Sorry 'bout the tardiness of posting this:
* * * * * *
Dear Club Members,
Thank you for the astounding and heartwarming answer to our call to help the
high mountain villages in Pakistan devastated by a magnitude 7.6 earthquake. The
lobby of the American Alpine Club filled with boxes of tents, sleeping bags and
winter clothing. They spilled down the hall and surrounded the climbing wall. On
November 21 and 22, the AAC staff and dozens of volunteers spent two full days
packing the gear and clothing for shipment, sorting carefully to make sure that
everything that goes over is of adequate winter quality. Inappropriate items
were donated to Goodwill in the Denver area.
In addition to individuals' contributions, we received or facilitated the
following generous corporate gifts:
* Wild Things: 100 sleeping bags
* Climb Axe: 110 pairs OneSport boots and 100 overboots
* Indigo Equipment: 100 pairs of gloves
* International Mountain Guides: 20 tents
* Jackson Hole Mountain Guides: 10 tents
* American Alpine Institute: 20 tents
* Patagonia: Three large boxes of new clothing, plus 21,000 items being
shipped directly from Paris
* Everestgear.com: Matched purchases made for this effort
* DHL: Shipped collected clothing and gear for free from Golden to Pakistan
* Pakistan International Airlines: Free shipping from New York to Islamabad
* Trango: Donated boxes for shipping
Thanks also are due to the New York Section's Todd Fairbairn, Holley Edelson and
Phil Erard, who collected gear in Manhattan, saving time and shipping dollars.
Greg Mortenson of the Central Asia Institute will be checking in with the Alpine
Club of Pakistan to help ensure that mountain-ready tents, sleeping bags and
winter clothing go directly to the mountain valleys where it is needed. We also
have raised more than $15,000 in cash from generous members, which the Alpine
Club of Pakistan will spend on medicines and food to send along with the
clothing and shelter. Currently the plan is to take the equipment by truck, jeep
and then donkey up the Kagham Valley (above Balakot toward Nanga Parbat) and the
Neelum Valley (east of Muzzafarabad).
Separately, I want to applaud some other efforts that we are aware of. I
communicated with Tex Bossier of Patagonia Europe, which is sending 21,000 items
to the Alpine Club of Pakistan for distribution. The North Face has launched a
program very similar to ours. If you missed the opportunity to donate to this
effort, you can drop off gear at a North Face store near you until November 23.
Check locations at http://www.thenorthface.com/na/news/news-20051111.html.
Pakistan's citizens will face many long-term needs as a result of this
devastating earthquake. Once people get through this winter, there will still be
1.2 million children without schools. We are working with Greg Mortenson of the
Central Asia Institute to determine how to help with this problem as the snows
melt in the spring.
Again, I want to thank all of you. Your prompt response and generosity have been
extremely gratifying.
Phil Powers
Executive Director
ppowers@americanalpineclub.org
EXCITING SPEAKERS SET FOR '06 MOUNTAIN FEST
The 2006 AAC Annual Meeting and Mountain Fest, February 10-12, in Attitash, New
Hampshire, will feature a superb line-up of speakers. Headlining the
Saturday-night dinner will be a rare talk by George Lowe, one of the key figures
in North American mountaineering history. On Friday night, the great Indian
climber and author Harish Kapadia will introduce us to some fantastic climbing
opportunities in the Indian Himalaya. Saturday-afternoon speakers include Vince
Anderson on an alpine-style first ascent on the Rupal Face of Nanga Parbat, Sue
Nott on alpine climbs from Alaska to Europe and Asia, Joe Terravecchia on the
huge but little-known rock and ice climbs of Newfoundland, and Alexander Ruchkin
on the punishing first ascent of the North Face of Jannu and the Russian
approach to alpinism. Add to this the usual camaraderie of AAC meetings and two
days of climbing clinics on the short but stout ice cliffs of New Hampshire, and
the 2006 Mountain Fest will be one to remember. Registration materials and
lodging information are now available at
http://www.americanalpineclub.org/community/events-annual.asp
Important note: Mid-February is peak ski season in the White Mountains. Please
book your lodging and make travel arrangements as soon as possible!
AAC GRANT FUNDS HOT SEASON IN PERU
Andy Wellman, a 24-year-old from Colorado, enjoyed a superb season in the
Cordillera Blanca of Peru, thanks in part to a Mountaineering Fellowship Fund
award from the AAC. Wellman and James Woods completed the second ascent of Karma
de los Condores (IV 5.11d) on Hatun Ulloc and then continued up the unclimbed
upper reaches of the tower to within 60 meters of the top, where filthy cracks
halted their one-day attempt. Wellman and Woods repeated the 1972 Czech ice
route on Pisco Oeste's South Face in 10 hours, and then, with Tyler Anderson,
made the second ascent of the direct South Face of Mururaju (aka Nevado Pongos).
Along with numerous other ascents, Wellman completed a creative goal on his
third attempt: a one-day round trip from Huaraz to a Cordillera Blanca summit.
He and Anderson took a taxi at 4 a.m. to Jancu and climbed the Northeast Face
and North Ridge of 5,434-meter Huamashraju to the summit, descended to the base
at dusk, and then rode mountain bikes in the dark for two hours back to Huaraz.
Mountaineering Fellowship Fund grants assist climbers 25 or younger with
exploration and cutting-edge climbs. Get more info at
http://www.americanalpineclub.org/knowledge/grants.asp.
MEANWHILE IN HUASCARAN NATIONAL PARK...
Action is still needed to help reverse new regulations that would dramatically
alter the climbing experience in the Cordillera Blanca of Peru. The UIAA
recently approved a motion introduced by AAC President Mark Richey: "The UIAA
strongly encourages that the PNH [Huascaran National Park] and INRENA [Peru's
interior department] work cooperatively with their Peruvian Mountaineering
Federations and those of other countries with an interest in the park to
establish and adopt policies and use regulations regarding climbing and trekking
within the PNH that are fair and beneficial to both local and visiting climbers,
environmental concerns and the local guiding agencies as well."
If the new regulations are implemented as written, climbers will only be able to
access the most popular peaks and routes (an estimated 80 of the 600 or so known
routes within the park), must climb with a local mountain guide (at a ratio of
one guide per two clients), and will not be able to visit the park between
December and March.
To voice your concerns, email Leoncio Alvarez Vasquez (Mr. Alvarez) at
lalvarez@inrena.gob.pe . Please copy any emails to Mr. Alvarez's assistant at
jbarrios@inrena.gob.pe and to the head of protected areas, Carlos Salinas, at
csalinas@inrena.gob.pe . Though communication in Spanish is ideal, any language
will work. See a copy of Mark Richey's letter to the Peruvian authorities at
http://www.americanalpineclub.org/docs/R...ez--9-2005.doc.
A background article on Huascaran National Park regulations by AAC member Jim
Bartle is posted at www.americanalpineclub.org/docs/2004_Winter_AAN.pdf.
NOMINATIONS SOUGHT FOR SOWLES AWARD
The David A. Sowles Memorial Award is given to mountaineers who have
distinguished themselves-with unselfish devotion, at personal risk or sacrifice
of a major objective-in going to the assistance of fellow climbers imperiled in
the mountains. The award was established in 1981 and is dedicated to the memory
of David A. Sowles, who was killed at the age of 29 during a lightning storm in
the Alps on August 4, 1963. Letters of recommendation are currently being
accepted for this prestigious award. Nominations should be forwarded to
committee chairman Charley Mace at charleymace@comcast.net .
JAPANESE ALPINE CLUB CELEBRATES CENTENNIAL
In October, the Japanese Alpine Club celebrated its 100th birthday, and AAC
President Mark Richey, along with Teresa Richey and past Vice President Linda
McMillan, joined the party at a gala dinner in Tokyo attended by nearly 1,000
people. Richey delivered an address celebrating Japanese accomplishments in
world mountaineering and chatted with His Imperial Highness the Crown Prince of
Japan about their shared passion for wild places. He also made a brief, rainy
visit to the granite crags of Ogawayama. You can read Richey's address to the
Japanese Alpine Club at www.americanalpineclub.org/JAC_address.html.
LUMPY RIDGE TRAILS DAY
For the fifth consecutive year, the AAC hosted the Lumpy Ridge Trails Day in
Colorado's Rocky Mountain National Park. This year, 63 volunteers collaborated
to improve climber access trails to one of the most popular and photogenic rock
features at Lumpy Ridge: the Twin Owls. The NPS provided six trail-crew
employees who worked with the volunteers to complete a facelift over 500
vertical feet of extremely rugged trail. More than 130 wood and rock steps and
seven drains were installed to help check storm runoff and act as stairs. For
more information on this event please visit
http://www.americanalpineclub.org/community/section_central_rockies.asp.
ARTIST NEEDED FOR POSTER DESIGN
The AAC is looking for a skilled artist or designer to volunteer his or her
talents and create a poster for the 2006 Annual Meeting and Mountain Fest. If
you're interested in lending a hand, contact Lloyd Athearn at
lathearn@americanalpineclub.org .
GREAT GEAR AT GREAT PRICES!
Just in time for holiday shopping, the AAC soon will launch its annual online
auction with dozens of great items to bid on, including clothing and gear from
sponsors such as Patagonia, LEKI, Montrail, Mountain Hardwear, JetBoil, Asolo,
Lowe Alpine and The North Face, along with beautiful photography, guided trips
and more! All proceeds support core member services like the American Alpine
Journal, the AAC Library, rescue insurance, and mountain conservation. Please
stay tuned for details; we will be sending you an email with all you need to
know.
CLUB SEEKS MARKETING INTERN
Interested in marketing and nonprofit development? Like to hang out with
climbers? The AAC is seeking an intern to assist with marketing and fund-raising
projects. Contact Nigel Gregory at 303-384-0110, ext. 15, or
ngregory@americanalpineclub.org.
MAKE YOUR ANNUAL GIFT ONLINE
Considering a year-end gift to the AAC? It is now easier than ever with the
introduction of an online giving program. To make a contribution, please visit
this link:
www.blacktie-colorado.com/online_sales/nonprofit_donation.cfm?id=1392. Or go to
the AAC website at www.americanalpineclub.org.
COMING EVENTS
November 30-December 1
Colorado
Susan E.B. Schwartz presents a slideshow based on her new book Into the Unknown:
The Remarkable Life of Hans Kraus, about the pioneering Gunks climber and
physician. Nov. 30: 7 p.m. at the Denver REI, 303-756-3100; Dec. 1: 8 p.m. at
Neptune Mountaineering in Boulder, 303-499-8866.
November 30-December 1
Washington
Andy Selters presents a multimedia show on the history of mountaineering in
North America, based on his award-winning, AAC-published Ways to the Sky. Nov.
30: 7:30 p.m. at the HUB West Ballroom, University of Washington, $10;
206-522-1677. Dec. 1: 7 p.m., Western Washington University, Bellingham;
trepanc@cc.wwu.edu or 360-650-7533.
December 2
Massachusetts
Come to the Boston-area climbers' annual holiday bash, sponsored by the
Appalachian Mountain Club's Boston Chapter Mountaineering Committee and the AAC
New England Section. Info at www.atkinsopht.com/mtn/aacnesct.htm.
December 2
Colorado
The Backcountry Bash, a fund-raiser for the Backcountry Snowsports Alliance with
music, slides and gear auctions, will start at 6:30 p.m. at the downtown Denver
REI store. Call 303-494-5266 to purchase tickets.
December 4
California
Nick Clinch will regale the Sierra Nevada Section with tales from the 1960 first
ascent of K1 (Masherbrum) at the section's annual holiday dinner and party in
Berkeley. Cost is $48. To sign up, send a check to Ellen Lapham/SNS, 15215 Monte
Vista Drive, Nevada City, CA 95959. Tel.: 530-265-9117.
December 4
Colorado
A memorial service will be held for longtime mountain guide Mike Donahue, who
passed away in November. The service will be at 2:30 p.m. at the Aspen Lodge,
seven miles south of Estes Park on Hwy. 7.
December 16-17
Nevada
The 3rd annual Tahoe Adventure Film Festival, with films, guest speakers and a
giant action-photography display. Info at www.laketahoefilmfestival.com.
January 21
Colorado
The Central Rockies Section will host the premiere of "Skiing the High
Himalaya," a film by Mike Marolt. The evening will include food, drink, a "Lost
Images" show in which climbers will try to identify historic photos from the AAC
archives, and the new film of ski descents on Shishapangma and Everest. $20 for
the full evening at the American Mountaineering Center in Golden. Info at
http://www.americanalpineclub.org/community/section_central_rockies.asp.
January 21-22
New York
The New York Section's annual Adirondack Winter Outing, with ice climbing,
skiing and hiking. A formal invitation will be mailed to regional members around
year-end. Or, contact philiperard@nysalpineclub.org .
February 10-12
New Hampshire
The 2006 AAC Mountain Fest and annual meeting will be based at the Attitash
Grand Summit Hotel, smack in the middle of the White Mountains.
Climbing clinics, camaraderie and slideshows. Make your travel and lodging
arrangements now. See all the details at
http://www.americanalpineclub.org/community/events-annual.asp
E-NEWS POLICIES
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