counterfeitfake

Not really an answer, but I ran across an article on Climbing.com the other day that includes a blurb about this route: http://www.climbing.com/exclusive/features/index_279/index4.html

I will bet you Robert has cleaned more dirt and moss off Index granite than you have- especially since I saw the half-assed cleaning job you did on your hundredth ascent project. So, listen to him. Put on some humility and spend some time doing your homework and making friends. Right now you're making enemies.

SPRAY KING

Haven't we castigated summitchaserCJB enough already?

Friends climbed it last weekend... it went, but it was pretty gnarly with snow and ice making things difficult. I have another group of friends who climbed the East Ridge, which was apparently nice and dry and clean, but had an accident on the way down the WR and had a bit of an epic. Seems like it'll be in great shape pretty soon though.

The mystery continues! That summitpost page mentions a "Sumner and Heath" variation to gain the ridge, which sounds like what we did. I suppose that is the line Bill took on the FFA? Has no one a tale from the land of the Snaffle??

I couldn't figure out where Snafflehound Ledge was. The line must the 5.9 "Sumner and Heath" variation mentioned in this summitpost description. I think that is what we climbed. I did not understand that the B/S and B/D routes share the same final pitch...

What do you call the yellow line to the right of the Beckey/Davis and Burgner/Stanley?

It's actually really interesting.

He wants to know what your 8-pitch 5.10b was.

I think it'll work for some of it at least. The big spire looks like 6 or 7 bolts:

Okay, so I have a dumb question. (photo borrowed from olyclimber's tr) Where is Snafflehound Ledge?? I climbed the Beckey/Davis route the weekend before last- I think. I believe we followed the line in the photo pretty much exactly. We had this description from Summitpost as well as having read and taken a picture of the description in the Kearney book... I don't recommend this approach, as I think they describe two different routes. We started up the OW that is the first pitch of the Burgner/Stanley, hung a right, and assumed we'd be on target to begin the 5.5/5.6 pitches described at summitpost... instead we seemed to go mostly straight up on 5.7/5.8ish terrain. I thought we were lost, my buddy thought we were doing okay, he ended up being right as we wound up right under the 5.9 finger crack that leads to the notch in the summit ridge, and then the splitter 5.10 hand crack to the summit block. Both are excellent pitches. I didn't see no big ledge all day. Have you been to Snafflehound Ledge? What was it like? Did you get there through the back of a wardrobe, or by tapping the heels of your ruby slippers together? I feel very let-down that I could not experience the magic of Snafflehound Ledge. By the way, the photo is awesome, and it seems to have been taken from the outlet of Lake Vivianne, so that if you sit there in the afternoon you see exactly what is in the photo.

AHHHHHHH, now I understand... PG stands for PREVIOUSLY GREEN

nice that summitchaserJO's first crappy reply was left

I don't know why he is posting here when he already has his own thread

this: is harder than toxic shock?

It actually looks like it was a good hanger until it got whanged, I wonder what the story is.

I don't get it, I would clip any of those pieces. Surely you can do better than that for "sketchy".

Damn Sol, I think your wife is tough. Nate, I thought I'd mention it is now permit season. You probably are already aware. Also, if you get back to the car late on Sunday, there is nothing open in town, we drove to Gold Bar before finding a gas station. I really wished I'd stashed a red bull in the car for the drive home.

Please, stop.

I climbed the south face of Prusik the weekend before last. The hike in is about 10 miles (aaaand 5300 feet vertical gain...). We were loaded similarly to how you will be. The entire hike in took us under 8 hours. You could certainly do it faster than us. We hit consistent snow at Snow Lake, though it was melting quick. The lake is low, hike on the sand around the lake instead of trying to follow the meandering bootpack through the trees. There should be a solid bootpack from the lake inlet up Trauma Ridge, but when in doubt stay near the creek instead of heading uphill. How long do you think it'll take you to climb and descend SCW? I think your plan is totally reasonable, and a cool idea. Does anyone know if the bivy site at the base of SCW is legit?

wow! my fave so far:

SF Prusik was completely snow-free last weekend (8 days ago). The NF still had a fair amount of snow on it. We hit solid snow at Snow Lake. Hiking on the sandy beach is much easier than trying to follow the snowy bootpack. I saw a picture of the ICG on Saturday 6/12 that still showed a pretty major cornice.

Because all grades are relative and I generally don't like second-guessing other people who have climbed before me. But that's the easiest 5.10c I've climbed.

I feel bad about spraying this but I think the 5.10c on p3 of DH feels like Index 5.10a. The 5.10b off the ledge on LA was the hardest part of all 6 pitches.