Kimmo

that is quite funny. nice send, marc. is it accurate to say the difficulty is almost a boulder problem? from the photos it looks like the hardness is kinda short. and is it easy to set up a top-rope? way to slay!

nice work! Good to have a hard one up there now, hehe. Now check out Black Magic extension if the weather cooperates. I think you'd like the moves.

fah, who cares about some slab route at index; did you fire baby fight yet? bahahahaaaa actually, sounds fun. am eager to explore up thataway a bit in the future.

thanks for the ideas, but it's my wife's foot, and it's a pretty small foot. we might build another shoe for her out of balsa wood or something, if we don't find it.

Lost, one right foot Boreal Ace, old school black w/green. size ~36'ish or so.... maybe at forest land, maybe tumwater campground, maybe elsewhere:) thanks!

no i didn't. thanks.

Somewhere in Leavenworth area! Probably around Forestland, maybe in Tumwater canyon. Small right foot old school black and green Ace. Probably fell out of pack. Thanks.

Somewhere in Leavenworth area! Probably around Forestland, maybe in Tumwater canyon. Small right foot old school black and green Ace. Probably fell out of pack. Thanks.

i remember seeing dave climbing at little si years ago, and it's not an overstatement to say that climbing completely changed for me that day. he graced his way up chronic, exerting seemingly no effort at all. it was obvious that his relationship to "climbing" was different than anyone else's i'd seen, and totally inspired me to bring that consciousness to my own climbing. as a result, i have ended up enjoying "climbing" wayyyy more than i ever did before. thanks dave!

i think ben g freed it too. i don't think it's gotten a lot of attention from those capable of freeing it.

you have to fall on gear to learn to trust it. if you really do know what bomber gear is, then place a few pieces where the fall is completely safe and: firstly hang on the gear, then climb a few inches above it and let go, then a foot above, two feet above, etc etc. and work up to a few feet and then maybe more. get to the point where it's actually fun to fall, as in play. it's possibly! maybe even have a top-rope backing up your falls.... if you don't get comfortable falling on gear, then you'll only enjoy climbing well below your limits (which is of course fine), and everything else will be a not fun fear-fest. the warrior's way and dave mcleod address this issue pretty well, if i remember right.

i think leaving fixed draws is more of a convenience for future climbers. one situation where it isn't is when cleaning the route is dangerous, such as when you clean your last draw and are faced with a hard swing into trees or somesuch. definitely leave a fixed draw there. just make sure the bolts or fixed draws are reachable by people of all statures. it's sucky when shorter people crux out on the clips. spooner, a retro-bolted route at index that i just climbed, seems to suffer from this. i'm 6'1" and could barely make the reaches after the runouts. there's no reason to do this.

thanks for the responses. based on input, i think we're gonna head to a different crag!

so i tried to find fossil rock about a year ago with no luck. couldn't find a guide-book either. we're gonna find ourselves in the vicinity and wanted to take another look. specifically looking for the harder sport climbs-heard rumors about 5.12's and 5.13's? when i tried to find it last year, i walked out the logging road, took a right after about a mile or two, road wound up and around, and finally saw a big cliff, but was hopelessly over-grown and inaccessible. no idea if i was in the right area. info appreciated!

cunning stunt is a really fun climb that protects well with gear. and yes, i've lead it without bolts on multiple occasions. the "flake" you mention takes solid gear low and left, creating very little torsion at that point. the reason i get a little irked about its bolt status is because it was originally lead with very little fixed gear (one bolt and one pin?), but somehow bolts kept appearing (and reappearing), thanks to the same fellow who bolted angora grotto, a hand-crack, and other gear protectable climbs at index. this same fellow went so far as to bolt on a plastic hold on a route in the cave at nason ridge, a route that i subsequently climbed without its use. and yes, i think raindawg could lead cunnning stunt with gear too, since he's been training and is getting close to 5.13. he has momentum.

damn, even more bolts have been added to the climb. gotta love 'em right next to cracks. time to pay a visit.

WT hell? 3 feet? I'm seriously considering the 30' highballing I still do on occasion. 3 feet for rumr is pretty much the same as a 30 foot highball for the rest of us. you know, a height to height ratio thing.

actually, if you are good, you'll make 120 a day. at least in washington. more during cherry harvest. guys who come up from latin america will make a year's wages in just a month or two. it's kind of an incentive, you know? i imagine i'd be doing the same in their shoes.

I will make the rules. I will control the fungibles. And rule #1 will be: whoever has the most fungibles will make the most rules.

momentum

thanks sherri. we'll be there on a weekday, probably the tuesday after next, so maybe won't be running into anyone....

cool, thanks. we're gonna be over there for a couple of days, so i'm excited to check it out. btw, what's gonna happen to access when the dam gets removed?

I posted this in the Oly peninsula section too, but: Anyone know about the rock climbing around Port Angeles? I remember hearing about some sport climbing right out of town....

I remember hearing about some sport climbing right outside of PA; anyone know anything about this? topos or such? thanks!

good lord, the investigations are going to be endless.