, touring, mild off-roading (forest service and gravel roads). It does everything very well, although it is considered a touring bike. I can't say enough good things about it.

Here's a good story for those who love them some PLB http://coloradomountainjournal.com/2010/01/26/rogue-plb-goes-silent/#more-983

What route is that? I bet i could take a strong position one way or the other on it.....

Im confused by what this means. Is your argument that it is overbolted for the grade or that it is bolted at all? Since it sounds like neither one of us has ever climbed it (and maybe neither of us is in a position to really judge it), maybe we should both climb it this summer and reconvene here afterwards. I'm perfectly willing to change my position if conditions warrant it.

"adequate" protection is in the eye of the beholder. If I can solo 5.11, does that mean every route graded below that should never ever be bolted? Of course not. I'm certainly not suggesting every route be dumbed down to the lowest common denominator. But I find it hard to understand why someone would want to take what would otherwise be a classic route that can be enjoyed by lots of people, and restrict it a few hardmen simply because it theoretically could be done in better style. Again, if I can solo 5.11, can't I simply not clip the bolts? Or do the bolts need to be removed because I personally don't need them. There are hardman testpieces literally everywhere, whether they've been done or not. But there are very few long bolted moderate routes out there for the everyday climber - the exact kind of routes people use as stepping stones to becoming that hardman we all want to be. Look at Prime Rib. I bet there are lots of climbers out there who would laugh at all the bolts. But there is a reason Prime Rib gets climbed all the time, and a route like Gorillas in the Mist sits unclimbed for years before someone gets the FA. I don't expect us to agree. But I'd like to see people climbing this exact route using absolutely none of the bolts before people complain about them. I just don't see that happening. But have at it, I think it'd go a long way in this "debate" if people were regularly doing just that.

You are right. The NR of Stuart is JUST like infinite bliss. I mean, just check out the splitter cracks on IB:

If so, I think everyone who criticized the bolts should be required to go climb it. Cause I'd put my money on it never being climbed again if they've been removed. Is it better to have an unbolted line that never gets climbed, or a bolted route that sees regular traffic and enjoyment? This is rhetorical - we already know everyone's position....

So where does the "X" in the rating come from?

You have too many jackets Dane.

TJ's Temptation trail mix. And cheese sticks.

Here is the response I got from Marko himself to my email calling him out on this. --------- Dear Donnie, Thanks for the message, it’s always good to hear what issues people are thinking about in our community. I am glad to hear that word is getting out about HB 2619, because I do think that public safety is an important issue. As you well know, thousands of people enjoy Washington’s beautiful mountain terrain every year, and each season, there are well-publicized cases where individuals are killed or seriously injured due to the dangers inherent in this type of recreation. Just a few weeks ago, there was a story from Mt. Hood in Oregon, where a group of hikers was lost for several days. The search and rescue efforts in these cases can cost thousands of dollars, and I want to make sure that we are using these resources efficiently. Kevin Stoltz, a local small business owner, shared with me a bill that was considered in the Oregon Legislature in 2007 that would help address this situation by requiring climbers in the most dangerous conditions to take along an emergency locator device. These devices are small and easy to carry, and in an emergency, they can help searchers pinpoint emergency situations immediately. They are also cost-effective, simple models can be rented for a few dollars a day, and they can be purchased online from dozens of retailers for around $100. So, since this seemed like a smarter use of public resources at minor cost to those people that are out enjoying our beautiful scenery, I decided to copy the Oregon bill and propose it here. I am not an expert on mountain climbing, but there will be a lengthy public process to vet this bill, and see if it is the best way to tackle this challenge. As for the conspiracy theories surrounding the bill, I have often gotten good ideas from local business owners and residents, this bill is no different. I will not personally profit from this proposal, I just think it’s a creative way to keep the public safe, and I think it deserves to be considered. Thanks again for the message, feel free to write me about this subject or any other one before the Legislature this session! All my best, Marko_signature === Rep. Marko Liias (D-21) Vice Chair, House Transportation Committee Telephone: (360) 786-7972 Toll free: (800) 562-6000 TTY: (800) 635-9993 Office: JLOB 434 Email: liias.marko@leg.wa.gov Website: http://www.leg.wa.gov/House/Liias Click to sign up for my electronic newsletter or copy and paste if no link appears: http://apps.leg.wa.gov/subscriptions/member.aspx?chamber=h&member=liias ----------

Doug, Nice work. I quoted you in an email to Marko calling him out on this.... marko@markoliias.com Anyone know someone in the news that could run a story on this? That'd be awesome.

Is this stuff you are producing? You've been mums about the new Aremet picks. What's the status?

CASCADECLIMBERS.com

There are MANY TRs for the North Ridge on this site. Judicious use of the search tool should produce what you are looking for without re-hashing the same old stuff over again.

presumably WA first reply is from OR typical cc.com That's ok - we have better mixed climbing down here anyhow.... http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/925973/Searchpage/1/Main/71362/Words/deer+hunter/Search/true/Gorge_Ice_2009#Post925973

Joe - my understanding is that you are wrong (no offense of course). Half ropes are not to be used as twins - for the same reason that single ropes are not to be used as twins - the impact forces are too high when you combine the two ropes together as twins. Really, neither half ropes nor twins should be used as the other - UNLESS - you have ropes that are rated as both. There are several rope manufacturers that make ropes that meet the ratings for twin AND half. I might be wrong, but at least the internets agree. http://www.rockandice.com/inthemag.php?id=8&type=gearguy

Do some internet research on "twin" ropes and that should give you your answer. Some ropes meet the standards to be both twins and doubles/half ropes. But otherwise, they are not interchangeable.

really? We went up on the 23rd to do the north face and got turned back by knee to thigh deep postholing. Nice work.

Mile O quoted me at 69. Asked for a "multi-day discount" (we stayed 4 nights), got it at 60. It was slow - christmas. 4Pines quoted 75, wouldn't budge on the multiple night thing.

Much thanks guys.

Spacing on the name of the place everyone stays at in Lillooet... anyone?

I believe in the case I'm referring to - yes, the injured person was saved as a direct result of timely initiating the rescue. I recall it being major injuries and the person simply could not have "crawl[ed] off that hill". I'll look for the link, but it got a very detailed write up on CC.com. http://sites.google.com/site/stephabegg/home/tripreports/washington/northcascades/pickets/southernpickets2#fullstory I'm certainly not advocating PLB's be required....just that they can be useful. I don't carry one.