powderhound

http://waynewallace.wordpress.com/2010/03/07/the-black-spider/ http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/946183/TR_FA_Black_Spider_Center_Drip#Post946183 http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/948207/1

My days of working the weekends and late late nights is coming to a close shortly. I know that I am getting stoked about getting my harness back on. Who wants to join me in a dance for the Black Spider to come into shape like it did last year....should be looking good here real soon if we can get some nice weather and stable snow:) I don't pray but would consider starting.

pics?

sick! Did your head get a worse beating from the ice or from Shannon?

http://joelandneilsclimbingblog.blogspot.com/ Shout out to my buddy Neil down tearing it up in Patagonia. Crazy to think that I took Neil on his first alpine climb not five or six years ago and now he has two FA's in Patagonia this season. Super proud.

no harness....i want to just boulder on the beach

Bailing on AK, going to the Caribbean for some sun, sand, bikini's, drinks, and sex. I want to also bring my shoes and maybe do some beach bouldering a day or two. Anybody got any beta for me? Personal experiences? Tips? Oh I will be going last week of May first week of April.

bump

Looking out from my cube the last couple days seems like some shit should be getting done....anybody got some pictures I can live vicariously through?

feeling an itch...must leave audit room

shorter falls generate more force. The most force is generated on a fall will about 3.5 feet of rope out from the last placement. longer falls have more rope for the force to disperse from. so it makes sense that a short fall would cause a screamer to activate but the longer falls I have seen on screamers haven't.

I second that for sure! I appreciate his dedication to keeping the rest of us all safe and alive.

sounds amazing, makes me wish I was in the bay to slay

I don't get why you have to be so doubtfull of my post. Just because you don't know every climber in the Portland area does not mean I am lying about my climbs. Or is it that I have to earn my rank on this site? No wonder it took me seven years to finally register as alot of the people on this site come of off as total ass holes. Cheers Todd Thanks for the praise Dave and Bill. dude these same assholes you speak off sometime go through a lot of trouble to create an alternate identity...

I have been curious about this as well

please do!

Glad Home Feild Advantage came in this year, with all that ice on it and our bolts next to the ice make us look like wussies.

i have to work during the day.....anyone want to get crazy and try this thing tonight, if it doesnt fall down today?

anyone climb anything out there recently?

of ice? sure..

I have thursday off.....anyone want to go look and see if we can climb some virgin ice?

Any conditions update? I am thinking of heading up there tonight. Road conditions? Did the ice melt away this last couple days? Much appreciated!

glad you two came back safe....thanks for the update and photos. I really want to climb lines to the left of John and AlpineDave line, but that avy there it sketch. what size screw did he fall on? screamer or no?

WA or OR?

Trip: Strobach - FA: The Responsible Ladies Man WI5 Date: 12/5/2010 Trip Report: Left PDX at 9pm and headed to strobach friday night with skander, found FS rd 1202 beat down by plenty of hunters and other wander's, so I risked it and drove the jetta wagon up the road. Parked at the 2nd meadow and slept for a couple hours. used slow shoes to approach, but didnt sink too much, only about 14in's of snow. came to the motherlode to find things thin but still forming. dropline through tower of power the routes lookers left of dropline until separation gully were in but thin...so I guess in is subjective to some. I had never been over to primus suckus so I walked that way. first on the left looked the most in of any of the routes. unholy baptism's first pitch was a cool looking thin sheet of ice. we climbed this: which is am pretty sure is a FA. now maybe known as "the responsible ladies man" P1: Ascend body length pillar starting in lower left corner of picture to smear in corner to the ledge WI3+ M4 30M, stubbies, BD #3 pecker, #3 & #.75 BD camalot for pro. could place more in crack left of smear. Walk on ledge sixty feet to second pitch. Good yellow alien and #1 pecker for anchor just right of 2nd pitch ice. Pitch 2: 46M WI5 I recommend not toping out. Having Fun:) back in portland by 10pm for a date Gear Notes: slow shoes, compass, whiskey, herb like fruit, next time bring more than nine screws. Approach Notes: Look in the guide