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About climbinpilot

  • Birthday 10/29/1980


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  1. Has anyone been up the Jeff Park Glacier route on Jefferson recently that can lend a hand on potential conditions for this weekend? I remember the route was made very difficult quite early in the season last year by a bergschrund and am curious if the same has held true this year. Thanks
  2. Thanks for the TR, Roger. Sometime we'll return to PDX during normal gorging hours at Flying Pie.
  3. Climb: Mt. Jefferson-South Ridge Date of Climb: 7/6/2006 Trip Report: My partner had a family emergency the day before our trip, and I couldn't pass up the perfect forecast and midweek time off, so I decided to solo, joined only by Weezer on the mp3 player. I wanted to hit the Jeff Park Glacier route, but was told by another climber who'd been there the week before that the bergschrund near the top of the route was ginormous and spanned the width of the route, forcing a south approach for my first trip up this peak. I started at Pamelia Lake trailhead around 9:30 AM on the 6th, took the standard Pamelia Lake-Hunt's Cove-PCT route to Shale Lake (5900 ft.) and arrived early in the afternoon. The last mile or so of the PCT before Shale Lake alternated between bare and covered by feet of snow, making for tedious route finding here and there. Visibility was poor, it rained a bit and I hoped for a clear morning. Woke up around 2:00 AM to unlimited visibility and set out around 3:00. The route up was slogtastic, with firm snow punctuating scree. Got to Red Saddle, dropped the pack, and was happy to see that the traverse was in great shape. I made my way around to what looked like the 4th class scramble, and didn't hear a single rock fall. Call me lame, but there was a bit of firm snow on the way up the pinnacle, so I kept the crampons on and ax with me and frontpointed on the snowy portions up to the summit, arriving at 8:20. The view was unrestricted in every direction. Besides a guided group of two lower on the mountain, the place was mine to catch up on the Blue Album. I tiptoed down the pinnacle, back to camp, broke it, and was driving back to PDX by 5:00 PM. Beautiful trip. Looking south toward the Sisters, Three-Fingered Jack, etc. My tent between Mud and Shale Lake Enjoying the melodies from the summit The traverse Summit Pinnacle from near Red Saddle
  4. Gotta protect the dome! I've considered another helmet to strap around my waist to protect my junk after Roger got nut-blasted on Leuthold's. I'd been weathered off Leuthold's three times over the winter so it was nice to finally check that one off, and the ski descent was nice, but SEWS was definitely more pleasing to the eyes (and schnaz, for that matter). I'd like to try other routes on Hood. How long does the Sandy Glacier Headwall stay in?
  5. Lots of fun, dude. Thanks for driving and putting up the TR. Let's hit the requisite beer this week.
  6. Great trip guys, we'll definitely do it again. About time the weather cooperated, hey Roger? Mmm...sleep...my elusive pal.
  7. Partner just bailed. weather looks good. Anyone up for Leuthold's Couloir tonight? I'm in Portland, would be up for leaving Timberline around midnight. PM or Call (971) 409-9279 Bill
  8. esuji, I didn't make it to Leuthold's because I couldn't find a partner on short notice and wanted to do the route with someone else. I ended up soloing Shasta the following Monday, though, to make up for skipping out on perfect weather for Leuthold's. As far as going this Sunday, I'd love to but will be hiking the Grand Canyon with another buddy then. I'd also like to do the climb in one day like you do (roping up on the Reid Glacier and doing the remainder of the route without protection) and a midnight start sounds great if you're up for it another time. I occasionally will have weekends off but more reliably am free mid-week. Are you around March 6th,7th, or 8th? I'm also interested in Casaval Ridge on Shasta this winter. Let me know
  9. Just had plans fall through for Thursday...anyone up for Leuthold's Couloir on Hood the morning of Thursday or Friday? I live in Portland and am happy to drive.
  10. Just got a new pair of snowshoes, and if avy conditions stay low, I'm going to head up Hood via the south route this Thursday, the 26th, and strap on skis for the descent. Anyone want to come?
  11. My climbing partner has already checked it off his list and I'm looking for others to join me on an independent trip up Denali in '06 during the May-June climbing season via the West Buttress route. Experienced but certainly not world-class, I live in Portland, OR, and have done most of my climbing in the Cascades (Rainier, Adams, Hood, Eldorado, etc.), some in Colorado, and have taken a few treks abroad to places such as Bolivia and Mt. Kilimanjaro in Tanzania. Though not a huge fan of the guided thing, I will have completed an Alpine Ascents course geared toward Denali by May to become more comfortable with sleds over crevasses and fixed lines. I would like to attempt at least one winter climb in the Cascades with interested climbers. I plan to be away from work for four weeks and am flexible with exact dates. Please let me know if you're interested in Denali or even just in some local winter climbing.
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