NoahT

I know, that's how I feel...! And when I press him for specifics, they inevitably vear off-track, melding seamlessly into other unrelated climbing memories. So it goes maybe, the truely memorable details don't necessarily mean anything to anyone else--cause they weren't there! And kind of a lot has happened since then. N

I work for Scott Davis, of bertulis/davis. He says the thing he remembers most about that ascent was a huge serac calving off into the lake, and sending a tusami-like tidal wave across. They thought the world was coming to an end. Strange the things that will stick in your mind 40 yrs later, and what all will be forgotten. He remembers a "5.9 move or two."

We are headed up this weekend. Not off our list. I think you just need to know what you're getting after. Anyone not done the south ridge "variation," and just continued up into what I gather culminates in a big chimney (as per beckey)? N

Pretty amazing...! So steep. Thanks for that, N

Save your energy, and use it to wake up 2 hours earlier.

Maybe a mod can change the "location" to Aasguard Sentinel (for posterity's sake)? Can't do it from the "edit" function.

Probably?...for some reason I had Jaberwocky in my head, and thought I'd seen it written down as that somewhere. Ya, it's opposite dragontail at Aasguard, on the flanks of enchantment peak. Let's see if I can figure out how to change it. Thanks, cheers!

That's fun, thanks for the pic! So many people up and down the pass on Sat... A different perspective

Trip: Enchantment Peak - Acid Baby Date: 8/8/2009 Trip Report: We had a good time on Acid Baby this past Saturday. I thought I'd add some more pictures of it to the cc.com beta-pool. This was just the kind of route I was looking for, and one I think the area needs. A good litmus test for the 5.10 climber. All kinds of crack and slab, steep, sustained, and relatively clean. Well worth enduring ass-master pass for. If I knew how to draw on top of pictures, this one would capture 3/4 of the route pretty well. You can see our 2nd pitch emerging just above the trees, the big corner on P3, the big roofs you've crossed under and the crack you start in for P4, the v-slot that starts P5 and the big left leaning dihedral, and of course the prow (that which you are aiming for). Layton's topo in the original TR was good enough for us. Looking up from the base. We split the 1st supposed 65m pitch, at least as it's described on the topo, into two 30m p's. First one goes through a short roof (10- maybe) on a good hand crack, in the middle of this photo. Second one, for us, tackles this bitch. Woah?! An awesome, slightly overhung thing that had some fight in it. Held it's 10+ rating for me. Looking down it from a good stance Finishing off our P2 Our P3. This 5.9 pitch was probably the most loose/dirty. Up this corner, then cross left and up through some dirty flakes, then back right under the big roofs. Our P4. After crossing under the big roofs over to the right hand side of the tower, you climb an obvious sharp off-hands to a good stance. Then launch into some airy friction moves left (directly over belayer) to get into a finger crack corner. Note the loose block, stem accordingly (or trundle accordingly!). Before we got to this fun little slabby bit, I had to figure out what's what. The finger crack continues straight up, and through the middle of this section in the photo (can't see it). Or you can move right and up to easier ground, but that begs the question, "how exactly am I going to get back across the whole thing." Going by the bird-in-the-hand adage, I went straight up knowing I'd have gear. It proved too tight for me though, and I moved right after a couple small nuts. Needless to say, I think right is the best way. The traverse was a bit nervey, but it went with some good footwork. Solid 10 with an added friction slab what-the-hell-am-I-supposed-to-stand-on bonus. Yeah for no penji's... Our P5 starts in this v-slot and up the hand crack above, then right under the obvious roof and up slightly easier ground. Second half of our P5 kept following this leftward arching corner to where it ended in a stack of loose blocks, then frictioned across into to a solid crack where I built a hanging belay with our #3 and #4. This was a welcome size as I had used all but two orange and one purple tcu, a number 2, and BD nuts #5 and under. In my opinion, the most strenuous part of this pitch was the v-slot (10+), but this upper part was tough with tight fingers and smeary feet. Our P6 didn't quite align with the topo. Maybe we had gone to far on P5, or maybe I zigged when I should have zagged. Either way, you're gunning to get underneath the prow. We went up an easy left facing corner, then cut right across a sloping ledge (pictured). The LFC kept mellowing out and curving up and off to the left, but I was trying to get under the prow, and I liked the look of this little corner thing. This guy puts you right underneath da prow. Note the awesome exposure...you're on the arete at this point. You can kinda see it in the picture, just on the other side of that pillar is a bunch of air. Looking up the start of the last pitch (P7 for us). One last bit of crack leads you to the finale...we went to the left of the block. Ride that fin It's a crazy cool finish. You've got all this steep climbing behind you, it's like coasting downhill for the last mile of a bike ride. Short but soo sweet! Purtty views... Highly recommended!!!! Gear Notes: Single set of nuts, doubles of tcu's to #2, one #3, one #4 Approach Notes: I was curious to see how obvious the tower was...it was.

A funny read--good on ya!

Note to self: Get stronger.

Wow, continuing to make the cascades look small.

Josh--are you looking for partners and "route" beta, or for motivational words of encouragement and consensus that you are indeed ready to tackle a given peak? This online forum is great for the former. The people you will meet, and lessons from the experiences you'll have with them, is where you want to get the latter. You're not going to convince anyone of anything here. You'll just continue to get responses for and against any given opinion/objective. You'll likely agree with the ones that think you're "ready," and you'll wonder why those don't feel the way the do. N

All the makings of a classic!...except the three day approach.

Is this west face wall in this photo? Can you point it out...there's some obvious steepness on the lower right...? Or further up the finger of snow, the triangular looking "wall" under the west ridge ? Scurlock's photo obviously (so good!)

Geez, two PNW teams within a month of each other--that probablly counts as crowded up there. Well done!

You can get new phones for $1000-1300 and used/demo phones from $500 down to $300. Looks like a yearly plan with 600 minutes will run $600, as I understand from their website.

In that last pic, is that crack above the bush the 5.11 OW on freedom rider?

Oh, "attempted"...gotcha--poor reading comprehension over here.

Rapping...the route? Those be some shenanigans, for sure!

Ya I've botched the mtnr's creek approach/de-proach a couple times too. I actually didn't mind the boulder hopping as an alternative. At least you're not in the trees constantly wondering if you're about to lose the trail, or already have.

Trip: Chianti Spire - East Face Date: 6/28/2009 Trip Report: Does the world need one more Chianti shout-out? Hell ya, it's that good! Not much to say that hasn't already been said, but if you like good crack climbing, you'll feel right at home. We did it as a 3-some on Sunday, under the same great weather everyone enjoyed up there. Lame, I know...photo's are pixelated cause I pulled them out of video clips. But it's something to look at. I've been getting more into shooting a bunch of video and then stringing it all together with music. Unfortunately files are huge and not always postable to youtube, etc. to share. I honestly thought the chimney was the hardest part. The "crux" crack is just good, secure jamming/arm-baring, and off-vertical after the first 15 ft, so you're on your feet. We all thought if you feel like a solid .9 climber, you shouldn't be afraid to have at this thing. Cheers, Noah We started here, seemed a little left of the usual start (?). Half way up 1st pitch looking down. Brian starting 2nd pitch. Brian getting wedged in the chim-chimney. We both followed right-side in, and found it easier. Looking up the 4th pitch. Looking down from top of 4th. Brian starting 5th and last pitch. I love this part of the trail up there. Always makes me want to just set up a tent and vegetate. Gear Notes: Doubles to #2, single 3,4, (we brought a 5, and used it, but I wouldn't bring it if I did it again). Approach Notes: 2 hrs to col, snow free on west side, still snowy on east side.

I'd say your ready to take her on again...i mean how bad can i reeally be. We should find out. Cya-- N

Nice craig, I remember that tr. I was always a little confused trying to imagine that terrain in your pics on more the ne face proper. It alllll makes sense now. Strong work. Totally conditions dependent, tragically guarded by the big hump to get in there. Here's to making it a go!!! Cheers

West faces were good to go as of a couple weekends ago. The occasional snow patch in the shade, oozing drippy-ness, but otherwise clear. N