cynicalwoodsman

unreal

Wow that's so cool! How'd ya do that? 'N yer a newbie? I really need to get out more.

Strawberrys? w w w where's that?

I think the crag is called Cougar Bluff(s)? <1 mile from gate toward falls up on the right, there's a crag that's got some ice forming on it. Many splats of it all over up in there, and something promising forming up in the main weakness basically splitting the face. Does anyone know if this stuff ever comes in or has been climbed?

About the boots: yes the columbia's would be good for snowshoes phobably. The Sportiva's 'r fer climbin'. Ultimately it'd be good to have a pair of each type if ya plan on snowshoe'n or ya just get out in the winter to play. If yer gonna be strappin' on or steppin' into crampons you'll need a pair like the sportivas. But don't get hung up on brand names for either style.... feet are fussy, and nothing will test the term "fit" more than hikin', climbin' 'n stuff like that. You'll probably find some brands fit better 'n others. They're all different. Fit is paramount. Nothin's better than happy feet. Or at least nothin' sucks worse than unhappy feet. Also, boots fer climbin' are no fun to hike in. They're uber stiff and they don't give at all! If yer gonna mostly climb. Get a pair of nice stiffies that fit well 'n hike in 'em. It's good "training" for the climbin' and approaches, and ya can still use 'em with snowshoes. Climb on.

Was there a holiday? At least I've got one day in. If this flow came in at all, I'll have 2! I'll let ya know.

BigSexy, when was that pic taken?

flinstones

Got my SUV, my GPS unit, 'n my cell phone. I'm ready! Should I buy any of those clippy things?

Boy are we gonna drink a lotta beer!

Just to see George's tits!

goddammit now I gotta go rent it. Fuckers

Alex K's book is a good idea. I especially like the part where it's explained that, basically, PNW ice can be had, but the flows don't usually come in for long and rarely get fat (making a broad sweeping generalization here). Make a habit of watching the weather... closely, and for lenthy periods of time. The temps in Leavenworth have been better than normal for a good bit, but the daytime highs 'r gettin' to be a bit warm maybe. The north-facing stuff might be good. Anyone know? There's roadside ice in Leavenworth up the Icicle Canyon at Rainbow falls and Coreno. Although they require a WI3 leader and would be very difficult if not impossible to TR. I am unsure about what's farther up the canyon as far as TR-ability. Depending on where you just moved from you may find this season to be more of an education and insight as to what to look for next year and where. I moved here from the NE a few years ago and realized that I am spoiled. New England ice comes in for longer periods of time because it's just plain colder for longer. We used to have to wait til mid-morning just for the temps to get above zero. Boy oh boy I miss the 'Dacks, but I can say that while they're still waiting for cold weather I climbed ice in Oregon a few days ago! Go figure. And I wasn't whackin' dinner plates off the route all day either. What a treat! Plastic ice DOES exist! Get the book! And plan to spend more time driving and scouting routes than you will climbing them. But when ya find the stuff in it's worth it!

Also: I'd LOVE to see any of these flows actually come in. But there's a lot of water runnin' over 'em 'n this ain't 'zactly arctic winters we git in these parts. Note that the rain over the last 2 days prob'ly wiped out most of what was in. This is the only time of the year I wished I still lived in the 'Daks, although they ain't gettin' any cold weather at all... and I just climbed ice in Oregon! Woo Hoo

That first pic is exactly how it looked the following day (Friday 12/22) and 3 of us TR'd the (climber's) right side of the left flow. It was good, short, 'n felt like WI3+. We wanted to TR the left side of the right flow but toppin' out off the ice looked thin 'n wet, and then there looked to be a good 10 feet of steep heard dry-toolin'. We bagged it. From Bend head South on 97 fer maybe 20 miles 'r so (before LaPine) 'n you'll see sign on the right. It's a left-hand turn. Drive flat windy road (yes it's sketchy slippery snow packed) til where ya park. The approach is just road-walkin maybe 2 miles up the road past the gate. Gradually up, packed 'n groomed snow-machine road. Maybe one of the dozens of sleds that you'll see might give ya a lift if ya flag 'em down end compliment their cool garb and if there's still room for ya on the back of the thing with a pack and how far back the sled-head's sittin' to clear his gut from the steering wheel. I'll try to get pics up today.

The gunks 'r da first place I ever plugged gear 'n still the most fun I ever had climbin' a 5.6. F'get 'bout 5.10. If you never climbed in the NE b'fore yer in fer sum hard grades... 'specially if'n yer tawwggin' da Gunx. Horseman CCK High Exposure All must must must-do's! Hell even 3-Pines at 5.3 is still a steep fun route 'n duh third pitch is classic gunks exposure! Like these guys 'r sayin'... watch the weather. If it's nice® go climb rock. If it's still cold, go to da Daks 'n git yerself sum uv da best Ice anywhere! Dropkick Murphy kicks butt.

What'r the lines lookin' like up there right now? Anyone know?

I remember that smile!

I'm born 'n raised in Upstate NY. The Gunks are the first Rock I ever climbed. I usually can onsight up to 10a (sometimes 10b)on sport routes at Smith, and I've led 5.8 trad on a few old-school grades, but I've never even bothered leading anything harder than 5.6 at the Gunks. You could spend the rest of your life there and never even get on anyting harder than 5.8. This place puts a smile on your face! It continues to be the most fun I've ever had climbing. The Trapps 'r what craggin' is all about! The stuff is steep, and appears harder than the grades in the guidebooks, which they are, but not as hard as they look. It's all there! Try Three Pines (5.3), Horseman (5.5), High Exposure (ya GOTTA do the classic 5.6), CCK (5.7), and Ken's Crack, the most sandbagged route I've ever seen at 5.7. I always show back up there with aspirations of getting on harder stuff, but dammit the moderates are just so much fun I never make it past 5.6. Enjoy!

Ok sounds good... who wants some? I am not quite bold enough to go alone! Uhhhhhhh how steep does the stuff get up there?

How late into the season might said ice still be found up there...normally?

I'm a transplanted NEice climber (not terribly talented). Does spring-time ice exist on the North Sister, or just a fun coulior-type snow climb in Southern Cascades? Alpine ice would be cool. What's it look like? Spray on.

Oh I gotta post more. gotchya'

...why I gotta be a stranger, eh'?

If you plan to come to Smith this season, and you most certainly SHOULD be planning a trip here this year, then feel free to let us know. We'll be happy to introduce you to your feet (toes)!