kevbone

That's also of dubious note: One can pound a bucket of fermented piss and still manipulate you. Decrisco crack, I liked your post before you got witty and changed it. I would much rather be acknoledged than manipulated. Well, that not always true. Manipulation is good, as long as there is a whip involved.

Yo Mike, this is nothing to brag about! The only thing good about watery tasting beer is, you can down 4 of them and still operate power tools.

Petzl Long Life That is about the weirdest bolt I have ever seen. Has anybody seen these or used these. What do you do, just pound them in and there tight?

NO

Smart people like to live where it rains, ALOT!

Thanks bill, I will take it. I am going to JC on Friday at around 2 pm and will be there all night. Can I expect it then? I was just going to redrill a new bolt. but would rather not go through the trouble.

You must be joking, do you see a nut on the end?

I called Jim last night and asked about the pins, he states its probably Bob Mcgown your going to get in touch with. Its his route.

Does anyone (who have place them) have an opinion on them, I used them on a climb I put up and am having problems keeping the nut tight. It went so far as the hanger falling off in my hand. When I bought them, the guy at the climbing shop stated "they are the only bolt made specificaly for climbing", so I bit and bought three of them and used them for a roof climb. I am not happy with them, and trully cannot keep the nut tight. I will probably have to pull it and redrill with a 5 piece rawl. Has anybody had the same expirence?

RuMR, I was getting to like you and say stupid shit like that! What would make you think I have ever done that? I have never touched another person’s route, especially a perfect crack like BOC. You are back in my tool book broham!

The Ramones SUCK!

All speculation.......

Sounds like you just want to climb on a girl! not acutally climb.

What a stupid topic, but Ill bite. Its almost friday, and my company is letting us all of at 1pm tomorrow! Im going climbing.

The crux comes right after the tree (either belay there or do it in 1 LOOOONNNNGGG pitch), its green camolots for about 10 feet or so. Hint, lay it back through that part. Then its just gold to the top and pummpy as shit. At least I thought so. I was and am out of shape.

All depends on HOW MANY PITCHES you are doing? If is only a couple then climb regularly, if its 4 or more, then try one of the usful tips metioned above.

I will have to agree, minx. The last time I got worked was at Index, I havent been climbing alot of straight in jam cracks lately and jumped on Breakfast of Champions. I ended up getting it, but was blown to bits, I could barley belay my partner up.

Sorry you hade to bivy on the route, great story though.

"First of all, I've never drilled a bolt in my life" nuf said. Get off the thread.

Your going to have to be more specific.

I will say this: Ground up bolting is definitely bolder than rap bolting. But bolder is not always better. Injuries happen on both styles of climbing. I was merely stating, I have had more fun (this is the only reason for climbing, in my book) on a rap bolted climb than one that was put up on lead.

"that was what your whole point of this stupid thread was about right? " Yes

“You can be assured of doing so if you are in touch with your own capabilities, which you clearly are not, since you evidenltly tackle projects over your head and then claim your tactics used were necessary because it was 'too dangerous'. For who? YOU. Bachar's routes have stood the test of time as one man's expression of route creation reflecting the ability of the climber, and not the fear and lack of ability. Nobody has gone back to rap bolt them because the route was unsafe for them, the routes just get climbed only by those competent to do so. Kurt Albert puts bolts right next to cracks on mountain routes in Patagonia and elsewhere justifying it by saying he "wants to create a repeatable route for everyone else" by diminishing the amount of gear necessary. Well, thanks but no thanks, I'll be the judge of what I need. Thank you for predetermining the adventure for the rest of us. If it's too much, well then I guess I'll find something that is within my abilities, not drag it down to my level to fulfill my ego trip.” SS, once again you have confirmed my suspicion, you are a tool. And have a huuuugggeeee ego! This thread is about rap vs ground up. Who the hell mentioned retroing the BY route. I don’t want that. Do you? Man, everyone always references this climb, the same folks who bitch about it, will NEVER climb it. Including me! I don’t care what happens to a climb I will never see or climb. Tackle projects over my head. Bullshit. I would like to see you lead ground up on one of my routes of my choice and watch you bolt it on lead, that would be entertainment. I think we agree on a lot of things, this Kurt albert dude is a tool also. Do you think I agree with this way of putting routes up? I don’t!

Should the bachar-yerian get retroed? What a dumb question. First accents are coveted, broham. No, never touch another persons artwork, no matter how much of a bad job they did. Alot of the climbs out there scare me, and like I said I am a whimp most of the time, so I move on and dont climb them!

Stevo, your using the same old argument and I call your bullshit, You are a tool. I dont want a guarantee for saftey, but I want my chances to be great, not just good, but great that I will climb the next day and on and on and on. Oh yeah on other thing, this may be a sport to you. But its a way of like for me.