Kimmo

is there anything there to lobotomize?

nice work! what are your FA's like? sporto, trad, steep....?

damns, what's with all the baby daughters? i also happily became the daddy of a little girl this year, January 12th! and somehow found more dedication and time (funny how they go hand in hand) to climb and train (well, train) more than i ever have, going from hobbyist climbing half-serious 6 mo's out of the year to really stoked near full-time climber. bolted a few lines in the last year, one called Baby On Board in honor of my wife's pregnancy. weighed in around 13b/c and super fun. the extension is waiting for efforts this upcoming winter and spring, and is significantly harder, maybe 14a or b (hence the training). bolted and FA'd another line called Silverback, also around 13b/c. super fun bouldery affair. another bolt job extended an existing 13a, creating a line that will probably be in the 14 to 14+ range. premature to guess right now, but so it seems. that one i'll probably open up to any takers cuz i'll be occupied with babe extension, and don't see a less than multi-year effort for me to possibly rp it (if i ever could!). a good year, on many fronts!

i'm not sure what the above is exactly addressing, and rarely is one single event/thingamajig the problem, but certainly many (all?) "isms" present a problem, because they seemingly become more important to their followers than the facts and realities on the ground. yes, but it does seem that the "values of the culture", along with the "daily individual action and habit" are both dramatically affected by the "isms" that both they and the leadership profess to follow. note the effects of "freedomism" and "choicism" on the current domestic narrative of health-care reform. a little overly dramatic, considering historical events and struggles.

i suppose we could argue about the reasons why he "hasn't delivered". i would suggest that "capitalists" have differing relationships to "capitalism" itself, but in the end, any form of proposed structural change to a system is of course limited by one's allegiance to that particular system. in other words, the system's existence itself must be protected, which opens the door, i believe, to the behaviour we are witnessing now inre obama (BECAUSE of the fact that he identifies himself as a "capitalist").

obama's a self-avowed capitalist: i dont think there is anything so grandly surprising in anything above (beyond the emotive grandstanding and superlatives of the author). while he toots his populist horn, i think anyone with a clear mind saw that no deep structural changes would come about as a result of his presidency; while i don't doubt he might feel morally driven to pay lip service to the sins he sees around him (something the republicans won't even do), i just don't think he has the wherewithal or fortitude to deliver. that's why my conscience drove me to vote for nader.

well put. succinct and to the point. their posts belong in spray, or in their own rant column.

if i owned this website, you and dwayner would have had your very own forum a hell of a long time ago. you could have named it anything you want-get creative here-and there you would have gone on and on about your pet peeves about sportos and blah blah blah. i would never have put up with your insistent whining on every thread for as long as the owners of this site have. if you didn't stay in your forum, then it's B-BYE! as things are, you should be hella greatful that you both haven't been 86'd for your insistence on being such incessant pests. which is what you are. pests. wah wah wah cuz your posts got moved? what a sense of entitlement!

dave macleod has a new book out. could be good, might even order it. i like macleod cuz he's honest, he's been there (climbs hella good), is completely committed, and started from scratch ie was a gumby, no natural. and multiple injuries he's recovered from.

yeah i think they do mainly singles and some doubles. couple of points: firstly, would there be a need for most to adopt such a rigorous training program? i think there are only a few people who would be interested in pushing their bodies to these extremes, and to be very proficient at most activities would NOT require this type of approach. but for those few who are, then it becomes an experiment: what happens if i commit to two weeks of training at X intensity? 4 weeks? 6 weeks? what format would this be? can i commit to dragging my ass to the wall 3 times a day, 6 days a week? can i honestly gauge the condition of my elbows, finger pulleys, etc? can i handle potentially feeling like crap for a couple of weeks? and for what? some strange goal of "climbing harder"? wtf? buahahahahaaaa. interesting tid-bit: read recently about some chinese mid distance runners, and how they had (have?) these super intense weeks where they would run 175 miles at speed. NOT just jogging along, but shorter fast runs multiple times a day, all week. that's friggin 7 marathons a week. they won a coupla golds i think, and then disappeared?

actually i think just you should shut the hell up. perhaps pope too. your level of discourtesy has been quite over the top. i mean really, what would yahweh say? the jewish god of vengeance would smite you.

?????????????? 14 question marks indicate either a number of questions, or one very burning question: may I help you with either scenario?

oh good lord, man. seriously.

uhhh....look above: you don't call that work? sheezle.

you bring nothing to this discussion. please stick to things you understand. Now sit down.

i think i mentioned how i worked up to a minute (or more) and then upped the intensity so the hangs would be shorter, finally culminating in weighted hangs for 5 secs or so, repeated multiple times (the progression happening over a month or two). yeah i think my thinking was in line with your last sentence above. i don't think one needs to approach it this way, but it seems a little safer perhaps if one works up to the intensities of hard fingerboard work, instead of jumping right in with weighted 3/8" edge hangs.

i'm not sure what you are talking about with cubicle, since i haven't sat in one for a decade, but i'm glad you enjoyed your exciting adventure. what does the holy text of judaism say about grave-robbery, btw? it is all good, pretty much. i mean sure there are those who find something to complain about wherever they go, but i kinda like the "everything is perfect exactly the way it is, and there is room for improvement" approach. i think the the holy texts of judaism talk about this issue too, and how one shouldn't be bitter and whiny all the time (it's really a sin against god). i think even yahweh cracked a little smile, man. get over yourself; it's what god wants you to do.

yeah 3 identified muscle types, methinks. my training might look like this: AM power session, which might just be 10 or 20 moves at max intensity and speed, maybe some more, lately analogous to particular climbs. if i feel fresh, i might then do maximum strength. repeaters on crimps on steep wall, 5 sec on 5 sec off repeats, where 3 to 5 reps takes me to failure. maybe 5 sets each hand. various other max strength things might get thrown in, like mono hangs, lock offs, underclings, wide grip stuff, particular moves of a route.... afternoon, intervals. this can take various forms, from repeats on boulder problems, to single move repeats on a 5 second cycle. usually the work period is from 30 secs to 3 minutes (ugh!), depending on what i'm working. usually closer to 30. let's say it's 45 secs work period, then rest will be 45 secs. then work, rest, aiming for about 5 repeats per set. close to failure at the end of work period at 3 reps, then perhaps failing on rep 4 and 5 close to end of 45 secs. the work period can consist of various repeats, just single moves, or even simply straight arm hangs on a 3/4" edge on my steep wall (55 degrees), switching every 5 secs. very quantifiable and qualifiable. and very painful. i like to train these with friends cuz it's much easier to get siked for the pain (especially for the longer intervals). i might rest 20 minutes and do another set. and then again in the evening, i might do another set of intervals, or power, or strength, depending on how i'm feeling. i might have this type of day two or three days in a row, and usually by then i'm really needing a rest day. if i go 4 or 5 days, i notice i start to get sniffles and be on the edge of getting sick, plus i get cranky and life starts to suck. it's a fine line between maximum training and over-training. dave macleod talks about this in interesting detail, and how he skirts this line continually at times. and all of the above gets varied quite a bit. i rarely have identical weeks.

we as humans with this conceptualizing mind of ours love to break things into tiny little pieces, with "multiple muscle characteristics" being an example of this proclivity (i'm not getting on you; i do this too!). then we think these different characteristics are somehow exclusive of each other, not realizing that they are all connected. sport climbing a 60 foot pitch at one's limit doesn't usually call just one "muscle characteristic" into play, so why should training? perhaps we will soon discover that training maximum one rep strength for one set followed immediately by 2 minutes of the highest intensity movement one is capable of for that 2 minutes is the next miracle training for, say, that which is called "stamina", or "strength endurance". i'm no paradigm of high standard virtue, but i'll quite often train burn, power and strength in the same session, or at least in the same day. i seem to be able to do this, with all three performed at quality execution level, so i keep at it (i wouldn't necessarily suggest this as a standard approach (although i wouldn't try to dissuade someone); it works for me). the reason i do this is because, for the climbs i am trying, it makes no sense to work one area for a while, drop it and work on something else, and then have to build the other area back up again. all three (which are not separate in any absolute sense) are needed by me on the same climb, so it makes sense to continually, at the highest intensity, work these areas all the time as much as my body can handle. if one area is called for more than the other, or if one is a weakness, then i'll adjust the training accordingly. another reason i do this is because i don't have the time or the DESIRE to hang out at the crags all day, climbing on my projects. might this be good training in general? sure, but i much prefer training at home, in my gym, in my own space, on my own schedule, listening to leonard cohen and meshuggah and the wipers on my stereo.

for sure, that's part of it. experiment. experiment intelligently. try different things out. don't jsut read a book and then become a slave to the prescripts. i'm not saying this won't help getting you strong/climbing harder (if that's your goal): there's no doubt in my mind that following Performance Rock Climbing or Horst's book or others will improve your climbing if you follow the workouts and actually do them for a few months (depending on where you are in your climbing); trying hard to the best of your abilities etc. but is it the "best" approach, the quickest approach, the most inspiring approach, the only approach? of course not. my reason for posting was simply cuz i like talking about this shit. i like musing about different training ideas, different workouts, etc. and finding out what others do and how it's worked for them in their discipline (preferrably sport climbing or bouldering, since that's my discussion!). hearing their theories, and being able to articulate REASONING, not just a bunch of regurgitated theories that they can't explain/defend. actually, i don't even care about the last point; hearing about any theory is cool. it's all up for discussion.

i think adam ondra falls into the "climb all the time on really hard routes" camp, but i'm not sure. i do seem to remember reading that many days will go by before any rest days. he has freakishly large hands. his pinky looked as big as my index finger. in the foto i saw.

you are a perfect establishment tool. what is your skill set? i might be able to use you.

and periodization is inferior in the above situation, with no evidence of its superiority or preferrability in any situation.

that could be a valid point. i don't know if i agree or not, but i read that the soviet's approach actually required more anabolics and hormones because of the immense volume of their training. and that furthermore, the bulgarians were pretty lean lifters, dominating in the middle weights, whereas the soviet middle-weight lifters bulked up and passed into the heavy-weights because of both the sheer volume of lifting and the amount of drugs..... who knows, not i.

i think he's a bit of a "periodizer", whereas ondra's approach seems closer to a bulgarian powerlifter.