JosephH

And every hold is solid, every placement is perfect...

Everyone has a god given right to whack a hornets nest and then stand there and watch - you just better be sure you have thick enough skin for the response before you swing that stick.

Perfect...

My fear is any dog you bring would be talking more than you...

Or the landmine treaty...

Huh? Off, you just moved a climbing topic out of a climbing forum because someone decided to be a dick? what's that about? Why bother with any forums at all? Just make it 'spray.com' if any dick can bump a legitimate thread into spray...? Last I checked the notion of 'moderating' in a forum is flagging and acting on inappropriate posts versus threads.

Bomber is in the mind of the beholder. I don't see the problem.

One half of one of our rap anchors for a work session clearing a rockfall scar back in 2006 - completely servicable. I'm not really seeing a problem with the op's au naturale anchor pic. I'm way more concerned about the temperament of all you youngins these days; or to quote Riddick: "skittish, Toombs - very skittish..."

I'd say it probably has a lot less to do with 'bureau pricks' and a lot more to do with not getting all the relevant stakeholders to the table from the beginning. Tribal governments are powerful and should not be brought to the table late in the game. It's also the reason you want to avoid doing or proposing things at your crag that will involve, by regulatory or policy mandate, a) the railroads b) the Washington Department of Archaeology and Historic Preservation (WDAHP) or c) Tribal governments. Add to that numerous Federal stakeholders and the opportunity to get had is pretty high as you are back to attempting to navigate / peel a regulatory 'onion'.

Just a note that the TC 'Free Mescalito' team just said they will be off of it by the 25th of this month. It's still likely to be crowded due to the NA Wall Peregrine closure, however.

Doesn't sound like anything was done about them if they were discussed before so maybe it really is the case no one gives a shit about them. However, inappropriate bolting is always going to be a valid topic in climbing forums vs. spray.

Oh, the piton thing doesn't take a lot of practice but what does is competently cleaning and placing heads. Given how often and easily they blow and how many deadheads you could potentially encounter, it might be more worth your time getting familiar with heading in general (on a road cut or someplace similar).

Pitons are more a matter of what's needed and what works best for any given route or placement - the concept of 'favorite' doesn't really much enter in to it. Hammers, on the other hand, are subject to personal preference. Bill Coe has hammer threads here and on ST that show the various options. The choices of what you can buy is somewhat limited at the moment, but pretty much any of the hammers available should suffice for the small amount of nailing required on Mescalito. The objective is still to reach for a hammer as little as possible and at least one [former] Beacon climber has done it entirely clean fairly recently. Another Mescalito note: it will be the first open route west of the North American Wall Peregrine closure this May (primetime) and likely very busy as a result. It's also been the focus of a big free climbing push by Tommy Caldwell and that could be a problem if they're back on it. In any case, I'm guessing you'll want to start early, try to move as fast as you can, and be prepared to let other parties pass if you end up moving slow.

Aand you guys wag fingers about incessant babbling over inconsequential choss piles...?

As in overgrown by poison oak - bring your plastic underwear.

There are plenty of mixed routes at Beacon; of course there is also a route every six feet over the entire south face at Beacon as well, so almost by definition most new route opportunity is happening on the NW face or on some of the more dangerous ground N of YW.

Don't attempt to put up sport routes in trad areas and you'll be fine (and the recent chopping drama was about a mixed route, not a sport one).

Just when you think you have all the right tools for the job. Glad I'm not a gear whore...

Scared off many a climber that wasn't up to it is more like it.

And fortunately will be easily shoveled off the slide everytime it appears...

It would be perfectly fine with me if 99.9% of public perception about climbing in SW WA and Oregon began and ended with Mt. Hood and Smith Rocks.

I believe if you took a poll of the locals you find I'm pretty much considered just as much of a pain in the ass nut job in person as I am on the internet. Beacon is a trad oasis in a sea of sport climbing - hell, it's Oregon and Smith - it's America's sport climbing capitol for all practical purposes and PDX climbing tastes by and large reflect that. But I don't give a rat's ass what or how folks climb so long as Beacon stays trad - it's a simple deal.

There are plenty of sport climbing crags here and if they got chased off those it wasn't by me or anyone I know. And if they were trad climbing they certainly wouldn't be hassled in anyone in any manner whatsoever. So, names or not, any such claim would seem mighty strange. Sounds like a perfect outcome, however.

Over here Lanex Tendon (Czech) ropes are called Metolius Monster ropes...

You'd really need to come up with a bolt ladder / via ferrata hybrid for every route to qualify this as really opening things up safely for future generations of climbers. And who knows, maybe they'll get the price of iPhone 6g controlled autobelay systems down low enough so that one of those could go on every route.