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All of the ethics arguements aside...the arguement that a bolt every 50 feet on 5.5 terrain would be good because it would prevent a ground fall doesn't make much sense to me. Is falling 100+ feet on 5.5 terrain going to be much better than a groundfall? I beleive if you're going to bolt it, at least make a fall between bolts survivable. I'm assuming there's no natural pro to be had? Not trying to arguementative, just trying to understand what considerations are being made when a route is being bolted.

I've had mine 3 years and ready to replace just a few of them that look a little worse for wear. I haven't heard anything definitive on the whole material breakdown thing and I'm sure they're still within that "usable" range somewhere but it's a comfort thing for me...that plus I'm a natural gear whore anyway.

How'd the phone interview go?

I'm going to replace some of my Mammut 8mm runners this year but a bit confused by the different material types and the benefits/shortcomings of each. Any reliable web resources that explain the differences - something like "Dynex and Dyneema. Everything you want to know...then some!" that you know of? I Googled but all I can find are sellers. Like everyone, I'm looking for the best mix of durability, strength and weight. I've been happy enough with the Mammuts but I wanna do a bit more research this time rather than just go for the lightest thing out there. Thanks - Tim.

Thanks GP. Nice pics. We were thinking of descending down through the tarn then to the trail. I hate those ball bearing on the slabs and through that avi chute

Anyone know what the Chockstone Couloir route is looking like now as far as snow - experienced guess for this time of year? Gear recommendations? Thanks - Tim

I quit cold turkey 17 years ago. Had regular nightmares for several years where I'd wake in a cold sweat having dreamt that I had "just one." Still have the nightmares but maybe once a year or so. A good indication of how badly I was addicted I guess.

If there's any place where a float plane might be useful, it's probably some place where you shouldn't take one anyway. If the idea is to get remote, add a few days to your trip and hump it.

"Trails of the Wild Cabinets" by Dennis Nichols - A Keokee Guide Book. The Wanless Lake hike would take you 9 miles into an excellent looking area with quite a few optional extensions. There's a TR at NWHikers - Geiger Lakes TR that has a few pictures of Wanless. Having spent some time in the Caninets, I'd highly recommend the book mentioned. The terrain over there is very conducive to some off-trail link ups as well.

Trip: Blodgett Canyon/Shoshone Spire - 06/28/07 Date: 6/28/2007 Trip Report: Climbed this spire with NYC007 on Thur. First 3 pitches and pitch 7 were good. Pitch 4 thru 6 wandered up some really nice cracks and provided exceptional and exposed climbing. The first few moves off the belay on pitch 6 required a short but very exposed traverse that was so fun I'll probably go back again just for that pitch. NYC007 took the harder pitches but I still had fun leading the 5.7 and under stuff. With all the pro possibilities, it was a great route for me to push a bit beyond my sharp point comfort zone. Got 2/3 up one of the 5.8 pitches, stuck in an extra cam and relinquished the lead. Mostly so I could climb it twice though The walk-off to the top of pitch 3 was pretty obvious but steep. I did it in rock shoes but hauling the approach shoes up would have been a better option. 3 single rope raps brought us back to the packs. By the time we reached the talus it was swelting. Rushed back to the TH, drank a gallon of water then cruised back to Spokane. I've only been climbing a few years so not tons to draw from but this is the best route I've been on so far. Critter count: 5 or 6 wandering ticks, 1 Tick-a-biting and a camp black bear that could not be shooed off.

Let's go to Banks Thur. I'll drive. You can lead the hard stuff (that means 5.9 and 5.10 right now for me by the way) and I'll whine my way up on top rope. Would be nice if we had a boat to get to some of the stuff on the Pennisula. I could check into renting a cheapo from Fairchild.

Nice job. Your alarm woke up my partner who thought it was my alarm, which was set for 4:15. He made coffee, ate breakfast then wondered why the rest of us were still sleeping. Funny. I've only been to that TH 3 times but THAT was busy - cars lined up way down the road. Sounds like you had more company on Stuart than we did on Ingalls.

No doubt you were wondering so as to get up a bit earlier LOL. I hadn't met these guys before yesterday but they were a hoot and I'm looking forward to getting onto some good rock routes with em. But if it's an overnighter, I think I'll find a more remote spot to car camp and bring some ear plugs. Carl and I were the older guys - need more rest

I think so. I was with the overly excited and abnoxiously loud though very nice group that had to be asked to be quiet....with the shark tent. Some very good craggers out on their first alpine climb.

Went back again today and got to the top. Interesting rock. Surprised to have the route to ourselves on a nice Saturday. Also checked the smell of that red snow on the way down - just like ya said, watermelon! My pouser partner, Carl on the summit:

Cool read. Can't wait.

Large sections of the 2nd gully looked pretty loaded with snow last Saturday as well.

Thanks CBS.

Can I get away with aluminums for this route or is there a fair amount of rocky terraine to cross over where taking crampons off would be too much of a pain? Thanks

Looks like you had a nice day for it. What's the more popular route and approach later in the year?

You guys are gnarly.

I've used the Yates Rocker for a few years now. Fallen a few times on it. It does feed smoothly. Gotta keep an eye on the feed with thicker ropes or when you've got only light weight attached to the end.

A timely reply. I was just wondering what the proper name of that algae is. Thanks.

Trip: Ingalls Peak - South Ridge Date: 6/16/2007 Trip Report: After being denied Colchuck and Little Annapurna last weekend, I decided to continue the trend by heading up to Ingalls Peak with Carl. Snow on the trail near Ingalls Pass then solid beyond that. The weather turned foul then even fouler (more foulish) at the top of the first pitch. We bailed then romped around the lake. At the outlet we checked out the start for a possible future traverse from East Peak to South Peak - looks like it could be a fun time. Circled around the lake then headed back to the TH.

1. Deproaching. 2. Always carrying my own tent because it's too difficult to deal with a masturbating tent mate.