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Did the connection a couple of days ago and really enjoyed the last pitch. Rope drag could be an issue but with shoulder slings on gear we had no problems. I kinda liked Jabberwocky. The finger locks are super secure and you just kind of flow up it. That said 5.0 might be an exaggeration. Definately has splitter style.

It's the one day a year I have to work till 7:00. Might swing by after 7:00 and see if anythings ging on. Frank

I've got a 9 year old daughter that hasn't really got into climbing, she basically thinks that I, her dad, am a lunatic. I think being around some other kids might help her see the fun there is to be had. Would this be a thing for that?

any of you pdx climbers getting out to the butte tonight. Thinking of being there around 6:00 Frank

I tele and but recently got a randonee set up for long tours were efficiency of movement and flexibility of use are essential. I got dynafit bindings and a lighter dynafit boot, tlt evo. The set up works well for multi-day trips that include climbing peaks. Crampons attachment to the my boots were much more dependable than with tele gear. The dynafit bindings are super light and the boots are among the lightest available. The also were very comfortable to walk in. The one downside to this set up is if you arnlt used to a slightly more flexible boot. Requires a little bit of technique as do entering and exiting the bindings. If youtalk to people the work in the backcountry guiding and touring most I have met go for the dynafit. Fritshis are definately more resort orientated with optional use as backcountry skis. The bulk and weight of Fritschis are substantially more than dynafits.

still looking for something solid...

Found laying at the base of cruisin. I've been hanging on to it but havn;t found the owners. If it's your send me a pm describing the unique gear tag and I'll get it back to you. I'm gone for two weeks so you'll have to wait for a reply Frank

sweet, thanks for the info.

Has anyone been up there recently that knows about what type of gear to bring. Do I need pitons, bashies, really small nuts, cam hooks etc?

Similar intersts. I've been working on aiding for a bit now and itching to get on some good introductory climbs down in yosemite. I've got the 21-15 of august to climb. Intersted? Frank

originally planned to climb some rock routes in th north cascades but my buddy is having to much fun in Peru so... Squamish, Yosemite, North Cascades, Tetons all possible. Have all gear and car lead 5.10 trad.

I looking for a partner from the 21st to the 25th. Are you or anyone else avaiable for climbing then?

found some sunglasses at beacon. THought they were my partners but they are not. PM me with a description and I'll send them to you. I'm out of town for three days so don;t expect a reply till then.

Look what fundamentalism brings people on a daily basis in the middle east right now. I looked at the route yesterday and the bolt. There first thing I noticed was a shit load of moss, then i saw a shallow dihedral with various clumps of grass and flowers growing out of it. Then i saw the bolt in question. I could see if peopl were freaking out about putting a bolt on a classic line that that has something to say to the climbing community but when I see reasonable richard I don;t think classic line and I don't think the bolt is destroying the wonderfull flavor of this moss and grasschocked approach route. Maybe if it were climbed and cleaned it taken care of it might be worth climbing but the current state of negect it has fallen into makes it a less than diserable experience.

I was there a few weeks ago and conditions were fine. The bergshrund had a bridge albiet a small one. Might be gone by now.

I would be siked to do it next thursday. Did the North ridg of stuart earlier this year and was glacing over towards dragontail thinking...

I'd put in a bolt, seems like ground fall potential is high if you were to peel off and a bolt might be needed. Off corse if any sortof prtection was available I would be against it but if there is not pro and ground fall potential it just makes common sense.

I might be interested. But I could only leave the 25th.

Nice job on that route. Was wondering how things went after chatting you at the base. The second pitch is definately one of the harder 10a's around. Got to love those stout climbs at beacon.

pm me if interested. Driving from portland if you need a ride. 5.8-5.10 trad is my preference

I'm heading out there right now. Look for me if your there before 3:00 Frank

I have climbed in mine for a year with several multi week trips and they are holding up fine. Like them alot but the did stretch a little bit to much. Just bought a piar of 5.10 Pitons. To supplement the shoe rack.

it all depends on how long you want to run it out. I think it would be doable without a large piece but we used one.

Anybody heading out to Beacon tomorrow. I will be there around 9:00 with a rack and rope. PM me if you want to meet up.

I actually originally posted this on accident and then went back and edited with details but the details somehow didn;t show up. SO here is the beta. Dan M and myself approached via mountaineers creek. On the way in we found a cairn path through boulder fields above the creek on the west side of the slope. On the way out we found a easy trail along the creek. Next time I'm following the creek in. The trail picks up about 1/4-1/2 of a mile after the stream crossing. We started the climb at 3:30am and were back at camp in the basin at 8:30pm. The route starts on the east side of the lowest point of the north ridge. Look for a hand size crack in a corner. I figured I was on route because I bootied a green alien. Then just go up the ridge finding easy climbing wereever possible. The crux/Gendarme has a layback crack and a off width. Both reasonably rate at 5.9. WE hauled up our day back. The decent was down Sherpa Glacier. Kicking steps in soft snow with tennies and self belaying with an ax. It was tiresome work. We eventually switched to rappeling the final bit to the glacier. There is a sizeable bergshrund that is still easily passable via a snowbridge. In a couple of weeks it will be a pain. Once we got to camp we packed up and hikes out. 12:00 at the car. A 20 hour day, not including the 5 hour drive back to p-town. There's what beta i got. The only thing really useful that I didn't find anywhere else was about the approach trail and conditions of sherpa. All around awesome climb.