JosephH

Yeah, yeah, from one enigma to another...

Check in with Steve Roti on this list: http://ozreport.com/docs/USHGABOD2006contactlist.pdf Steve's not a climber, but being from Bend flys with quite a few who are...

Just once and wasn't clipping bolts, but personally don't care much of climbing granite. The only thing I thought looked really interesting was the left half of Sentinel. But hey, I don't need to be a Valley regular to make the statement I did, it would be no different if we were talking Eldo or the Gunks - go to any of the three to clip bolts and you're missing the point entirely. Are you saying clipping bolts is what you go to the Valley for? Are you advocating for sport climbs in Black Canyon or on Cannon as well (oh, and please do feel free to take mod liberties with my forum name if it makes you feel better about the conversation or yourself). Either way it's pretty cute of you to leap in and champion someone who deliberately chose to be a complete putz in this conversation - personally I'd like to think it's not a matter of you feeling the need to 'stick together' with them, but who can say.

Done, Beacon will likely open on the 15th or 16th; have to clean up after the massize rockfall for the day or two before the open as stuff is raining down on YW p1-3.

You might not just be jacking off your mouth in this context if you could get up my routes, as it is you're flapping your lips. But then lately you have been coming off just like the sort of victimal, play-it-safe putz who would go to the Valley to clip bolts.

Going to the Valley to sport climb is like going to a whore house to masturbate.

If you're going to be doing such littering then those cheap SS draws of fendorfour's combined with area51's class camo'ing would seem like a good way to go [as chains are pretty sucky].

I wouldn't worry about them being that close together in normal basalt, but that stuff looks a bit sketch in that regard (hard to tell from a pic of course).

Correct. It does qualify, it just means that you don't want it to qualify and that you're lazy and / or self-absorbed. Not at all. But, if you are going to vertically litter (especially in a place it's illegal to climb) then at least camo your trash.

Rat Cavers take note...

Or make that funk-test them to the strength of 2mm.

A good bounce test, or bounce test until a 2mm accessory cord breaks would probably suffice...

Wish that were the case, but some pre- and post-recall and non-dimpled 04-05 Aliens have failed, though any 05 cam would be suspect for sure. Best bet would be to hope for the best with pre- and post-recall cams and give any Alien that hasn't been fallen on a good bounce test.

What are the dates on them...? And do either have a small punched 'dimple' just below the round head the axle goes through...?

Opening Info ========== Based on the data from monitoring sessions done Saturday, Sunday, and today, Beacon Rock will open between 7/13 and 7/16, the exact day has yet to be determined. The chicks were not flying Sunday, but two were today and likely took their first flight yesterday or we witnessed it today. One more likely chick is still not flying yet. The two that are flying are making short, ungainly flights and not so great landings to nearby ledges like the 'Flying Swallow' ledge, top of 'Blownout', and the SE Corner rap ledges. But, it should be noted that 'fledging' is not an event, but rather a process. Despite the oft [mis]quoted "once they're flying..." quip, Beacon never has and never will open on the chicks' first flight - it opens, and the chicks are considered fledged - once they've achieved sustained flight, can land competently, and so are in a position to be flight/hunting-trained by the parents. That process takes roughly two weeks which has been the consistent opening criteria both since the closures began and in all six years I've been assisting with the monitoring. Massive Rockfall Cleanup =================== A bigger issue at hand is that we'll need to do a significant pre-opening cleanup as a result of a massive rockfall that occured during the final significant winter storm in the last week of March. The storm ice-loaded the large 'bonsai' tree that was down about a 100' from the spot on the high SE ridge ramp where the SE Corner and YW meet. The tree sat atop the finish to the 'Lost Variation' and 'Lost Warriors'; it was old, had a very large circumference, and was well-rooted into a significant stretch of the lower SE ridge ramp high above the base of YW. When it was blown down in the storm it took out about a 30-40 section of the lower SE ridge ramp with it dwarfing the 2006 rockfall (at the base of the SE ridge ramp finish to the Corner / YW). In fact, so much rock came down immediately right of YW it clearcut all the trees from the YW base over to where the trail steps up on the rock under 'Stone Rodeo' and obliterated all trace of the trail through that stretch. And while the tree at the base of YW itself was somehow miraculously spared, a large portion of the rocks forming the rightside of the YW base and the base itself are also gone. It also rained significant rocks OVER the railroad protection fence wires onto the tracks. Pictures can be seen here: http://s124.photobucket.com/albums/p35/healyje/2010%20Lost%20Warrior%20Tree%20Rockfall/ Today's monitoring session with David Anderson and Carl Hinsley, the new BRSP Head Ranger, was from the wildlife refuge out from the SE Corner and, with David's spotting scope, finally provided a decent view of the rockfall scar. The good news is that the view of the scar with binoculars from out on Route 14 gave the impression of there being several large blocks that to trundle would require closing the railroad tracks, but on closer examination today it turns out to instead be cleanly sheared-off sections of stone. Again, good news, but there are still several fairly huge deposits of loose rocks on ramps hanging directly above the YW base which have to be cleaned up before the opening or trail repair work. The high cleanup work in and below the rockfall scar will be substantial, but will not require coordinating with the railroad which is a huge relief given Carl hasn't really hadn't had much luck connecting with them before today. Another reason it's great news is that the railroad just told him the Route 14 road work up at the 54 mile marker ended up shutting down the tracks for days longer than originally promised and that didn't go over well with the railroad. So now any work that has the potential to close the tracks requires signed agreement paperwork and four weeks notice - we'd have been screwed if we did need to do a coordinated drop. Whew! Carl is now lining up a copy of the agreement in the evenT we ever do need to use it in the future. So the plan as coordinated today is to do a survey of the rockfall scar two days prior to the final opening date in order to assess the scope of work and possibly set temporary work anchors (this possibility is also the reason Opdycke and I made the call to leave that pin up on the SE ridge notch which was removed, but happily sent back [thanks]). The day before the open we'll do the cleanup and rap / clean all of YW. The trail repair work will be done on opening day. We'll also probably take a shot at cleaning up Grassy Ledges while we're doing the pre-open work session so hopefully there will be less early season rockfall at the SE Corner base than last year. So that's the story and I'll post up here again when a final date has been set. Notes: ===== * The trail is still closed, and the BRSP has asked that folks wait until the opening and not go down to see the rockfall prior to that. * We'll do our best to thoroughly cleanup after this event, but this will be a very good year to wear a helmet on 'Young Warriors', 'Boardwalk', and 'Rythmn Method' at least until a few post-cleanup summer storms sweep through and maybe just a good idea period.

Please, tell me that's a troll! On what pitch? What, a 60m pitch with a crux in the final moves [carrying a heavy rack]?

Any updates?

Kevin's wife Maggie is clearly a pro-boner attorney and tough enough to take on any bureaucracy.

Justin, you're right, I know of one person who spent 13 months hooked to and dragging around an IV of antibiotics after letting the lymes thing get away from them. Even after it was all over they're still pretty much fucked.

Hope this turns out alright. Don't know the circumstances or details of this particular accident, but folks new to Rocky Butte should understand it's one of the most dangerous climbing areas imaginable (or at least that I've ever encountered) with respect to being unroped at the top of the cliffs. It's slick as snot up there even on a sunny days, if it has rained in recent days. Be exceedingly cautious when manuvering around the tops of those cliffs and under no circumstances should you underestimate the 'slip-and-slide' factor out there. Edit: Throw ratty extra ropes in your car for trips to RB and tie-in off a tree if you have even the slightest doubts about navigating near an edge out there to set up a TR.

The idea of a legitimate, non-sexual massage for money is about as common in most of the US as no-smoking blues club. It's somewhat understandable that someone could stumble into PDX and not realize the distinction might actually exist here. The rest of the US has been catching up with the West Coast in this regard over the past decade or two, but misunderstandings still probably happen all the time with traveling professionals.

A rope for that sounds like a real bother, much easier and way less hassle to just yoyo solo it. Then again it is a way burly 5.4+ pitch.

That's progress Kenny, real progress. Keep it up the good work.

And Jim is wrong - the chicks are not flying. You can go check (best view from the boat launch), but sorry, they won't be flying by tomorrow.

From the same guy who's eight total cc posts manage to include these gems: Given you don't care about Beacon and didn't get an answer from the other thread you'll forgive me for not wasting my breath here.