JosephH

Slathered. Even got a call about...

Who unloaded on the first pitch of Blownout...?

If I could tap my heels three times and turn the cascades into sandstone I'd do it in a heartbeat. C'est la vie...

For granite, instead of doubles of the HB/DMM Offset Alloys I'd use one set of them and one set of symmetrical/straight-sided nuts.

Blasphemy! Well, the bottom line for me is that I find the physical movement over granite to be alternately dreadfully boring and / or painful. Eastern and Midwestern andstone tends to lend itself to far more creative movement. NW basalt is fairly entertaining, but for the most part also entails a fairly bounded set of physical movements.

Hmmm, tricams are so twentieth century. Haven't carried them since then as they're pretty much pointless on basalt and sandstone which is what I enjoy. But they do have there place on granite which, truth be told, I don't care all that much for.

Good thing you guys stayed up there, it was a god-awful inferno down here that whole stretch. Glad to see you all had such a good time.

They aren't needed. And neither are the bolts on the first and second pitch.

See, this shit happens. I was a complete bonehead and forgot my harness so ended up doing Blownout in this rig today and rapping with slings and a carabiner brake.

Well, it sure is keeping a lot of 'em down on the farm around here...

It's farming the young humans that's what keeps'em from climbing - the chickens usually just mean babies are happening or about to.

Chickens are a sure sign the 28-36 yo crowd has been, or is about to be, reduced to next to no climbing because of new parental responsibilities.

Yeah, http://www.notube.com/charlie-fowler/its-easy-to-be-easy-when-you're-easy

Charlie free soloed the Integral Route, not Pervertical Sanctuary.

You ever heard of Charlie Fowler? You and Mark must be high. Charlie didn't free solo 'that' route.

Climbing is inherently self-indulgent. You might as well be attempting to write something insightful about orgasms or acid trips as far as conveying your experience to others goes. That's why even over decades I've only rarely read anything about actual climbs that wasn't either a droll recitation, a tedious puff-n-blow, or an incoherent rant. It does happen, but overall - like porn - the verbiage and sound are by and large pretty awkward and entirely optional. P.S. I'd have to side with Bill's wheat 'n chaff assessment of Pat's writing even if it is a whole lot of sifting for the grain...

Apparently it was in this case...

The official script was written some time ago: Y'know, I'm just happy to be here and hope I can help climbing. I just want to give it my best shot and good Lord willing, things'll work out. Gotta climb'em one day at a time, Y'know...

When Charlie did it he basically couldn't sit staring at the fire thinking about having just broken up with a gf any longer and just disappeared, wouldn't bet for sure even he knew what he was going to be doing beyond not sitting there any longer (and no, I wasn't with him to know for sure, but climbed [briefly] with him not long before and heard the tale through mutual friends and that's the story they told). Can't really fathom the staged commercial version, but then there was no money to be had back then for just climbing well. But, if that's all you're going to do, the money has to come from somewhere.

Huh? Mythos are about as stiff as flip-flops. TC Pros are the new 'Kaukulators'.

So a guy climbs a cliff enabled and protected solely by the fact fixed pro has been installed for him to do it, otherwise he wouldn't be there in the first place. Got it.

As a atheist who's 'born again' every day, that's just way more faith than I can muster.

If he had put the bolts in it likely would have been clearer they were unecessary, but it sounds like a dab or two of epoxy would fix it either way.

Yeah, the Rat collective. It isn't over the edge of a road like Ozone, it's instead right there in plain sight and a tad too public in a busy, heavy-use area. Sooner or later it will likely draw some attention from the commission and it will go way better if they've made some attempt to 'fit in' and be 'good faith' user segment relative to the way the Act is interpreted and enforced. If folks are done there it's one thing, but if the idea is they plan on continuing to climb there and develop it further they should give some serious consideration to lowering their visual impact as I've seen how this sort of thing can go down at windsurfing sites over the years. 'Fuck off' might feel good, but likely won't play well if and when it hits the radar. With you on the boltless hole thing. Don't do it near protectable rock and if you're going to put a hole in the rock then might as well put something solid and camo'd in it.

Speaking of camo'd hangers - if a certain crew of PDX cave dwellers were smart, they'd camo all their hangers and chains; they'd also swap out all the colored tat for gray and black webbing only. Otherwise I suspect, sooner or later, the commish is going to be down on them in a big way as it's just too visible and accessible to the public. Not like it would be that tough a job either - hell, so easy even a caveman could do it. P.S. I'd recommend http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=31 (the dark gray / black, third from the left) used with a cardboard cutout mask during spraying