mec

shit

coldplay sucks, listen to some real music.

why is it a sad day? sad for those getting evicted, yes. but what about the palestines that are getting their land back? This is just one more movement in the big chess game going on over there. As much as one side or the other makes movements towards peace, we are not going to see it in our lives. They have been battling for centuries, and will continue to battle.

plus by aiding, you can also get the joy of taking gear out that has been weighted. That really teaches what good and bad placements are. Plus it will frustrate the hell out of you, until you figure out the right size nuts to put into the crack. Put the wrong one in, and it can be a real bitch to remove.

I have never met ChrisT. However, I always thought calling a lady 'nice' was an insult, like you have nothing better to say about her...

too bad you missed the good parts of spontaneity arete. For themost part, as soon as you get to the gully you can start the climb. The 'big' snag is hard to spot, and when I did it with Blake a couple months ago, we just ended up starting somewhere. It probably was not the real start, but it was fun. There are some real good pitches on that route. Glad you had a good time on NF of Burgundy.

do you scream for ice cream?

I hear they are taking the first 20 feet or so off of the Apron when they widen the road, that will be cool. Add some steep pitches of blasted rock to get to the base of deidre. I'm sick of that hike up.

well, i said the hell with the heat and climbed Silent Running at 3 o'clock rock yesterday... started by 9, and cruised up. It was a bit toasty by the time we got down, and towards the top the rubber was not sticking quite so well. Great climb, wish it would have just kept going. Going to hop on total soul next time.

That is just one of so many words I am sick of

or maybe we could actually climb. What a concept, huh?

yeah, but during the first couple of rains, traffic will grind to a halt. people around here do not know how to drive in the rain. one would think that everyone would be used to it with the amount of rain we get here. But no, they don't.

maybe we should ban the transportation of explosives? nice crater, by the way

however, if the hummus has been left there for a few weeks, the public toilet might be a better choice...

GPS is another great example beyond map-making. It was for military use only until its capabilities slipped out (by Reagon I believe). However, from that argument we can argue that most technology is then be a basis for war. Computers, aircraft, medicine (biotech weapons), communication, materials (spectra is used in protective vests), etc. Most new, high tech stuff is used by the military in some way. So are we all working on components for the military?

are you suggesting that the space program has been focused on weapons development/deployment (even if it is not NASA's stated goals?)

I agree, just do it. Did this a few year back when there was not much snow up there. cruised it with just an axe, no crampons. was not bad at all. the ridge above the couloir is great!! enjoy it!

are there any other good solo-aid climbs at lower wall? I am thinking of green dragon this weekend!

but what happens with angelina?

Which side of the huge boulder? I did not see anything there, but I also was not looking much since I knew I had that nice easy bolt ladder to start with...

Like moths to a flame Is man never gonna change Time’s seen untold aggression And infliction of pain If that’s the only thing that’s stopping war Then thank God for the bomb Thank God for the bomb Thank God for the bomb Thank God for the bomb Nuke ya nuke ya War is just another game Tailor made for the insane But make a threat of their annihilation And nobody wants to play If that’s the only thing that keeps the peace Then thank God for the bomb Thank God for the bomb Thank God for the bomb Thank God for the bomb Nuke ya nuke ya Today was tommorow yesterday It’s funny how the time can slip away The face of the doomsday clock Has launched a thousand wars As we near the final hour Time is the only foe we have When war is obsolete I’ll thank God for war’s defeat But any talk about hell freezing over Is all said with tongue in cheek Until the day the war drums beat no more I’ll thank God for the bomb Thank God for the bomb Thank God for the bomb Thank God for the bomb Nuke ya nuke ya

Climb: Index-City Park Date of Climb: 8/9/2005 Trip Report: I decided to try out solo-aiding, and I figured that City Park would be the perfect venue. Nice bolt ladder to start things off and figure the system out, then a perfect crack to enjoy the rest of the climb. After reading all of the various postings about which belay system was best, and decided to go with the silent partner. After receiving the partner in the mail, I was a bit wary at how big it really was, but decided to hold off my judgement until climbing with it. After racking up, I was ready to go except for hooking up the silent partner and all that jazz. Well, that is when I found the first and only problem with the silent partner. and that is how the hell do I get 2 lockers into my harness after already having my fifi hook, 2 daisy chains, and one end of the rope tied in? There was simply no room for anything else. I do not have a big aid harness, so that just multiplied the problem. But after a few minutes of struggling and sweating, it was in. After that, the need was for the belay back-up knots. After all of the trouble of getting the silent partner attached, I just decided to clip them above my leg loop... When I was all done and ready I felt a bit front heavy with all the shit hanging from my harness. So, after figuring it out the setup I was ready to get started. Oh yeah, that first bolt is a couple of moves up there. ugh, with all the shit hanging in front of me, those moves were a pain in my ass. Good thing I was in some old ratty tennies instead of my climbin shoes. I would not want to make those moves easy. So I get to the first bolt and clip in, and then move on to the second. Then I figure that I can use the first bolt as the anchor, and the second bolt as a back-up. I tie a knot in one end of my lead rope and leave it with a locking biner to the first bolt. Then I tied another knot a bit farther up, and left this on the second bolt. They were not quite equalized, but hey they are big fat bolts and I was not too worried. So, I cruise through the rest of the bolts, and am diggin how easily the rope moves through the silent partner. Not bad at all. But now I am beginning to wonder how good one of these things are. Never having used one to catch a fall before, I decide to setup a controlled fall. I bring the rope through the last bolt and as close as reasonable to the partner. I tie a long daisy chain to the previous bolt and decide to just go for it and jump. JOLT!!! ooops, I made the mistake of still having my top daisy clipped to the top bolt. I won't make that same mistake twice, those non-dynamic falls hurt... Second time, I unclip the top daisy and go for it. Ahhh, a nice soft catch. No problems at all. I decide to just move out and get through the rest of the climb and see if there are any issues that come up. I get into the crack and am just lovin it. place nut, move up, set cam hook, move up, place nut, move up, place cam hook, etc. I probably averaged a cam hook every other move through the crack, which for me was pretty good. I am really starting to dig those things. Got to the top, tied off, and enjoyed the view for a bit, and decided to rap down. Now, the only problem was getting the silent partner back off my harness. a few more minutes of grunting, swearing and even more sweating, I get the partner off my harness. Set up a rap, down I go, cleaning as I went. Overall, the silent partner rocks!!! easy to use, self fed much better than expected. It looks big, but it really did not get in the way too much. I just need to figure out the harness situation and maybe find a different harness with a bigger clip in point. City Park is a fun aid climb. Great Day! Gear Notes: couple set of nuts, cam hooks, 2 blue metolius TCU's and 2 yellow TCU's and a silent partner Approach Notes: none

Should I call the FBI on you? This sounds a bit fishy... Oh wait, they might be reading this anyway.