Kevin_Matlock

check PM's

Hey, I'm interested, I'll shoot you a pm

Great TR and awesome pics! What a nice read and nice change of pace with your attitudes considering SOME of the other TRs around here! Good job.

Anybody got beta on the scramble route (suppose to be class 2/3-ish)? Wonder the mileage and if I should take up a non-climber friend. Sounds easy enough though and safe if I toss him on belay if need be.

I bet the alcohol dip is used more to remove "manufacturing goo" like oils and surface dirt... stuff of that nature. I wouldn't think that it would be as effective on "outdoor goo" (grit, dirt, vegetation, skin, blood, teeth... all the usual crap). Whatever the Metolius cleaning soap is appears to be active when you add it to the boiling water. Think scrubbing bubbles! Come to think of it, wonder how well boiling water by itself would work? You need something to actively remove the particulants.

'bout 15 bucks.

I just googled "3/64 swage", got lots of hits. Here's one - http://www.swage-ittools.com/page2.html

These guys have just about everything you'd need: Security Chain Co

Hardly a rock god so I want to do one of the lower grade, non-heroic routes on Ill-rock. Likely one of the south routes... anywhere from 5.easy to about 5.sorta-interesting from what I've read. Would like to do this tomorrow, Sat Aug 6, but could go on Sun if that works better for you. Have gear/wheels/motivation, just need the partner. PM me or post if interested.

Been to the butte much less often than I've gone to the bluff, but it IS a little quicker to get to (Bill, I feel your pain on the BeaverTown commute, I'm coming from Tualatin) and the TRs are much more plentiful and are way easier to set up, but it bothers me with all that crap there. Last time I was waiting at the bottom of one of the class 4's trying to leave and looked down; 6" from my foot was a needle. And I've almost put my forking hands right on a rubber. Sucks. And then Nolse... I read that your car got broken into. I can't afford one of the crackheads checking out all the goodies in my van. Broughton offers more peace of mind to me. Oh well, my own hang ups are my own hang ups. Thanks for your guys' points-O-view. We now return you to our regularly scheduled thread....

Guys, I feel compelled to ask... why Rocky, anyway? I mean, why the facination with the syringes, used condoms, broken glass, and traffic noise when 5 miles further out 84 there lies broughton (much cleaner, just as much climbing, etc). Not trying to invite thread creep by turing this into a "this crag Vs. that crag" spray, but it escapes me why the preference for going here. Is it just the central location? That would be a fair enough response, but I'm just wondering.

No shit. You're cheaping out by 13 bucks??? Fuck, I'll send you a check for the extra $$$ that your sorry ass can afford. I'll do this just so I don't have to step over your bloody corpse at the base of some wall because you didn't take care of your pro correctly. Kmart soap... choice of a new generation.

They can't be cleaned... simply mail them to me for proper disposal. Last year I used the metolius cam cleaning kit (less than $15 at rei) on my cams and some sticky binners. You put some sort of cleaning agent into boiling water and it fizzes. Work the device in the water. Crap comes out in droves (amazing how much was in there!). Once dry, put a little of the metolious wax-based lube on it and work it in. Done and done. Works really well!

Sunshine route on hood. Going up the 23rd. Interested?

plark - I'm thinking of going up sunshine this Saturday, the 23rd. Only slightly more technically demanding, but may very well rope up, so all things considered this would be a little safer (being roped and all)... also much less crowded. PM me if interested and I'll give you more details.

Divot - I'm down. Sunshine route (if I have to go up the south side ONE MORE TIME....), looking to head up Fri night/Sat morn. Check your PMs. Thatcher, I won't PM you, but let me know if you are interested, too. I have crevasse rescue training/exp in case you are wondering.

Hey Kevin! How are you doing buddy? Yo, what up homie.... PMs, check 'em!

Just as good (good enough), only cheaper... gri gri If you are worried about it not catching, throw in the occasional knot on the slack side. It's what I use with no complaints.

[sidebar] good luck finding a rental harness; a buddy of mine tried to locate one to no avail. just go buy a BD alpine bod... light, durable, and only 30 clams[/sidebar]

I agree on the leepers. I'm new to aid, but can say they are super easy to use and inspire confidence all the way.

Lake O???? Where's this (the wall) located?

Afternoon gets pretty soft and shit can start flying off onto your head. If you really don't mind the crowds (pretty much can't avoid them no matter WHEN you climb it!), better to stick with the early morning. Since it's your first time up you will want to hit the hogsback during the day light hours so you can see what you are doing. Generally speaking, from t-line it takes 4 or 5 hours to the hogsback. So, that said, maybe start at 1AM. Any earlier and you will risk getting off course in the dark (very difficult to do but still possible).

How can you make such a wild claim?!?!?! ....oh, THIS is how: famous people suck

No shit... on Friday I took my faulty BD headlamp in that I bought WAY BACK IN '02! The dood started looking up my purchase history was like "oh, you bought this on sale... I can only give you $33 credit on it". I thought there must have been some mistake so I quickly grabbed a new headlamp off the shelf, paid the couple bucks difference, and high tailed it outta there.

...or middle sister. Bachelor is also just a walkup.