Kevin_Matlock

Uh, yeah... The Eiger Sanction Clint... why???????

Quite correct, thanks for the clarity. This applies to NYLON ONLY. You should never knot spectra or dyneema. But, since I've never personally tested this theory, maybe someone braver than me should try it!

I'm headed up tonight so I'm not speaking from extremely recent experience, but it's pretty much just icy steps. I've seem info that the summit is suppose to be above freezing so that might make for some interesting crap falling. Be sure and hit it early. A decent amount of people rope up for the damn thing though... without pro... and setting WAY too much slack between them. If you rope up, short haul it so any falls can be arrested quickly. You don't want someone falling and then building up speed when they hit your end of the rope. It really doesn't warrant the rope anyway so lighten the pack and leave it at home.

(for the sake of newbs) tieing spectra or dyneema is a very bad thing. the material is slippery and will not hold the knot. using nylon webbing just isn't as strong. Besides, knots lower the breaking strength anyway. Best to do it the right way.

I took a couple of courses from Oregon Peak Adventures. Can't entirely endorse them though. If you are the slightest bit experienced, you will be bored too tears (I was anyway). If you are a complete newb you might find some of their stuff helpful. Nice enough staff, just seems more aimed at people with no prior experience. My .02

Screws are better on elliot since it's mostly hard pack. Flukes will do no good, but you can bang in pickets (and destroy the ends in the process). Could also dig a trench for an axe and do a dead man. Hogsback conditions vary from easy to icy depending on temps up high, but doubt it exceeds much more than 45 degrees.

Good job guys. Pics?

There is a theory that global warming could induce an ice age by halting northerly currents in the Pacific... Yeah, well we can certianly dream!

tyvek? the house wrap stuff? can't you get it at da' home depot?

How many showed last night? Sounded like several additional peeps were expecting to go and wondering where the hell you stuffed everyone. Prolly not going to be hard to outgrow that small stance. Any pics? We can dump the original plan of Wed, I don't have any reoccuring thing that keeps me from any one night so Tuesday or Thursday is ok. Tues might make more sense though for what Nolse said about sometimes heading out on a Thursday... but, makes no diff to me.

uhm.... decaf?

I've acutally been thinking of these guys. Did you buy retail, or did you get it through them direct (via their website)? Another post.... hmmmm, where is it..., oh here it is... ccw post ...really praises these guys. Sounds like they do customizations and are super easy to deal with and are very reasonably priced.

last week we were there until a little after 6:30, seems to me though that it would've gone as late as the last man standing.

I'm going to try and rearrange some shit and make it tomorrow instead of tonight.

Go read it again. When setting up a top rope it is important to make sure the the locking carabiner(s) the rope is doubled through is actually attached to the anchor. OH SHIT! Guess I completely missed that little tidbit. It would almost be funny if it weren't such a suckass thing to have happened. Rapping off a pile of rope laying on the ground... hmmm, yep, that tends not to hold body weight.

Don't mean invite thread creep, but it sounds like she had everything setup correctly. What could she have done any better? I didn't hear anyone say "if she had checked (blah) then she would have found it to be faulty". Sounds like she decked and after looking over everything it all looked fixed, intact, and properly slung. In other words, nobody knows why she fell???? Just wondering what everyone else does to try to prevent these "magic" failures from happening.

I might not be able to make thurs, but if the other are ok with it go ahead and move it.

On our last drytooling night I tried yellow lens safety glasses. They would be perfect (durable and much improved visibility in the dark) except for what forrest_m points out: fogging! They hug your face a little more so they don't breath as well. I plan on adding some anti-fog shit and drilling some vent holes in 'em, but asside from this they seem to work well. And, I've seen Nolse's clear lense. It's big, but it looks bombproof. No venting issues here! But, don't you need a special helmet for them? Looks like your's mate together.

What about TNF packs? You are paying a premium for the name, but they seem to have some OK offerings in regards to features. Any opinions/experience with their tech packs?

...and in the educated US, it's only a little more than an hour.

[quoteIn "the lingo" it's called going to toshi station to pick up some power converters. May the KY be with you!

You could always hit up elliot on hood. Pretty much cooper spur ski area as far as you can drive, hike up to the glacier, and then hit up the ice lines to the south (cooper spur ridge) or the crevasses in the glacier itself. I've done this B4.... better than nuttin'.

Uhhhh.... Jan 3rd was a Monday, not a Thursday. I'm confused; if someone was signing up now, how many classes will they have missed?

cj - sent you a pm RE the shuksans.

Yeah, yeah. That Oleg has some good shit, eh. Went down smooth.... wish I could have hung around for more than the first couple of rounds. But... I ended up getting wrung out by double fisting beer and Captain Morgan's & Coke(-a-cola)..... hmmmmmmmm. Oleg - thanks for inviting me and the Mrs over. I'd like to come over again some time and try some more of your whacky Russain ways (vodka and pickles?????? who knew!).