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Everything posted by Dirtyleaf
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I was thinking about becoming an inspirational speaker. For elementary childeren. I could use this as an example of glory.
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I hope this was inspiring.
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Trip: D-Town - Slab Daddy Date: 7/15/2009 Trip Report: Jimbo SHokes and I sent the slab daddy last year when it was really hot. (REALLY HOT) It was really hot the day we climbed the slab daddy. Good thing we had cigarettes though. Being old time D-town buddies we both had to climb this and we knew we were the only slab retards to do it. Good thing I wore my tight performance shoes. So I could perform. On the slabs. We both wore helmets and drank water. I got very dehydrated. WE thought about doing it in 2 days but...kept going instead. It's a big route. lots of 5.10 slabs. Started to feel tired around pitch 17, with 5 more to go. It was ok. We made it. Jimbo took us to the top. Got dark at the summit. Made 11 raps in the dark down to the bivy ledge and our packs. I was licking the rock for moisture. Jimbo: "Um....do you want to clip in to the anchor?" Me: "sure" Spent the night at the ledge. It was hot. I was hot. I wouldn't recommend this route when it is really hot. And it was hot that day. ANyway, we had smokes. Jimbo had some whiskey. It was big. Here's some pictures. This was our trip. This is our "official" TR. Expect wet pitches in the start and early season. Be aware of water. Bring a small hose to siphon out of pools on the upper part of the route.
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Did you bivy on the ledge? We forgot to reclaim our red alien on pitch 21 on our way down, was it still there? Was pitch 2 soaking wet? Was the water jug still at the base of the route?? ? ? huh huh huh? Did it rain? Were you tired? Did your feet hurt? Did you bring a jacket? Did you take pictures? Do you really like slab climbing? ...Did you even climb it? Are you married? Did your wife call S&R? Did your girlfriend dump you because of the slab daddio? What happened? Are you sick? Allergic reaction? Get stung by a bee? Forget your Epipen?
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[TR] Icicle crick - classic crack 4/7/2010
Dirtyleaf replied to danhelmstadter's topic in Rock Climbing Forum
We could all use a directional.....sumitchaser -
I would say: Forget everything but the big mean green. the c4#5 won't go that far. Go for the 6 or the old 5. The offwidth is pretty tame IMO. I would give it a .8 rating.
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NORTH CASCADES. I would say: avoid the poop chutes and go climb something gnar up north. Plenty of options. Not many people. Stunning views.
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Ah yes, good advice indeed. Patience: the most challenging aspect in my life.
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after climbing eats... what's your favorite?
Dirtyleaf replied to mountainsloth's topic in Climber's Board
After jamminmg in Tieton I love the Trout Lodge. L-town: I buy a frozen pizza and cook it at a friends house. Darrington: The Shell gas station has a wide variety of fried eats. Vantage: wait until ellensburg, then eat a burrito. Washington Pass: THE MAZAMA GAS STATION IS THE COOLEST PLACE IN THE ENTIRE WORLD!!!! I'm serious. I love the Mazama gas station. Where else do you buy socks and underwear, patagonia puffies, beer, wine, smokes, and coffee, oh, and gas.Smiff rock: The Depot. -
My personal favorite: "Ooby ooby doob scoob" I need to copyright that shit.
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I make up songs as I go and sing out loud.
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[TR] Dragontail Peak TC Ski - Triple Couloirs: Option #3 3/21/2010
Dirtyleaf replied to telemarker's topic in Alpine Lakes
Thar she blows matey! -
Really, really awesome.
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Flaming gay purple with a rainbow and a my little pony picture on the right front breastal area? If so, that's one of mine.
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Why am I proudtobeunamerican?
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Great weather. I have a car and no job. If you don't have a car but have gas$$...Either way if you want to get to the chosspile this week send me a pm. Jigsaw, Powerhouse,Fatman,Millenium,Riverview,
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vANtage silly.
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[TR] Red Rock, NV - Prime Rib 3/1/2010
Dirtyleaf replied to Sherri's topic in The rest of the US and International.
Good call on escaping the crowded crags of the PNW. While at Index and Vantage over the weekend I actually lost track of where I was. I thought I was at Bellvue Square Mall for awhile. Looks like fun! -
[TR] Colchuck Peak - North Buttress Couloir Ski
Dirtyleaf replied to telemarker's topic in Alpine Lakes
You're a goddamn scientist. -
first ascent [TR] FA-Black Spider-Center Drip-Mt Hood 3/6/201
Dirtyleaf replied to wayne's topic in Ice Climbing Forum
Nice send Beau and Wayne! -
first ascent [TR] Assassin Spire - NW Face (IV, WI4+) FA
Dirtyleaf replied to Tom_Sjolseth's topic in North Cascades
Kickass!! Good job gentlemen! -
Awesome! That avalanche gulley kinda sucks. NICE RECON!