
fheimerd
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Everything posted by fheimerd
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Beacon tomorrow anyone. Just got back from Stuart so a little cragging would be more my thing.
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Climb: Mt. Stuart-Complete North Ridge Date of Climb: 7/2/2006 Trip Report: Gear Notes: medium rack, two 8mm ropes, tennis shoes, light ice axe
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I woudn'tgo at that road with a suburu wagon...unless it's jaced up and has fat tires but I have heard that it has been done so make your own call on that one. We had a toyotoa truck and the road wasn't an issue. Another possibility is to hike an additional five miles in from the lower trailhead and skip the shitty road. Long approach but less risk on your car. The City of rocks was sweet. We climbed in the 5.7-5.10 range and ticked many sport and trad classics. M highlights were rye crisp, bloody fingers and My own provate idaho. Thanks to Jlag for taking me out the and showing me the sickness.
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can anybody give me a quick explanation on why my picture in the post isn't coming up and why I can't post a actual trip report in the idaho forum.
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Jlag and myself spent a few days in Idaho. We began the trip with three stellar days of climbing at the City of Rocks. Over the weekend things got hot and crowded and we decided to give the finger a try. We drove two to three hours to a town around Sun Valley and got some excellent beta from folks at the elephant perch climbing shop. Route photos, recent conditions and somebody saying go for it was all we needed. After the bumby road we reached the tailhead and started the hike. From the moment we left the car till the moment the sun went down we were attacked by swarms of mosquitoes. The initial plan was to walk in a few miles to the first lake but we ended up trying to escape the mosquitoes by going higher. We got to a few hundred feet below the climb and bivied there. The next day we hiked to the base and had our first look at the open book we would be climbing. There was a snow slope at the base but other than that the route was completely free of snow. It looked good, damn good. Before long we were jamming and laybacking up the open book on some of the cleanest alpine rock I have ever climbed. Before long we were out of the open book and climbing up the face to the summit block. This was my favorite pitch. Awesome double cracks, sun, exposure and a great view. The decent was a cinch and before we knew it we were sitting in lawn chairs cooling our feet in the creek and sipping on PBR's.
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I was out at beacon the other day, it's open and looking great. I would say it is in a whole different legue than either frenchies or broughtons.
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Megalight, Altimeter, Gloves, Nuts For Sale
fheimerd replied to sean_beanntan's topic in The Yard Sale
I'll take the haul bag and metolious nuts if they are still available. -
Adams Glacier Route Information Requested
fheimerd replied to SignoreSnello's topic in Southern WA Cascades
whats the appropach like this time of the year. Is the road to the th open. -
I found mine in a rock slide on the way to the north ridge of stuart last august. Those things are laying around everywhere.
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I'm heading out towards bend friday night I could drop you off if you can't find anything else.
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Hippos evil... Ah yeah now I remember who that evil hippo was. Way to get out guys. Sounds like good times.
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I was thinking of heading down the 20-26. You guys still looking for partners.
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What kind of climbing would you what to do. ANy specific objectives?
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Need a partner for a couple days within that time frame. Possible area squamish, north cascades, yosemite, Stuart, Forbidden, Patramigan traverse. Ski touring, alpine rock, or cragging all within my interests. Lead 5.9 trad.
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I'm going there 07 end of July august, put up some trip reports when you get back would love to hear more about the area.
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Was up at middle sister a few weeks ago. Good snow coverage to 6500 ft. The north side from the col looked like a walk up. North also had alot of snow but I wasn't up there so I don;t know the conditions. A couple of warms days next week should melt everything together though.
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I did the route earlier in the year under clear blue skies and a light dusting of fresh snow. Your conditions would probably have sent me packing. Way to get after it under not so ideal weather and still have a good time.
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Climb: Middle Sister-South East Ridge Date of Climb: 5/29/2006 Trip Report: My g-friend and I headed up to the middle sister SUnday afternoon. The forcast called for clearing and thn a sunny day Monday. We couldn;t have hit it better. We skied in as clouds lingered. Ran into Letsroll and Jlag on the way out. The had tales of stormy weather and large amounts of snow accumalation. Their report was accurate. As we left treeline towards Camp Lake the wind started blowing and the snow started falling. It was definately wintery. We reached the lake and heard some crazy banging of metal on metal. Turned out a group of geologists was taking a core sample of the lake and were busy pounding rods into the ice. Shit looked heavy. The next day the weather broke with not a cloud in the sky. Aplenglow on the sisters and fresh sbow everywhere. We skinned up the southeast ridge under sunny skies and over wind packed powder. COnditions couldn't have been better for going up. The last bit to the summit we hiked because it was a fairly narrow ridge. The ski down was awesome. Powder-windpack-softened windpack-soft windpack. The full range with some corn mixed in. The ski out was midly bewidlering but we made it to "oregon's best burger" by 6:30 and back in P-town by 10:00 Gear Notes: Ski, ice axe, map Approach Notes: trial, snow
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Seems like there is lots of snow out there. Broken top access would be a pain because the road is not open yet but why not. Depending on the weather definately bring snowshoes.
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This doesn;t have anything to do with clowns or speed traps but it might be a fun joke to play on a friend. I called some guy that I thought was selling a really nice patio set for 30 bucks. The craigslist add said something like first call gets the deal. Anyway I called the guy and he says he's going to kill his friend because apparently they posted this ad up there for him and he had been recieving calls all night for this patio set. This might go under "things clowns do for fun."
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anybody going out there this afternoon
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[TR] Sahale-Austera-Klawatti-Eldorado- Forbidden Traverse 5/12/2006
fheimerd replied to fheimerd's topic in North Cascades
The Klawatti was nice but we only made it as far as Austera peak. It seems like you could spend a couple of days up there touring glaciers and bagging peaks. The Mcallister looked like it would be interesting as well. -
Climb: Sahale-Austera-Klawatti-Eldorado-Forbidden Traverse Date of Climb: 5/12/2006 Trip Report: Myself, a swiss guy named andreas, and Alex headed out to do the Forbidden traverse. The first day was cool and clear in the morning but quickly warmed up as the day progressed. Some powder was found. The original plan was to traverse over Sahale and ski down the Queen Sabe to camp below the Sharfin-Forbidden Col. We got half way up Sahale arm and then decided to go directly to camp and bag the peak from there. Conditions on Sahale were good. The niext day we went over the Col and onto Boston Glacier. The chute up to the Col was snow-then ice-then rock. All fairly straightforward. Then up and over the toe of the north ridge of forbidden and down the forbidden glacier. 3500 feet of pure skiing bliss. We camped at Moraine lake and toured around there in the afternoon. That night we noticed a very warm wind was desintigrateing out snow wall. The warming trend of our tour had begun. The next day we went up the basin to the northwest along the ridge and up through a col to the Klawatti Glacier. WE then droppped out packs and skiied over to Austera. Very nice views. We skied back to the packs and camped at Klawatti col. The next day we kicked steps up the sof south face of Klawatti as the sun rose bathing Eldorado and the rest of the mountains in luminous alpenglow. This was the highlight of the trip for me. Then we skied over to and up eldorado down the Edlorado glacier down to the talus field. The upper field was covered and only the lower protion required scrambling. It wasn't to bad. The entire tour was spectactular. It was nice to do it in four days and have time to explore the area, climb peaks and soak up the ambiance. Pictures to come. Gear Notes: Skis, rope, ice axe, ski crampoons, crampoons
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I could go out sometime after 4:00 on Thursday. Anybody down for Broughtons Bluff? Frank
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still looking