NoahT

Ya, last year it was great.

Very cool--thanks for sharing. Now I need to go find a pic of the face...N

When the day comes that we get cell service everywhere, sat phone style, I predict most will always carry a phone with them in the back country. It'll be for various reasons: call the wifey, get the weather, watch some YouTube, but in the back of our minds will be the added assurance of the "possiblity" that one could summon help if needed. I also predict that few will take issue with the practice. Noah

I've benefited from having mine. I think it's well established if one needs an epirb, buy an epirb. If one needs to reassure loved ones, spot will go a long way. If it keeps them from unnecessarily calling sar because you're a couple hours late just once, then it's probably worth a couple extra ounces. N

What peak is that just to the right of Glacier? Kinda looks like Sloan's west face, but doesn't look like Sloan...

That first picture looks downright Alaskan. Who knew I-rock was early season material!? Nice job!

Kroil--comes in an orange can--Its a lubricant we use the construction trade frequently. Better than wd40. You can find it at legit hardware stores.

Just so I understand the progression (not a grade debate): Was the original Dragons of Edens grade V rating taking into account getting to the summit? Or was DOE considered just the steep pitches to get to the NE ridge? Looking over there from across the way, I'm really struck by how much ground you have left to cover after the steepness (if one intends to summit.) Props to those that do! Noah

This "sponsorship" debate could use more specific examples. I don't have any, because I don't care enough about it. But then we could all rag on said poser, and conclude together that so-and-so is a douche. One big happy (cynical) family. The big, sweeping, catch-all opinions, either pro or con, seem weak. Too many factors at play. N

He says of that pic: "I immediately set up a self-belay for a 5.9+ traverse, and after climbing through it spent nearly fifteen minutes dealing with my rope and pack as they snagged on all the fins of rime sticking out from the rock." Sooo...he sets it up, climbs through, and then deals with rope and pack...(?) It is hard to tell in the photo, but doesn't sound like leap-frogging or rap/jug. Perhaps there's no mystery, though: maybe he's tied in half way, loops one end through fixed gear ties it back to himself, other end goes to the pack which is hung on some rime, so as to just lift off when hauled.

Unless you need to chop something:

Colin's solo of Supercanaleta where he uses various self-belay techniques. He says: "I tied into the middle of the rope so that I had one 30m length for hauling my pack, and the other 30m length to quickly set up a self belay where necessary." And then he mentions a couple of times setting up a "quick self-belay." Here's a look back at one: I've always kinda wondered exactly what's going on there...whatever the anchor is composed of (pins/slung something-or-other/gear) how is he attached so that he doesn't have to go back and undo himself. He can just pull the rope, pop, the bag comes off and he's off the anchor. He mentions specifically on the crux pitch using a traditional self-belay where he lowers back down, cleans and jugs the pitch, so it isn't that. Can someone explain? Cheers!

If your in the area (north conway), Wild Things has stuff in all your categories--and they're small and local (bonus). IME is up there, too, and has a great used selection. I like primaloft over fleece not only for its warmth-to-weight, but its packability. (i.e., Patagonia puffball) (If money matters) For shells, I've gotten away with cheaper jackets, sacrificing breathablity (like paclite or similar), but have found high-end pants to be worth it for the durability (mine are XCR, but could be any of that good stuff--eVent, proshell, H2No). Might seem counter-intuitive, because your core is maybe more important. But your pants take a TON of abuse, they're always close to, or in, the snow/ice/water, AND there's usually less of a "system" going on down there--just one or two layers--so you kinda need it all to work. (i.e., Marmot Minimalist Jacket, Arcteryx something-or-other pants) About the puffy coat--it doesn't count if it doesn't have a hood. Instant warmth, on demand. (i.e., Patagonia DAS) There are lots of cool, shelled puffys floating around now, too. (i.e., OR Chaos) Cheers, N

"Is it worth the "RISK?" No. But there isn't anything about climbing that IS worth the real, ultimate risk we expose ourselves to when we go out. Unfortunately, we tend to see this in flashes of brilliance only after bad fortune has caught up with us, or our friends. And oh, how quickly we forget! I also think there's an aura of sexiness around "fast and light" climbing, when it obviously doesn't fit for certain situations or climbers. When it actually mitigates some of the risk for a certain objective, there's inherent value. But when it's employed just for fun, or for the sake of work schedules, etc., it should be recognized for what it is. Just an option, one of many, that puts you a little closer to the edge. The choice to simul- may fall into this category.

Nice, I've always looked across to that thing and wondered.

Nice Sol, beat me to it...!

Me thinks this happened last winter (Jens) and in fantastic style. Check out his Blog

Hi Jake-- Might be a good option for the future (or present). Facebook is nifty because they let you upload videos up to 20 min long (vs youtube's 10 min max) and up to 1GB ( which is less than youtube's 2GB max). I've found it easy to put together vids over 10 min long, but compress them to less than 1GB. I think youtube's 10 min/2GB may be set with HD vids in mind--not something I've done. Something to think about! Cheers, noaht

Can you embed video from facebook in a post here on cc.com? I know how to get the embed code from facebook, and have been embeding videos to blogger.com. Curious about doing it here. Thx--N

I can't belive I just read that whole thing...someone slap me.

What a strange original post!?

I, too, like the simplicity of the short reports, as is. And I like that a bit of the "reporters" personality comes through too, some including more info than others, some keeping the mystery alive with just a few short lines. The boiled-down version also keeps me moving through the list. I don't get hung up following link after link of a particularly interesting one. I don't remember off-hand, but if you don't already, maybe just citing a particular source (if there is one to follow) would nudge people in the right direction but save you the hassel of dead links/lessened asthetics. That said I've never felt nwmj was lacking this, as I agree that when I want to track something down, it's never that hard.

You could just clip the main loop going around the couch. Is that close enough?

Awesome shot of "the roof...". Wow!!!

Like bb said, they don't know what aa is doing. If they trust aa is competent, then aa will communicate when bb is on belay. bb needs to stay flexible...