Kevin_Matlock

plark - I'm thinking of going up sunshine this Saturday, the 23rd. Only slightly more technically demanding, but may very well rope up, so all things considered this would be a little safer (being roped and all)... also much less crowded. PM me if interested and I'll give you more details.

Divot - I'm down. Sunshine route (if I have to go up the south side ONE MORE TIME....), looking to head up Fri night/Sat morn. Check your PMs. Thatcher, I won't PM you, but let me know if you are interested, too. I have crevasse rescue training/exp in case you are wondering.

Hey Kevin! How are you doing buddy? Yo, what up homie.... PMs, check 'em!

Just as good (good enough), only cheaper... gri gri If you are worried about it not catching, throw in the occasional knot on the slack side. It's what I use with no complaints.

[sidebar] good luck finding a rental harness; a buddy of mine tried to locate one to no avail. just go buy a BD alpine bod... light, durable, and only 30 clams[/sidebar]

I agree on the leepers. I'm new to aid, but can say they are super easy to use and inspire confidence all the way.

Lake O???? Where's this (the wall) located?

Afternoon gets pretty soft and shit can start flying off onto your head. If you really don't mind the crowds (pretty much can't avoid them no matter WHEN you climb it!), better to stick with the early morning. Since it's your first time up you will want to hit the hogsback during the day light hours so you can see what you are doing. Generally speaking, from t-line it takes 4 or 5 hours to the hogsback. So, that said, maybe start at 1AM. Any earlier and you will risk getting off course in the dark (very difficult to do but still possible).

How can you make such a wild claim?!?!?! ....oh, THIS is how: famous people suck

No shit... on Friday I took my faulty BD headlamp in that I bought WAY BACK IN '02! The dood started looking up my purchase history was like "oh, you bought this on sale... I can only give you $33 credit on it". I thought there must have been some mistake so I quickly grabbed a new headlamp off the shelf, paid the couple bucks difference, and high tailed it outta there.

...or middle sister. Bachelor is also just a walkup.

Uh, yeah... The Eiger Sanction Clint... why???????

Quite correct, thanks for the clarity. This applies to NYLON ONLY. You should never knot spectra or dyneema. But, since I've never personally tested this theory, maybe someone braver than me should try it!

I'm headed up tonight so I'm not speaking from extremely recent experience, but it's pretty much just icy steps. I've seem info that the summit is suppose to be above freezing so that might make for some interesting crap falling. Be sure and hit it early. A decent amount of people rope up for the damn thing though... without pro... and setting WAY too much slack between them. If you rope up, short haul it so any falls can be arrested quickly. You don't want someone falling and then building up speed when they hit your end of the rope. It really doesn't warrant the rope anyway so lighten the pack and leave it at home.

(for the sake of newbs) tieing spectra or dyneema is a very bad thing. the material is slippery and will not hold the knot. using nylon webbing just isn't as strong. Besides, knots lower the breaking strength anyway. Best to do it the right way.

I took a couple of courses from Oregon Peak Adventures. Can't entirely endorse them though. If you are the slightest bit experienced, you will be bored too tears (I was anyway). If you are a complete newb you might find some of their stuff helpful. Nice enough staff, just seems more aimed at people with no prior experience. My .02

Screws are better on elliot since it's mostly hard pack. Flukes will do no good, but you can bang in pickets (and destroy the ends in the process). Could also dig a trench for an axe and do a dead man. Hogsback conditions vary from easy to icy depending on temps up high, but doubt it exceeds much more than 45 degrees.

Good job guys. Pics?

There is a theory that global warming could induce an ice age by halting northerly currents in the Pacific... Yeah, well we can certianly dream!

tyvek? the house wrap stuff? can't you get it at da' home depot?

How many showed last night? Sounded like several additional peeps were expecting to go and wondering where the hell you stuffed everyone. Prolly not going to be hard to outgrow that small stance. Any pics? We can dump the original plan of Wed, I don't have any reoccuring thing that keeps me from any one night so Tuesday or Thursday is ok. Tues might make more sense though for what Nolse said about sometimes heading out on a Thursday... but, makes no diff to me.

uhm.... decaf?

I've acutally been thinking of these guys. Did you buy retail, or did you get it through them direct (via their website)? Another post.... hmmmm, where is it..., oh here it is... ccw post ...really praises these guys. Sounds like they do customizations and are super easy to deal with and are very reasonably priced.

last week we were there until a little after 6:30, seems to me though that it would've gone as late as the last man standing.

I'm going to try and rearrange some shit and make it tomorrow instead of tonight.