spotly

I have not yet been assimilated into the hive but my method is to take it to the laundry and use a commercial front-loader with a SMALL amount of Woolite. I may be overly protective but I also run the washer without anything in it first, just to be sure there's no unwanted chemicals from the previous load. Costs more but gives me peace-of-mind. I've daisy chained it a few times but still wind up with tangles. I've heard some people place theirs into a pillow case but seems that would prevent a thorough wash and rinse to me...haven't tried that though.

How many times did you reread the thread before formulating this question? I read it more than a few and I'm scratching my head too

Bench press and pushups were impossible for me when I tore my rotator and messed up my labrum. Towards the end of PT I was able to climb with no pain but I'm just now beginning to do pushups and presses again and it's been almost a year. Still only 5 to 10 pushups though Might be worth having a doc look at in case it's something more serious.

I've had lots of experience with Mazdas. We haven't owned either of those models but have purchased new RX7, 626, 323, GLC, B2600 and B4000.Up until Ford got their grubby finders on the manufacturing, we were satisfied. Resell on the Mazda also sucks. The last 3 we owned were lemons (bad head, peeling paint, bad brake rotors,...) and I've since switched to Toyotas and been very happy so far. I'm currently looking to dump my Tundra and get an economy car myself. My wife has the Yaris, which is highly rated for maint costs and has one of the best gas mileage ratings of gasoline cars (we're getting close to 40 highway). It is under-powered for Montana speeds though (at least on the hills). I believe I'm going with the Corolla, which has a great track racord and supposedly 35 mpg highway. Plus it has a bit more style than the butt-ugly Yaris. In my checking, it looks like the Honda is maintaining its value better than Toyota and the Civics aren't too hard to look at.

Ouch. ...the magical pink tricam. Glad it was only a flesh wound. I'm thinking bout hauling up some gear and soloing it - what'd ya take/use for a rack?

How's Slickrock looking now - wet crack, dry crack?

I've got 2 Montbells - both are the UL Stretch and not the alpine. For the weight, I'd prefer the extra space of the stretch. As far as quality, I've been happy with both bags. I've used the 40 degree bag quite a bit and the 15 degree only a few times. A few zipper snags on the 40 but the zipper guard on the 15 is stiffer so haven't had any problems with it. They both seem relatively durable and (for me) accurate for the ratings.

Looking to head over there from Spokane on Saturday to run up something short or something with a short approach. I'd do R&D again or something similar. I'd lead 5.7ish - follow 5.10. Gotta be back early so the earlier start, the better. My Yaris gets somewhere around 40 highway.

I've got the Tundra and the wife has the Yaris - works out I'm trying to find someone to head over there from Spokane. Even with the Yaris an 40 highway, it hurts to go alone.

Your Dad is awesome. He doesn't look (or act) anywhere near his age. What a cool thing to have in common between family members. Simple - I like this!

Burr and the other ®s didn't vote against the veterans-just against this package. Burr's version offered veterans some pretty exceptional benefits but unlike the (D)'s version, which offered the same benefits across the board regardless of time served, the ®'s considered that studies showed the (D)'s package would adversely affect retention and so offered a package that increased the benefits per individual based on the amount of time served.

Great read. Sounds like "fun"

White Rock is the one I was referring to. Sounds like I've got the gear I'll need then. Thanks Bob - timely beta

Very nice. Great shots!

Anyone here ever aid up that? I've got limited supplies of small gear and zilch as far as an aid rack so was wondering what kinda gear it takes before I go out borrowing and begging. Thanks.

Makes sense - thanks.

I once saw a leader place his last piece about 20 feet below a ledge then finish off that easy 20 feet (5.3ish) and traverse 50 feet left without placing another piece. The 2nd reached the last piece, which he pulled. But, because the leader had traversed without placing a piece, the rope no longer followed the easy line up - instead, the 2nd was forced to climb some hideous crack that was obviously at his limit. To make matters worse, if he'd have fallen (which he nearly did), the rope, which was barely caught on a bump on the ledge above, would have popped loose resulting in a 45 foot fall, either decking or swinging into a corner system. Scarey stuff for him and a visually supported lesson for me....protect the frickin traverse! Since the ledge was an easy walk, I think a belay from directly above the 2nd would have been the best choice in that case though.

I found this comment in an article at Rope Systens : "The rap/tag/haul line can stay at the bottom of the follower’s pack for most routes, and then be brought out when time to make rappels. For particularly hard climbing, the leader might clip it to the back of his/her harness to haul one or both packs or to tag gear while aid climbing or short-fixing." Not sure what the bolded area is saying. Could someone clarify it for me? Thanks

It appears to be a single chain to me. If I get an answer to my question above though, I'll scope it out and send an update. Wheather and procurement of a climbing partner permitting of course

Nice TR and pics! I've read that the property along the road is signed "Private" - is the bridge private too? I'm guessing a pretty small rack - sizes? How long did it take you car-to-car? Thanks.

I think he said it was an autographed copy too.

Don't understand the language but too funny listening to the guy argue with him about ruining the Matterhorn while the chick just wanted to buy something. Great post.

We were hoping to do the bolted line (Cocaine Connection) afterwards but time wasn't on our side. The dashed line looked good too and would have gotten us past the two slower teams - hindsight I guess. Yep - that's a Nalgene. But it's the "safe" plastic and not that toxic stuff so it's ok

Trip: Icicle Buttress - R&D Date: 5/10/2008 Trip Report: My friend Carl and I climbed it today. Got to the base at 8:30 expecting a long line. Two other teams were just starting up. We had an hour or less wait at each belay and got down at 1:30. Didn't like the waits but the climbing was pretty fun. Favorite pitch was #2 (great hand jams) and the chimney pitch (#3). Last pitch was waaaay long and the start was kinda awkward. Fun pitch though...other than the start and the hideous rope drag that I somehow managed to get. Alas, I was too short to take the start left of the crack and had to slab by way up under the little roof to the right then over. Carl took the left side start, traversing a few feet right into the crack and said it was fun. Took the decent to the left. Kinda steep and sandy but not as bad as expected. Rain came down when we hit the pavement The route we took. Carl coming up the second pitch. Carl heading up the chimney pitch (#3). Carl topping out. The descent off climbers left.

Thanks for the pics. It looks so small and low-angle from the car - like you'd be hard pressed to get a half pitch 2nd class walk-up Cams to #4 eh - any doubles useful?